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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-04-2016 04:06 PM
mcotton Just wanted to post up my Gentex 50-genk80a that was just installed.

Now to find the next thing to do.........
01-19-2016 04:10 PM
gerolymatos Thanks for your reply but I found Fuse 85 that works. This fuse powers off immediately when engine off.
01-19-2016 02:52 AM
Slicknick Tap into something like power mirrors.
01-18-2016 08:32 PM
gerolymatos I have a 2013 SE and I'm trying to find a switched fuse under the glove box. Which one can I use for a Add-A-FUSE? Id like to make sure my mirror turns off when I turn my car off. Anyone please help!
02-09-2014 02:38 PM
LMacNeill Ok... Silly question... I can't figure out how to get the old mirror off the mount? Thought there'd be a Torx screw or something, but there's nothing there. Looks like there's a plastic cover over where a Torx screw should be, but I can't seem to pry that off...

Any tips?

EDIT: Ok, I got the old mirror off... CAREFULLY slide a flathead screwdriver into the slot at the bottom of the holder (you can't see it unless you crane your neck and look up at it from the bottom of the dashboard) then GENTLY pry down with the screwdriver and it will slowly pop off...

Now how do I get the "roof console" out? You know, the thing that has the sunglasses-holder and the buttons for the interior-lights/ambient-lights/moon-roof? A previous post here made it sound so easy -- stick a screwdriver into the holes on either side of the button that releases the sunglasses-holder, and it't pops right off... Well... The screwdriver just slides right back and does nothing. No clips to catch, or so it would seem... What's the trick that I'm missing here?

EDIT2: Oh, never-mind -- I'm an idiot. He said go STRAIGHT back through those holes -- I was going at an angle. Straight back, and it's just barely in there, and the clips pop loose. Ok. :-)

EDIT3: Done! And it works, too! Yay!
02-07-2014 08:35 AM
Originally Posted by dbsimms63 View Post
I couldn't back probe my connection, my probes were too thick...
I have found that T-pins or even paper-clips can be useful in back-probing connections when the multimeter leads are too thick to fit in there. Gotta be careful when using the T-pins especially, as they're sharp enough to tear thru the wiring insulation, but I've never had major problems using either T-pins or paperclips to back-probe things. But maybe I've just been lucky. :-)
02-07-2014 08:28 AM
Originally Posted by garyd9 View Post
On my job2 2013 Ti, I couldn't find a harness/plug in the headliner for an auto-dimming mirror.

My Gentex autodimming mirror (with homelink) had three wires: ground, constant 12v (homelink) and ACC (ignition) 12v. I was able to wire all three into the moonroof MOTOR harness.

If you pull out the plastic upper console (that contains the sunglass holder, moonroof switch, etc), and look up into the roof (assuming you have a moonroof), you should see a gray connector that plugs in facing the passenger side of the car.

The BLACK wire (heavier gauge, thin white stripe) is ground.

The white wire (thinner gauge) is accessory power and turns off immediately with ignition.

In one corner of the connector, there's a heavier gauge orange wire (forget the stripe and I didn't get photos) that's constant power.


Get a cheap multimeter... you shouldn't be messing with wires without one. Learn how to check for 11-15 volts DC. Test everything you read on these websites. Don't tap wires unless you've seen for yourself what they do.

If you don't have a moonroof, It's possible you still have the harness and plug. Check and see... if you do, it's a great source for the mirror.
Thanks so much for posting this!! Because of your post, I just ordered me a Gentex GENK40A mirror (auto-dimming, Homelink, but no compass -- who needs that when you've got Nav on the big screen, plus the compass on the small LCD screen in the instrument panel?)

I had gone to my Ford dealer to see if I could get an OEM electrochromic mirror installed, and I don't think the service guy knew what he was talking about. He said the mirror itself was $200, but that there was some kind of "control module" needed that would be an additional $200 or $300 (he didn't know exactly) and then all kinds of wiring and labor that would cost $900 more. So final price was around $1400 or $1500!! Totally crazy. His insistence on that "special control module" really threw me for a loop -- I thought maybe there was some high-voltage transformer or something that had to be installed to make it work (kind of like HID headlights, you know?)

So glad to hear about your experience with this -- I have a moonroof in my 2014 Titanium, and will tap into those wires. Thanks for making it so much easier than it otherwise would've been!
02-02-2014 12:42 PM
helomech I was considering an auto-dimming mirror, but recently had my rear windows tinted (20%) and decided against it.

I realized that my rear window tint provides 3/4 of the same effect of an auto-dimming mirror during night driving. I also like that I can still flip up the standard mirror when I need extra "dimming," for those times when a lifted HID equipped truck is riding my tail.

You might rethink an auto-dimming mirror if you plan on getting aftermarket tint installed. I had the combo on my old 3 series, and it resulted in too much dimming. Of course, the auto-dimming mirror gives the cars an upscale appearance, so if that's your goal, then ignore this tip.
01-30-2014 03:23 PM
Originally Posted by SilverPony2001 View Post
For those that have installed an auto dimming mirror, does the illumination of the buttons on the mirror match the color of the interior illumination?
On mine the buttons aren't illuminated. There's a dim green light when it's on and when I press a homelink button it flashes bright red.
01-28-2014 10:18 AM
SilverPony2001 For those that have installed an auto dimming mirror, does the illumination of the buttons on the mirror match the color of the interior illumination?
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