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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-25-2013 01:12 PM
WhySsoSseriouss Wow awesome guys. I really appreciate all the help. I'll keep you informed!
01-25-2013 02:22 AM
tmittelstaedt OK so I got curious on pricing and checked online - for for a 2005 Ford Focus zx4 (you need to put in your VIN to get an accurate part#) the cost is anywhere from $150-$100 for what they call the 'engine mount isolator' and for the transmission mount the cost is $40 from Oreilly and for the dogbone torque strut the cost is $30 from autozone, for comparisons sake. You could always check around online and print out the best price for the Ford part then take it into the parts dept of your local Ford dealer and if their price is higher, pull out the printout and ask if they would match the price. If you do go with then set your profile to select dealer to someone like Village Ford which buys advertising space on, that kicks them a spifff back I think...
01-25-2013 01:48 AM
sleepyboy X's 3, the mounts are very easy, almost as easy as changing a air filter. $200.00 dollars for less than an hrs worth of work is highway robbery.
01-25-2013 01:31 AM
amc49 X2 to everything he says.

$200 to change those mounts is simply ridiculous, one who knows how to do it can do all 3 in 45 min. with no rushing at all.

You can do the passenger one alone if you want, that one often gets most of the vibration stopped.
01-25-2013 01:05 AM
tmittelstaedt WhySsoSseriouss, I would encourage you to do the mount replacement, it is really easy. Here's a quick synopsis for the passenger mount on a Zetec so you can see how easy it is (I just did a head replacement on one of mine so I had the mount out)

Put floor jack under crossmember of car and raise it and put jackstands under car once tires have cleared it. It's not necessary to get the car way up there, just get the front car body on jackstands and off the tires to prevent the suspension from chasing the mount up when you pull the mount.

open hood, remove 1 bolt holding coolant overflow tank, unclip tank and move it aside, unclip power steering fluid tank and move it aside.

Put jack under oil pan with block of wood in between jack and pan. Start to raise engine just a quarter inch or so, just enough to put the weight on the jack. Don't raise it further, yet.

Unbolt 3 bolts connecting mount to body. Raise jack more and you will see mount starting to come up off body. Unbolt mount from engine. Bolt new mount on engine. Thread in bolts to body through mount a few turns. Lower jack. Tighten bolts.

You will need a collection of 1/2 sockets, socket extensons, a breaker bar, a torque wrench (not absolutely required but you should get in the habit of using it, and a beam-style wrench is the best for the occassional DIYer since they almost never lose calibration) and it is also helpful to get a small torx socket set (Sears has one) in case the mount engine studs decide to unscrew from the engine. (not the male torx, the female torx sockets)

You will need to grab onto the engine and heave it forward just a tad to get the mount holes to line up while it's on the jack.

The same principle is used for the drivers side mount (it's under the battery tray and air intake box)

Removing the passenger mount is almost a requirement for doing a timing belt inspection/change, and for removing and replacing the alternator (you can do that without removing the mount actually but doing so gives more access)

If you have just started to do your own work on your cars then the tooling needed to do all this is going to probably cost you around $200 - but it's probably some of the most commonly used tooling for working on your car.

A bit of advice on buying the floor jack and the jackstands.

Do not buy the little $25 floor jack. Get the great big hurking expensive one. If you go new Harbor Freight sells one they call Low Profile/High Lift - I don't have any experience with that specific one, but you want one like it. My floor jack I bought years ago and it has NASCAR plastered all over it, it's completely made out of steel, weighs a ton, and is big. You may be able to find a used one. The jack may work with the Focus for this job but you will end up throwing it away later on when you get sick of dealing with it.

As for jackstands, the small jackstands with the 16" max lift are another buy that you will regret. Get jackstands with at least 24" lift (Harbor Freight calls these 6 ton stands) If you find a set of smaller ones for $5 a jack at a garage sale don't turn your nose up at them as they can always come in handy, but you will end up getting the larger ones eventually.

The all-aluminum jackstands and floor jacks I've seen on sale these days are very tempting - I might consider them if I didn't already have them - but the all steel ones are cheaper and work just as well.

Look on for used tools. There are also a few used tool vendors in the larger cities. I have one near me that has bins of sockets for example. Spending a couple hours digging through the bins to assemble a set of Craftsman sockets is not an unenjoyable way to spend a Saturday. But Sears also loves to put this stuff on sale all the time.
01-24-2013 12:03 PM
WhySsoSseriouss I took it by a mechanics place and he popped the hood and kinda humped my car and the engine swayed and he said that he would start by replacing all 3 motor mounts and the tranny mounts. When priced he said for all OEM Ford parts it'd be 262$ and change then around another 200$ for labor. So looking at over 400$ for a MAYBE fix just hasn't settled very well with me and no one has seemed to be able to give me a solid answer on identifying the issue.

