|05-20-2015 09:14 AM|
Is the head of the piston beat up with dents?
If not was engine repaired for this before?
Where is the crack located on the piston?
Skirts (the sides) can crack just from running too loose, the flopping about hammers on them to crack. Someone doing an earlier rework could possibly hone a bore too much to make it loose and the crack then. Maybe even left a cracked one in there. People do silly things all the time.
|05-19-2015 05:45 PM|
|Gearhead068||I was wondering I have somewhat of the same problem but the seat didn't drop out of the head but yet the piston is cracked on #1 what could have cause that|
|06-09-2013 04:12 PM|
What size are the studs for the exhaust manifold to cylinder head and where can one get them?
I'm in the middle of replacing the cylinder head/piston/rod due to a dropped seat.
|06-06-2013 12:42 AM|
It works, half the time I have no ring compressor either, it gets interesting trying to get pairs in cylinder at same time on like an inline four bike. But I get it done and never have broken a ring ever.
But then I assemble ATX clutch packs without any of the special tools to install pistons too. Gotta be careful and inventive.
|06-04-2013 08:01 PM|
It's probably frowned upon, but I always installed new pistons in lawn mower engines by hand. I quickly found that was not going to be a simple task on the focus, and didn't wanna drive to the store for a ring compressor. I took the old timing belt and a pair of vice-grips, and the combination worked quite nicely!
Not trying to thread-jack. It's mildly on-topic and I thought it might be a helpful hint.
|06-03-2013 09:17 PM|
|amc49||There you go, be inventive, or how to cure practically anything.|
|06-03-2013 10:44 AM|
|ImBillT||Wrapped plastic trashbags around the crank so I could wash the cylinders out without washing grit all over it.|
|06-02-2013 05:22 AM|
|amc49||Put a towel over the crank. I'd even consider not honing if motor is old especially if you still have honing mark left. Maybe 400 sandpaper taken to bore. Take a razor blade and carefully scrape the carbon ring at top of cylinder off and often no need to remove ridge, these motors wear very little. Once cap is off rod, tap on rod bolt to move rod up a bit and then use upside down hammer handle located in the middle of the rod curve for bearing to fully remove piston/rod. Depending on how hard it is to get piston out you don't want to be pushing on bolts by then, you can knock the bolt out and don't need to do that.|
|06-01-2013 06:41 PM|
|ImBillT||Are you guys honing the cylinder with crank still in it?|
|05-27-2013 06:50 PM|
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