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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-03-2013 10:09 PM
svtguy88 Basically, the original design for the clutch and flywheel kinda sucked. So they changed it, but you have to change both parts together (you can't use a pre-TSB flywheel with a post-TSB clutch).

It kinda makes the job a little more expensive, as you are forced to buy both parts, but, in my opinion, it's worth it. A light aluminum flywheel is a night and day difference when compared to the pre-TSB dual-mass flywheel (that thing is heeeeeeavvy).
02-03-2013 03:47 PM
Originally Posted by guitarcluf View Post
So what exactly does TSB stand for? I'm kinda new to this stuff
Technical Service Bulletin. Think of them as a midpoint between a normal repair attempt and a Recall.
02-03-2013 12:20 PM
guitarcluf So what exactly does TSB stand for? I'm kinda new to this stuff
02-02-2013 09:33 PM
svtguy88 I can't say for sure, but I think they were all pre-TSB from the factory. I could be wrong. I own a 2003, and it had the pre-TSB unit. I'm sure someone will chime in with the cutoff date, if they did ever come from the factory with the new design.
02-02-2013 02:37 PM
Originally Posted by guitarcluf View Post
Where does the 2003 fall as far as the "pre" or "post" TSB?
I believe every SVT is subject to the clutch TSB regardless of manufacture date
02-02-2013 11:02 AM
guitarcluf Where does the 2003 fall as far as the "pre" or "post" TSB?
02-01-2013 04:25 PM
svtguy88 Don't know the specifics on the Spec clutch -- it wasn't the "go to" when I bought my clutch/flywheel.

That being said -- there are two stock designs for the clutch and flywheel, pre- and post-TSB.

To make a long story short(er), if you have the old (pre-TSB) clutch and flywheel, you'll be replacing both, as the design got revamped. If you've already got the post-TSB setup, then your options are a bit more open (you could, in theory, replace just the clutch, or just the flywheel with some other ones -- I believe). However, as mentioned above, if you are going deep enough to change the clutch, you may as well just do the flywheel at the same time.

FWIW, I've got the Clutchmasters stage 1 with the light flywheel, and love it. Just enough of an increase in pedal pressure, without it being obnoxious -- and the lighter flywheel helps out a *lot* with the hanging RPM's that the SVT is so famous for...
01-31-2013 11:05 AM
guitarcluf Thanks guys! One more question: I was told by C-F-M that only the Spec flywheel's would fit with the Spec clutch kits, but it looks like people are pairing fidanza flywheels with the kits. Are there any adjustments that need to be made for this, or can the Fidanza fit with CM and Spec clutch kits?
01-25-2013 07:38 PM
Dads03SVT I have a Luk kit waiting here to go in mine....don't know if i'd like the light weight flywheel.

So far my stock is holding and i have 152,000 on it...but my SVT is the later 2003 model.
01-25-2013 03:25 PM
Originally Posted by pasta View Post
^^^^he is 100% correct save your money aluminum isnt going to make any gains
I'd disagree. Gains in power, no not noticeably. But technically if the flywheel is lighter, than less energy is used on changing it's rotational rate and more energy can go into changing your wheels rotation rate. Less rotating mass isn't going to give you more power really, but marginally more power will reach your wheels, if that makes any sense. Don't expect to be able to say X hp gains though.

The gains are in power delivery. I LOVE my 12 lb Al flywheel, the engine revs up much more freely than with the stock 24.5 lb steel flywheel. So no I don't have gains as in a lot more horsepower, but the delivery of my horsepower is much more fun. It's a matter of Drivability gains vs Power gains. Similar in concept to lighter wheels making your car feel like it's a little faster. Less rotating mass for the engine to accelerate allows the car to accelerate faster.

I'd suggest waiting to get a Al flywheel till you need a clutch, but it will be necessary to pair them. For instance, I have a Spec Clutch, so I need a Spec Flywheel.

Al flywheels have a steel plate that bolts on where the clutch disc makes contact with the flywheel, frequently called a "friction pack". Once you get a clutch and Al flywheel, when you need a new clutch many thousands of miles later, instead of machining the flywheel surface like you would on a steel flywheel, you spend the $80 or so on a new "friction pack" for your flywheel.

So no, not worth you trying to swap out just a flywheel right now (unless you are racing and really need to affect your power delivery). For street driving, just wait till you need a clutch replacement and consider it then. The trade off is going to be some clutch chatter and easier to stall it when starting from a stop, but personally, I'll gladly take that to get the fun factor

I will caution you though, listen to a SVTF with clutch chatter and find out if it annoys you before considering buying an Al flywheel and performance clutch. I ride Ducati's with multiplate dry clutches that rattle like crazy, people think the bike is broken at red lights! So comparatively I never understand the problem with clutch chatter on my SVTF. Which is why I wholeheartedly recommend the light Al flywheel and performance clutch when it's time for a new clutch. But I have seen a LOT of threads of people very annoyed at the noisy clutch. Also I've had a fair number of people get in my SVTF and ask "WTF is the matter with your car??!"
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