@Tmittelstaedt Drowning out the sound of the vibration doesn't really bother me it's the feeling of it and the sound of other shit rattling. Like the glasses in the glass case on the roof or bottled water in the door cup holders. Or the fact that when looking into the rear view mirror the cars behind me have big rectangular headlights instead of 2 circles.

@Whynothink & Amc I've just started to do my own work on cars. I never grew up around it so I tried teaching myself alot of stuff I did to my Honda. So i'm not all that well acquainted with how to do some stuff. But i'll see if I can't find any videos and go about trying to inspect the mounts myself and take pictures and head back here to see if anything can be decided.

Thank you everyone
01-07-2013 05:14 PM
amc49 One thing I've found is that if car has hit anything head on that stopped it fairly violently, even if no real damage done, or if car say jumped curb or a median on the pass side, then you probably have torn the bottom of the pass side mount. There is no real support on that engine side and that mount tears easily when engine weight continues going forward from inertia. I note that many Japanese cars have a front/rear restraint link at that point to stop that, here, they don't care.
01-07-2013 05:02 PM
amc49 Yes, sometimes they break like that, I always carefully run my hand around the bottom to feel it. Many others break inside though to not be obvious, the metering plate either comes loose or breaks. The aftermarket commonly uses a rivet to fasten it, that rivet comes loose and mount quits absorbing vibration. There is no need to determine if it is broken, only a deaf person cannot tell as it will rattle like hel-. Irrelevant again as you change that one first anyway first anyway........

' He's got no choice but to replace all 3 - and cross his fingers and hope that solves the problem.'

Well, yeah, if you don't read I guess you'd have to do that. I posted the most likely one to go, and ways to separate all three from each other, ADD is not my fault...........just holding the engine in the bay is by far not all these mounts do. The vibration is FELT, past hearing when bad enough, no stereo even $500 one is going to mask that.

I have bought Anchor mounts since the eighties, they have the market choked apparently. They VERY often are substandard even when brand new, the pass side ones have the top plate lightly pressed into place to let mount explode in as little as 2-3 months. Garbage.
01-07-2013 05:36 AM
whynotthinkwhynot Duratec front mounts don't look like that, but close. I forgot what mine looks like because I've had VF mounts for so long.

We have had issues with aftermarket mounts. About 1 in 3 will work. There is only one aftermarket manufacturer to my knowledge- Anchor. I have also seen where Anchor has the part numbers mixed up for AT vs MT. So be sure to take a phone pic of your mount from as many angles as you can before you get there if you can't take the old mount with you.

This is one of those things that we encourage people to DIY. This car has 3 mounts. There is the front (pass side) mount, the Transmission (rear, driver side) mount, and the lower dog-bone (torque-strut) mount. With high mileage, all 3 could be bad. All 3 of mine were bad at 120k when I changed to polyurethane mounts. Poly mounts are more expensive, not hydraulic, race-only, but will most likely not need to be replaced again. There is some vibration at idle with these mounts- it doesn't bother me, and it's less than it vibrated with bad mounts.

The Motorcraft part for the front mount is what most people recommend. Polyurethane inserts are available for the torque strut mount for about $20, but you have to cut out or press out the old rubber. The Motorcraft part for the torque-strut mount gives you a new aluminum bracket if yours is broken- and it costs around $80. The rear transmission mount is solid rubber, and I've not heard of anyone having a problem with the Anchor part for this mount or the torque-strut mount.

1) take pics or remove your front mount before you buy a replacement. Make sure you get the right part
2) It is recommended to replace all 3 mounts if mileage is high because a single new mount helps a nearly bad mount fail much quicker.
3) If the lower bracket is cracked- get the Motorcraft lower mount.
4) Poly mounts cost $450 for all 3, but your car vibrates like a Harley at stoplights. Chicks dig it.

Yes, an engine that is not running right will add to the vibration. I don't think there is anything wrong with suggesting a tune-up: clean/re-gap plugs (change if needed), coil boots (80k+), MAF cleaning, air filter check (read OM)- replace if needed, and the fuel filter (25k service life).
01-07-2013 02:22 AM
sleepyboy Here is a pic of a bad mount. As you can see the rubber is squished down (doesn't always but this was how mine was), but the rubber also separates from the metal allowing the fluid in them to seep and leak out. Without the fluid in there to dampen the vibrations it will cause the car to vibrate. This is the one of the number 1 causes to most vibration problems. You can't see the problem till you take the mount off and look at it. You can however feel it if you stick you hand under the mount and feel if the rubber is separated from the metal of the mount. Like AMC said go for a ford mount the aftermarket ones fail much quicker.

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