|03-14-2013 02:33 AM|
OK cool, I'll look into it
I'm glad this board has been so helpful,will note this as well
don't plan to,looking to take care of everything else that was put aside
thanks again,now to just sell my extra parts to pay for the much needed things
|03-14-2013 01:25 AM|
Glad you are making progress. It's not glamorous work but it is required to have a reliable car. All this hard work is why you check cabling at every oil change. You catch the first signs of corrosion before you have to replace cables.
Don't stop just because it's starting to run, bring all the wires/connections up to snuff.
|03-14-2013 01:23 AM|
|Red01Focus||also since it's been awhile since i drove the focus i noticed when i start it up the idle is above 1000 but flutters between that and the first mark above it after a minute the flutter decreased and sat above 1k,then after 2 minutes it was at 1k then five minutes it flutter between 1k and the line below it 8 mins it slowed and about 10 mins it sat above the first line below 1k, so curious is that normal? or something i need to track down|
|03-13-2013 04:42 PM|
well she turned over hoping the issue was just poor connections,letting her run for a bit,plan on redoing the wiring for the third brake light later this week. i noticed the idle isn't as rough..not sure if it was bad gas or poor connections but my license plate and frame no longer rattle lol. also exhaust still has moisture but not as bad as the first start but i added dry gas
plan on changing spark plugs and oil asap new valve cover and gasket as well
any other must do's since she sat for so long?
|03-13-2013 04:13 PM|
|Red01Focus||redid the cleaning of the wires scrubbed them longer and did it 3 times,cables are much cleaner no white residue picked up some dielectric grease,also how does one go about fixing the poor crimp job? i plan on picking up new fasteners to replace the rusty one's asap|
|03-08-2013 05:23 PM|
|03-08-2013 05:21 PM|
Photo 6 yeah i did the baking soda and water trick but didn't clean it up so well, will redo it again(that's the white powder) but I'm thinking I'll go with your plan to just replace it all.
Photo 7&8 yeah i never messed with them I'm thinking they were worked on when the shop redid the license plate lights but the larger cable is attached to the main cable so it would be replaced when the main cable is
Photo 9&10 I will check out the cable more to see if it needs replaced
so i will pick up the grease and new hardware, i know the cables were replaced when the starter was put in but as you said everything was done poorly so time to take care of that. again you have been very helpful milton it's greatly appreciated and bobby i will take a look tomorrow and let you know what i find out
|03-08-2013 01:38 PM|
After looking over your photos, you appear to need some additional work.
PHOTOS 1, 2, 3 & 4:
Very poor job of making connections.
ACTIONS: I would not worry about modding your 3rd taillight right now. Just restore it to the stock configuration. After you get it running then work on the mods.
A) The entire connector seems to coated in some with powder.
B) The top cable: connector poorly crimped
C) Center Cable: The clamp plate is coated in white powder which appears to extend into the inside of the cable.
D) Bottom Cable: Poor crimp connection and powder appears to extend into the inside of the cable.
ACTIONS: Replace all 3 cables and the negative battery cable connector. When you reconnect the new cable to neg battery post use dielectric grease. Also use dielectric grease at the connection point on the other ends of the cables.
A) One cable looks recently cleaned and reattached with a rusty fastener.
B) The other cable has not had and maintenance and is attached with a rusty fastener.
1) I assume that the bigger cable runs to the battery and will be replaced in photo 6 action items. When you install the replacement use a new fastener and dielectric grease.
2) Not sure if the smaller cable will be replaced in photo 6 action items. The connection needs to be cleaned as the bigger cable is, then attached using a new fastener and dielectric grease.
I see traces of green corrosion and white powder. Not sure if I see traces of rust or not.
1) Whether or not the cables need replacing depends on whether or not the corrosion extends underneath the insulation. If it does then replace the cables. Be very critical in your assessment.
2) When you reconnect the cables (both ends) you want everything bright & shinny, Use dielectric grease & no rusty fasteners.
|03-08-2013 08:07 AM|
Check that the gear selector when attempting to start the engine....wiggle, etc., maybe the neutral safety switch.....But, I would also check these relays and fuses:
Under hood Central Junction Box;
R1-Ignition.....any one of these could cause the issues you're having with faulty wiring to the relay in the CJB -or- a bad relay itself.
1- 40A....main power supply to the electrical system
7- 40A.... same as above
8- 30A...ignition switch, starter
10- 10A (2.0L) Battery Voltage Sensor......hey, that's what it says....
Check these out, if you already haven't. With the relays I would swap them around with one of the same type (pin). Also, check for voltage at R17 & R1, as well as ground. These relays should have power directly from the battery at ALL times. Usually though, the relay itself has corrosion inside.....another thing is when cranking....they will be unusally hot... Do the ford wiggle test! KOEO, KOER..blah, blah.
|03-07-2013 11:04 PM|
|Red01Focus||atx for now|
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