|08-21-2016 10:47 PM|
|felixthecat||I'd make sure to replace it w/ the same new ford/motorcraft one. I wouldn't cheap out on a alt. A starter is different= easier to do,,,,,,,|
|08-21-2016 08:47 PM|
|scottthecartech||It's not an easy job but here's how I did it. https://youtu.be/wsPnbHnpM_8|
|07-28-2016 07:12 PM|
I wound up following most of this guide and coming out the bottom;
The hardest part wound up getting the new belt back on. Everything else was just doing a bunch of simple tasks until the job was done.
Basically, I did the following.
1: Put drivers side front tire on a ramp, chock a rear wheel, loosen passenger side front lug nuts, and jack passenger side up and put it on a stand.
2: Disconnect Negative battery cable.
3:Remove passenger side wheel, inner fender-well, and splash shield.
4: Remove belt and tensioner. I used a 13 mm wrench and a 14mm wrench hooked to the end of the 13 mm wrench to make a cheater to get the tension off the belt. My belt tensioner tool would not work here.
5:Remove nuts holding vented cover from front of alternator and remove the cover from below.
6:Loosen top alternator mount nut about 6 turns. Loosen bottom alternator mount nut and then remove the alternator mount nut with stud and the bolt.
7:Rotate alternator forward and up so the duct bolt is easy to get to. Remove duct bolt and duct.
8: Remove positive battery cable from alternator. Squeeze alternator harness connector and remove it from alternator.
9:Remove top alternator mount stud and lower alternator until it stops.
10: Remove rear motor mount "dog bone" front bolt.
11:Position alternator between axle and steering rack.
12: Push engine forward with elbow and slide alternator down and out.
|10-20-2014 09:01 PM|
Well, it's my turn.
Just put the 2nd alternator in 257k miles. Damn cheap shit just don't last, lol.
Normally, I just take it to the local alternator/starter rebuild shop. They install one for less than I can get it from the parts store. Of course it failed on Friday after the shop was closed, so.........
Anway, here's how I did it.
Began in the morning after the engine had cooled all night.
1. put the car on jack stand, remove passenger front wheel. This makes it MUCH eaiser to remove the cover and serpentine belt. And it's easier to see and get in and out from under the car.
2. disconnect the negative battery terminal.
3. move the lines out of the way as the op mentioned.
4. removed the top alternator mounting nut from under the hood
5. crawl under the car and remove the left mounting bolt
6. remove the nut from the right mounting rod, and take off the right side plastic cover
7. you should now be able to move the alternator around enough to get to the bolt of the left plastic cover with a ratchet and a socket. You can now remove the plastic cover without having to separate it.
8. remove the ring terminal and the plug.
9. remove the top heat shield
10. now take out the mounting stud with a 1/4 in socket and ratchet and wrestle the alternator out of the engine bay. (This is the fun part).
I was quite proud of myself that I was able to remove the snorkel piece as one without having to break the tabs. That lasted until it was time to put the alternator back in. I found it was not as easy to get the cover back on, so I decided to separate it. That's when the tabs broke, lol. Oh,well. It went back on just fine, anyway. Remember the snap tite plastic model kits that didn't require any glue? That must be who made these parts. One of the bolts to the heat shield snapped right off with 1/2 a turn.
Anyway, it was a genuine pita, but hopefully the next person won't have near the trouble after gathering the ideas from this thread. Good luck! You'll need it.
|09-02-2014 12:03 PM|
|09-01-2014 05:21 PM|
Also get the belt off first and lift the car just enough to work some of the bolts are just plain easier to get to from underneath. But unless you are really tall some of the stuff can be tough to see with the car up to high.
To do it again would probably only take an hour or two depending on how much I had to drink.
|09-01-2014 04:04 PM|
|09-01-2014 08:33 AM|
|whynotthinkwhynot||You can use the electronic odometer trick to monitor battery voltage while you drive. Key OFF, press and hold the trip odometer reset button, turn key ON. Continue to hold reset button until odometer reads [test], it will quickly switch to [gage] and the needles will jump around clicking wildly. This is normal. Release the odo reset button. Now each time you press and release the odometer reset button you'll scroll through 30 test functions. It will remain in test mode until you turn the key OFF. Find the test mode that reads [bat 12.1], once you start the engine, that will give you the alternator voltage.|
|08-31-2014 07:50 PM|
Ok, a formal update
First off...I can't believe I typed "hear" instead of "here" in my last post. Well we all make mistakes.
