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Thread: How-To flush ATX fluid and change filter Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-28-2014 10:14 AM
whynotthinkwhynot I think somewhere in there I recommended the Permatex kit because the rubber gasket has adhesive on it.
09-28-2014 04:39 AM
60DRB Yes, I think I read somewhere in all the posts that the torque is 60 inch lbs. Thanks. I showed him how to use the TQ wrench (I have inch lb and foot lb versions) when he learned how to change the spark plugs a month ago. The old fluid was very dark, but the magnet only had the normal goop on it. I was kind of surprised how easy the pan came off-there was a very small amount of gray sealant on it. We used the rubber gasket that came with the filter. I still have sealant on hand if the gasket doesn't hold up. Located the drain kit at the driver side forward corner, clear of wires.

Replaced a measured 3 qts and 6 oz of fluid after the pan drop. Shows at just over the minimum level after a 1/2 mile quick drive. We'll recheck after a couple days.
09-27-2014 05:20 PM
Marde ^^ You can add this bit of info into your lesson:
Before I did mine, I was having a hard time finding the torque spec on the pan bolts. Pretty sure I read this entire thread and other threads too. First post in this thread said 5 ft lbs, but I was looking for verification. What I found or settled on was 60 to 70 inch pounds, so it is equal to what the OP said. Auto Zone had an inch-pound torque wrench in their free tool loan program.
09-27-2014 02:26 PM
60DRB I'll be showing/teaching my grandson how to drop the pan (and install a drain plug kit) and change the filter and partial fluid change this evening.
04-18-2014 08:43 AM
frednumber15 I'd do a full trans flush or at least drop and clean the pan and put in a new Ford filter. Try to find the rubber gasket for the pan? I'd use a synth fluid...Mobile or Redline and the right bottle of Lubegard additive (used by the pros). The synth and Lubegard will cost a bit...but not nearly as much as a trans rebuild.

Ironically...I have the same year and mileage car. I flushed the trans 2-3 years ago in fear of the same shifting issue you have.

The oil light is engine oil pressure...keep the level up and check viscosity? If it uses some oil...up the viscosity?

Check under the hood for a sticker showing the t-belt has been changed?

Originally Posted by Jason1906709 View Post
well this will be my first post here... i have just bought a 00 ZX3 everything seems well but oil light flashes sometimes? i check fluid and seems normal maybe im getting something from the filter of loss of pressure? also this is a great guide 120k on motor and tranny and deff replacing tranny fluid a little slip going into 3rd (auto = hate it but have to deal with it) would you say any other products to put in like LUCUS? or just all tranny fluid?
04-17-2014 11:21 PM
ProdigyRacingLA great read! I feel confident giving it a go now.

Nice Job!
09-18-2013 05:22 PM
CJohn364 I've been meaning to do this.
09-18-2013 02:01 AM
Originally Posted by whynotthinkwhynot View Post
Its the same AT as the 01 to '11, but in 03 it was beefed up for the more torquey Duratec engines, and earlier Zetec bolt patterns will not fit Duratec bolt patterns. The internals of the transmission cases are the same
Gear ratios are different for the '03-'04 2.3L engined cars. So one has to be careful when looking for a replacement - they are often advertised as coming from "PZEV VIN Z" cars.
09-17-2013 10:52 PM
BillLamm The thread lives... this was very helpful to me this past weekend

I found that disconnecting the hose at the transmission worked better then at the radiator.. the fluid comes out of the radiator..

Thanks for all the info
03-19-2013 01:59 PM
RallieConGoggle Anyone know the I.D. (Inner Diameter) of those extension tubes that he used?
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