|02-01-2013 07:14 PM|
|bringler26||Good info. I think my battery is 4 years old. The alternator could be going. I'm fairly certain its the original. Showed 14.8v|
|02-01-2013 06:49 PM|
Brett, my 08 E-150 just had an alternator rebuilt. 1 of my diodes was bad & was draining my battery very slowly. It died earlier in the week & had to jump it (left my 4 ways on for an hour & a half, my fault) & i put it on my battery tender over night & is usually green in a few hours. It was yellow (charging) when i went it to start it. It started right up, but i went later in the day to a place that rebuilds alternators & they did a test. It passed the load test running & right after running. He went & grabbed the diode tester & it failed. He said it was quite common & could rebuild it within a day.
Got it installed & my scangauge showed my alternator was putting out 14.4 volts & 14.2 volts with my hi-beams, 4 ways, led flashers, defrost & blower on high.
My battery is 2 1/2 years old & i think it's 850 cca. I'm not sure, but till this past week, i really haven't had any issues.
|01-31-2013 11:53 PM|
|01-31-2013 11:10 PM|
|Squareleft||Parasitic draw test is the only way to find out how many milliamps are being used like jetrinka said. i think the acceptable amount of draw is 50-ish milliamps. if a relay is active you'll see a serious increase in milliamps. in the hundreds which is highly unacceptable. if you see that it is reading high after letting the car sit for 10 minutes to let the computers rest, then my suggestion is to start pulling relays to fine point the area. youll need an ETM to trace it back.|
|01-31-2013 10:41 PM|
That's my thought too. It is four years old with a ton of start stops. It just crapped out with zero warning. First time that's happened to me.
Thanks for the tip on draw. I'm not much of an electrical guy. I usually try to avoid things that involve it at all cists
|01-31-2013 10:35 PM|
To test for a draw you need to properly set up your meter to measure amperage, not voltage. Disconnect the negative cable and put one probe on the negative post and the other on the negative cable and this will give you a readout of how many amps the car is pulling. Use alligator clips and then let the car sit there a while to let all the modules go to sleep. Ensure the doors are all closed and the key is out of the car.
However your issue just sounds like a bad battery. The fact that the voltage is visibly falling while the battery is out of the car means its just unable to hold a charge.
|01-31-2013 10:30 PM|
|bringler26||So I charged the battery with a charger up to 12v. I unplugged it and stuck on my voltmeter. It drops voltage at .01 a second... disconnected the batter from the car and it still drops voltage but much more slowly. I think the battery is bad amongst something in my car drawing power off of it. I hooked back up and it no longer dropped outrageously fast. Further testing will have to be done later.|
|01-31-2013 05:52 PM|
|bringler26||Nope at charging it shows 14.8 volts. I may have to go the route of fuse pulling and checking. Battery is two years old and this problem just started. The car usually sits two to 3 months due to its other issues. ( clogged cat, terrible idle, no winter tires. )|
|01-31-2013 05:27 PM|
|matmatician||Get your alternator tested ASAP. It's probably in the way out. Mine just died in my 06 ZX4, they may be approaching end of life.|
|01-31-2013 04:02 PM|
|pasta||how old is battery|
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