|01-30-2013 04:52 PM|
I say go ahead and wet sand with water until at least 400 grit, then switch to solvent to wet the sandpaper.
Eastwood makes some polished metal clearcoat products, and a bunch of other stuff you might find useful on this project.
|01-30-2013 04:20 PM|
I wish I had seen that before I actually wet sanded it. It looked amazing but I could see the rust forming before my eyes after I dried it. I had to dry it and clear coat it immediately to stop it from rusting out any more. I'm going it give it a few days outside to see if the rust stops, but I have a feeling I'm going to have to start the whole process again, although the small rust swirls look kinda cool for the rat bike look I'm going for.
I have the feeling I will have to sand it all over again in a few days while I'm working on mounting the engine to the frame. BOOOOO
|01-29-2013 10:04 PM|
Bare metals, do not 'wet sand'.
The minerals in the water will rust/oxidize the surface faster. That means you'll have to sand the rust away repetitively. Dry sand only or use alcohol or mineral spirits as a wetting agent.
100 grit is pretty course. Unfortunately you'll have to work up to ~500 grit before you can use any type of rubbing compounds to smooth it further W/O the use of paper.
If you know what kind of finish you're looking for I can assist you further. Steel is very easy to mirror polish or get most any finish in-between.
|01-29-2013 03:01 AM|
|_fifth_||Thanks for all the help man! I'll for sure post up pictures when it's coming together more like once I get the engine and all that jazz on there.|
|01-28-2013 09:37 PM|
Way to go man! Personally I've always loved the rat rod looks. At a car show in Galveston I've seen a 35 ford, or some thing like that. Rusted, had a guitar as a shifter, skinny tall tires on the back. Even the engine, and headers were rusted. It was sick as hell!
I'm glad we could help. If you need any thing else feel free to PM me.
|01-27-2013 10:09 PM|
Thanks for the help guys! I'm trying to do it all on my own, it seems to be cheaper that way and I'm learning a whole lot that way as well. I guess I will try to roll the bigger dents out from the inside or something and if that doesn't work take it somewhere. I'm not completely set on making it perfect since the final outcome I want the bike to look like is ratty as hell. I still want it to look nice though if that makes sense.
Here's what I have so far, started with a frame that has been passed through multiple people in our local moped gang who have tried to restore it but haven't been able to. I spent a week sanding and bondoing the frame then sanding and primering it and it currently has it's first coat of matte black paint on it, soon to be clear coated.
Here's what I'm going for, although it will be quite different when I'm all done since my frame is hard-tailed with no shocks or swingarms.
And if you're interested, here's my other bike:
|01-27-2013 09:44 PM|
For the dents you might try paintless dent repair. If they can get inside they may be able to work the dents out.
They will take a look at it and tell you up front if it can be done.
|01-27-2013 08:58 PM|
I scratched up one of my stockers. The metal cover that's on the stock lug nuts was stripped, and I had to chisel it off to get to the actual steel nut.
|01-27-2013 08:47 PM|
|UnbridledCarnage||what he said on polishing the tank karyn. i polished the lip on my 10 holes with that method. just MAKE SURE YOU WET SAND. and keep it wet. you'll notice the water turning white and that means your doing it right. alot of elbow grease. i jacked the front of the car up and had someone tap on the gas instead of working my way around the wheel. Good luck!|
|01-27-2013 08:41 PM|
|focusonthefocus19||By the way, I LOVE LOVE LOVE bare metal looks.|
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