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Thread: Yet another 2012 SE Sport audio upgrade Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-18-2014 10:42 PM
Andy2002a
Quote:
Originally Posted by KK_SilverDevil_712 View Post
i need help with this... i have pulled the panel apart, and i dont know which cable to splice for the LEFT AND RIGHT AUDIO CAbLES.. what color? how bout my blue signal cable? do i even need it anymore since i am using the stock unit?
This is from my sub woofer install



This is the pinout for the plug on the back of the radio



IF you're installing a sub you can connect the amplifier's blue signal cable to F37(sunroof) on the rear fuse box.
05-16-2014 05:55 PM
KK_SilverDevil_712 i need help with this... i have pulled the panel apart, and i dont know which cable to splice for the LEFT AND RIGHT AUDIO CAbLES.. what color? how bout my blue signal cable? do i even need it anymore since i am using the stock unit?
03-19-2014 12:09 PM
TrinidadJustin Hey OP and everyone else. I just needed slight clarification on tapping into the wire speakers. I have a RF X600.5 5 channel amp and LC2i. I wanted to know if the speaker level outputs from the LC2i are tapped into the same place as the speaker wires running from the amp. For example the left front negative on the wiring harness is the white wire. So do i tap the front left negative wire coming from the LC2i and the front left negative wire coming from the amp into the speaker harness white left front negative wire? Do i tap them in at the exact same position? or should i tap the LC2i slight above or below the tap for the speaker amp wire i.e tap in two different places on that same wire. Look at the two pictures below. Also since this is LC2i I know I will only be tapping into the front the speakers with it but I have the same 5 channel amp as OP so ill be tapping into all 8 wires for that correct?
05-10-2013 09:20 AM
asting
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcticGabe View Post
I just found this thread. Nice install. I've been contemplating very much the same thing.

One question, though. Do you have any details (and photos, hopefully) of where and how you installed your sub box? I've been looking for a good spot in the hatch area that doesn't take up too much cargo space and doesn't have to be removed to change the rear stop lamps.

Thanks much.
I'm pretty sure it's just freefloating. That's how I did mine. I used covered spade connectors on a piece of wire, so I can disconnect it as needed and throw it in the garage when I need the space. If you're trying to not take up space, your options are to either pull the spare and install there, try and custom build a side enclosure (like the stock sub), or just go modular and keep it small. An 8" sub would be pretty easy to do, and you can easily get them that need 1/3 ft^3. With some poly fill you could go even smaller, so we're talking a pretty small package when it's all said and done.
04-28-2013 02:55 PM
ArcticGabe I just found this thread. Nice install. I've been contemplating very much the same thing.

One question, though. Do you have any details (and photos, hopefully) of where and how you installed your sub box? I've been looking for a good spot in the hatch area that doesn't take up too much cargo space and doesn't have to be removed to change the rear stop lamps.

Thanks much.
04-25-2013 09:54 AM
asting Hey HatWobble.
You did end up splicing in near the head unit, and running the amplified wires back through the stock wiring, right? I just wanted to see if you had any issues regarding that as that's' what I plan to do.
I also must give you a warning for the interest of full disclosure: I copied your build.
I'm dynamating (well fatmating), have the same amp, sub, LOC and rear speakers. My front are the slightly larger Polk db6501s.
You picked some top notch stuff, and while I was seriously considering some boston's for the speakers, it seemed like you were paying more for the name at that point. Out of curiousity, what size is that enclosure? I built a downfiring enclosure with .55 cubic feet or so, then stapled in some polyfill.




Quote:
Originally Posted by mister_eff View Post
Oh I see. The wire that HatWobble mentions goes from the LOC to the amp, like you said. I thought he also had a wire going from the car to he LOC. Thanks for clearing that up.

My bad, HatWobble.
No problem at all, I have just scoured this thread as I'm doing my build as soon as the rest of my stuff shows up.
04-24-2013 05:40 PM
mister_eff
Quote:
Originally Posted by asting View Post
I don't think it does. Per a previous post (on page 2 or 3), the LOC uses the signal from the stock speakers to know when it powers on. It then can supply the remote power signal to an amp. So it goes from the LOC to the amp, and does not do anything with the car.

As soon as I get my fatmat and components in I'll be able to verify this though.
Oh I see. The wire that HatWobble mentions goes from the LOC to the amp, like you said. I thought he also had a wire going from the car to he LOC. Thanks for clearing that up.

My bad, HatWobble.
04-23-2013 10:37 PM
asting
Quote:
Originally Posted by mister_eff View Post
Sorry for my terrible wording. I mean, where did you connect that wire on the car side of things?
I don't think it does. Per a previous post (on page 2 or 3), the LOC uses the signal from the stock speakers to know when it powers on. It then can supply the remote power signal to an amp. So it goes from the LOC to the amp, and does not do anything with the car.

As soon as I get my fatmat and components in I'll be able to verify this though.
04-23-2013 10:11 PM
mister_eff
Quote:
Originally Posted by asting View Post
This connects to the Amp and tells it when to turn on and off.
Sorry for my terrible wording. I mean, where did you connect that wire on the car side of things?
04-23-2013 10:10 PM
asting
Quote:
Originally Posted by mister_eff View Post
HatWobble,

What wire did you hook up the "remote on" wire from the LC6i to? Do you have a picture of that? Is it part of the same head-unit wiring harness?

Thanks!
This connects to the Amp and tells it when to turn on and off.
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