Now to the meat of the post
The '06 Focus is almost an apology for the engineering foibles of the '05 by the looks of it.
First thing they did is they moved the Power Steering reservoir to the front of the engine, so it's now out of the way.
No need to remove the coolant reservoir...though it wouldn't hurt to have some extra room to work, I never once thought "wow I wish this coolant reservoir was somewhere else.
Yes...disconnect the overflow valve. It's easy so don't fret it...Whynotthinkwhynot's instructions are exactly as it is....push the button on the clip in the back, slide the hose off, pull the connector and the valve slides off to the right. Plastic wire connectors are like kryptonite to me and these are not a problem in any way unless they are broken to begin with.
No need for that E8 Torx. Don't need to remove the studs. Takes a bit of finagling but there is enough room to slide the alternator back off the studs.
Ok my steps in order as best my memory serves.
Disconnect the battery
Remove the exhaust heat shields...both of them...you will need to disconnect the O2 sensors...or mass air flow or whatever those damn things are...hey come on now...I'd never even changed my own oil before I owned this car...forgiveness please :D...anyway, the lower heat shield is going to need to be bent and stuff to come out...I personally think putting these back on was THE hardest part of the job...oh yeah...we also tested the alternator before completely re-assembling them and exhaust was also really hot...but I digress.
Remove first set of bolts on the studs...these hold the plastic shroud on.
Remove the plastic air intake. Like Whynotthinkwhynot, i broke one of the clips and it still holds on fine (@Whynotthinkwhynot, did you break the driver side clip or the passenger side facing one? I broke the passenger side facing one).
Remove the bolt holding the driver's side plastic shroud thingy. Don't worry about getting it off yet, just get the bolt off and get it loose...like Whynot said, you will need to rotate it a bit to get to the nut holding the hot wire on.
Remove the hot wire, remove the 3 connector plastic plug as well.
Remove the second set of bolts which hold the bracket that holds the wires and the alternator to the studs.
Slide the bracket off the studs and get them wires outta da road. It's a bit tight, but it will come off without too much stress.
If you haven't raised the car yet, now's the time to do it...get under there and get that belt off the pulleys. There's that plastic thing you have to remove...it's two bolts as described, I question how important is really is to have..but it will keep things cleaner under there I'm sure.
While you're under there, there's a very long bolt that also holds the alternator at the bottom. Get that thing out as well.
At this point, you should be able to slide the alternator off the studs. On the '06, there is enough room to slide it off...getting it through everything is a little trickier but my no means hard. It's main difficulty is that there's some weight to it and leverage can be hard to come by to manoeuvre it through the tight space...but this is where taking the overflow valve off and the exhaust heat shields come in handy (the heat shield will cut and scrape you up unmercifully as well).
Tested the battery with the car off at 13v (fresh off the charger, I'll test it again tomorrow). Started the car and was sitting between 13.8v and 14.2v.
Turned everything on...this is an SES so that means max AC, headlights, radio, rear defogger, both heated seats, hazards and it did dip between 12.8v (yikes) and 13.2v.
I will put in a new belt, but the part stores were all closed by the time I got to that point. Inspection shows a little cracking across some of the strips, but not beyond replacement threshold. I do think i have about 125k on mine though, as last time i changed it was approx 125k and i'm now hitting the 250k mark because I drive close to 1200km a week, though lately, it's shared duty between the car and a motorcycle, which happens to be at the shop getting a new tire and having the old stock exhaust put on (go figure that's when my alt goes.
Going to give her a good test ride tonight with the AC cranked and see how that goes, the early signs of failure for me were the Alt light (battery one) coming on when the AC was on, or blower and headlights and then just kept coming on more and more and more....then my radio started to shut off, then the airbag light came on, then my headlights, speedometer, tachometer, odometer, turn signals and eventually car itself would shut off...so much fun...by comparison this swap was a walk in the park...a lot more of a pain than it should be...but a lot less in the '06 than the '05.
I'm not trying to hijack the thread, but the '05-'07 are more or less identical cars...but apparently some small redesigns made it through the years.
Now I can go back to loving my car again.
|08-31-2014 04:27 PM|
|PLRX||I remove mine from the bottom, it fits perfectly thru the chassis/crossmember.|
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