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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-18-2016 01:59 PM
rebelx
Quote:
Originally Posted by MHartfield View Post
I would find a new mechanic, quickly. Techron does very little, and you can add a quart of fuel cleaner once a year that does a better job at a lot less price. I put 350,000 miles on my Dodge Neon, and now 113,000+ miles on my Focus with probably 95% Costco gas. Never ANY problem with the injectors and fuel system. I've used Chevron several times to test it... no difference in MPG between Costco & Chevron. Now, Arco is a different story. I've never put it in my Focus, and never will. With my Neon, the Arco MPG was lower, and the one time I climbed a 7% grade with it, there was a little roughness in the engine and a loss of 2-3 MPH. Maybe it's become better in the 10 years or so I've stayed away from it.
Forgot to mention, this was at my Ford dealership! It wasn't at some independent mechanic.

We used to use Arco way back in the day and definitely had loss of MPG. I can't comment on engine power, but there was a definite reduction in MPG. This was also about 7-8 years ago.
07-18-2016 01:56 PM
MHartfield
Quote:
Originally Posted by rebelx View Post
At my recent oil change last week, the tech that did intake asked me if I filled up with Chevron. I responded that I probably do 90-10 Costco/Chevron. He said that Chevron keeps the engine the cleanest and that Costco was "basically like Arco." For those that don't have an Arco nearby, it's reputed as a lower level fuel (although has been Top Tier status for about a year now--I had no idea!).
I would find a new mechanic, quickly. Techron does very little, and you can add a quart of fuel cleaner once a year that does a better job at a lot less price. I put 350,000 miles on my Dodge Neon, and now 113,000+ miles on my Focus with probably 95% Costco gas. Never ANY problem with the injectors and fuel system. I used Chevron for a while when a client had the $0.20 Vons discount...(even with the discount, it wasn't less expensive than Costco but more convenient)... no difference in MPG between Costco & Chevron. Now, Arco is a different story. I've never put it in my Focus, and never will. With my Neon, the Arco MPG was lower, and the one time I climbed a 7% grade with it, there was a little roughness in the engine and a loss of 2-3 MPH. Maybe it's become better in the 10 years or so I've stayed away from it.
07-18-2016 01:44 PM
rebelx At my recent oil change last week, the tech that did intake asked me if I filled up with Chevron. I responded that I probably do 90-10 Costco/Chevron. He said that Chevron keeps the engine the cleanest and that Costco was "basically like Arco." For those that don't have an Arco nearby, it's reputed as a lower level fuel (although has been Top Tier status for about a year now--I had no idea!).

He then tried to sell me the 30k service (which includes a bunch of stuff not in the user manual) and a fuel injection cleaning service because I don't use Chevron all the time.

Not related to an oil change directly, but close enough since I was in there for an oil change.

Oddly enough, after my oil change, I've gotten used to feeling the car almost glide when accelerating. This feeling probably lasts a couple days to a week maximum. Everything just feels smoother. I didn't get that feeling when I had my oil changed last week, although my change interval was shorter than my previous few changes (around 7500-8000 instead of 9500m).
07-18-2016 11:34 AM
Elizabeth Ahhhhh....
Changed my oil last night. I feel SO much better now.
Mobil One 'Extended Performance' 5w30 and a Motorcraft FL400 filter.

Reset the oil gizmo, and feeling good.
(5,100 miles/8 months..on the old oil)
07-13-2016 07:30 AM
stefcio007 I just bought a Motorcraft Oil filter for AUD$14 (about USD$10.68 right now).
10L of Oil is around AUD$100, I wait till it is on sale anyway. Right now my other local Auto store has 20% off everything for RACV members (insurance company).

With my VW the only time I ever went a mechanic is if I needed work that would take me ages or I don't have the tools to do. They were top guys and charged reasonable prices and same day service, only used OEM parts.

I think everyone who has time should learn how to do an oil change themselves. I just drive my front end up on some wooden blocks and squeeze under the car and do the change.
07-11-2016 02:56 PM
rczrider
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferret15 View Post
Idk man, I just buy mobile one with a rebate and its like $25/change which I do either 2 times a year or 10k miles. If I spend $15 on a conventional change i'd have to do it atleast 4 times a year. So idk what kind deals your really getting but i'd rather run full synthetic in my car. If your putting on more than 10k miles every 6 months i wouldn't hesitate to do an oil change at that high of mileage with Mobile 1 , there are guys pushing past 10,000 miles and having the oil tested and its coming back as used, but still good.

That being said, I've found I can price out the whole change at less $10 if were looking at bottom dollar/change spent.
Yep. Rebates on Mobil 1 are pretty regular and I don't think I've paid more than $10 for 5 quarts since I bought the Focus 2 years ago. I've never paid more than $5 for a Purolator PureONE filter. I pay my local shop $20 to do the change since they're right next to work and it's a simple matter to drop off my car and walk to work.

$35 twice a year with quality parts and no work on my part is well worth it. A variety of shops will have a $20 conventional oil change at any given time, but as you noted, I'd have to do it more often. And I'm not sure I trust those quick lube places.
06-20-2016 03:27 AM
ferret15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ajpaoluccii View Post
Great write up sir
I take a lot of cars to get their oil changed and it usually cheaper than what I pay for in the store. A long with a cheaper price. It's all personal preference.
Idk man, I just buy mobile one with a rebate and its like $25/change which I do either 2 times a year or 10k miles. If I spend $15 on a conventional change i'd have to do it atleast 4 times a year. So idk what kind deals your really getting but i'd rather run full synthetic in my car. If your putting on more than 10k miles every 6 months i wouldn't hesitate to do an oil change at that high of mileage with Mobile 1 , there are guys pushing past 10,000 miles and having the oil tested and its coming back as used, but still good.

That being said, I've found I can price out the whole change at less $10 if were looking at bottom dollar/change spent.
06-19-2016 10:36 PM
Ajpaoluccii
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2012sel View Post
I always drain first, just in case a full oil pan would make a bunch of oil come out of the filter hole. Probably just a habit.

I don't think it's necessary to rev, but shouldn't hurt as long as you allow enough time for the oil to get up to pressure before you do. As for how long to check for a leak, at least 1 minute.

I think I'll preload next time and see if the initial engine noise is not so loud. This time I didn't preload and was a little uncomfortable at how much noise the engine made before the oil filled the engine. Try it both ways and do what you like.
EDIT: Next time I'm going to crank the engine for a few seconds with the accelerator floored. Gas is shut off when you do this but the oil pump should fill the filter.

Keep your receipts and record each oil change in a log. You should be fine.

Anybody else have an opinion on the questions? Please share and explain why. Thanks.
Great write up sir

I used to change my own oil on my 2013 focus, and recently I got a job at a rental car company. I take a lot of cars to get their oil changed and it usually cheaper than what I pay for in the store. It definitely surprised me because the only reason I changed my oil myself was because I thought I was saving money. Not only did I have to get dirty I was also paying more. I have become very good friends with the fellows at my local express oil change, and they take very good care of my car. A long with a cheaper price. It's all personal preference.
05-11-2016 09:19 PM
sailor However you typed that, it's almost totally impossible to understand.

Jacking from the front of most Focus models folks use the rear motor mount area of the crossbar as that was listed as a jacking point. Since it's off center, the front won't lift evenly and you need to carefully let it down on your jack stands set at the same height to level it & make it secure.

DO make sure wheels at the rear have the brake set and are chocked, assuming you are jacking on concrete so the jack can move on the floor as you lift the car.

Jacking when the jack sinks in & won't move is more hazardous, as the car needs to roll on it's wheels to stay on the jack saddle properly.

I'm assuming a typical floor jack from your description.

If you jack the front with that offset position and don't have the rear wheels locked in position, it can be a hazard because a jack has little strength against sideways movement. Small or cheap ones can collapse sideways as the car moves, so you need to watch out for that VERY closely if jacking so the rear wheels roll instead of the jack moving on the floor. Obviously NOT a recommended method.
05-11-2016 09:03 PM
okaythen my floor jack the front right wheel is higher so it is off the ground some. when I am using the floor jack since all the weight are in the front from the car, the front is leveled but left right wheel will be in the air. so when I am pumping it it will move to the right a little bit. is this normal or floor jack suppose to be very stable. well I used some painters tape to make both front wheels same height, now it seems to move forward some when I am pumping it, I guess rear wheels are off in the air some. don't use it get a new one? (I think it just moves to the front/right then moves back since it's not leveled)

the floor jack is craftsman 50523, got many good reviews in different sites maybe I got a crappy one.
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