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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-10-2015 04:50 AM
amc49 'I get the light about 30% of the time...'

One either understands there is a place for that VCT to be at and it will NEVER mess up, or they don't. I picked up on that with my first one. The only difference in older VCT exhaust and the intake on SVT is the camshaft they put it on. If the working direction is backwards that will complicate things a little but the absolute test should still be 100% viable, ergo, making sure the VCT is at dead end stop before saying it's done. Why on earth did Ford even bother to come up with the idea if it has no value? And why when I did my first one, instead of just diving in to rework it again and again, did I know to look for other missing service manual information that was located in typical Ford fashion about a hundred pages away from where it could do any good at all???

Last time I'm gonna say this, it falls on deaf ears like usual. When you loosen the VCT sprocket you then are spending 100% of your fubar time putting that sprocket ideally back EXACTLY where it was before. Why I say don't loosen. I haven't read up on SVT but the Contour had 22 degrees of total movement and the allowable error there is only maybe 2 or so before you start getting the same codes. You can't get a code where there was none before if you don't loosen the sprocket if nothing else changed. And please spare me telling me how different belts can have the timing in 'different' places, if so the belt is garbage. There is no such thing as a different belt, the only error they can have is one of variance between individual teeth, ergo the belt is scrap. Retiming does not fix that.

I'm at 100% on the older ones, having done like 7 or 8 Contour and ZX2 VCT now. I don't loosen the 2 non-SVT Focus I have at all, the camtool slides right in when done. Never saw one before the first one I did and the Contours are super bitchy about the timing just like these are. At least for every one else it would appear.

I've been through this discussion before on the Contour zetec sites, they couldn't improve on the idea other than spouting you just gotta work it until you get it right either, even best of the best who had done lots of them. I don't buy that, statements like here (30% error????) tell me somebody does not know what they are doing or rushing the work or working with non-stock cam timings. The Ford procedure CAN work and I know why they do it that way but the unexplained parts just complicate matters when slight errors turn out to be bigger ones.

Finding TDC with a pencil or other long rod is mistake #1, while possible, it can easily have you off 5 degrees; the up/down of the piston stops for maybe 2-3 of that, only a dial indicator or TDC pin is going to get you right there. Meaning using a pencil there is butchery.

I'm talking dead stock OEM parts and timing here.

Once you start going for non-stock cam timings you are going to have to face that locked in timing bugaboo unless the range can be altered. I'm sure that's possible by modding the cam teeth the sensor reads or maybe plugging in different values with a tune. Once one starts custom timing the intake cam for power you will not be able to do things that easy either.

I built printing machines with MANY of the same basic working devices as VCT, you have to make sure ALL of them are timed correctly and how if they can vary all over the map? Easy, there is a known 'centered up in running condition' position on every single one, you have to be there to have it timed properly so all press computer control has its' proper operating ranges. That is what 'end stop' on a VCT cylinder essentially does, it guarantees that the operating range of the VCT is within the range the PCM is looking for at the time the VCT cylinder is bolted down to the cam. You guys should try that with 30 gears (one printing unit only, try being responsible for TEN) and half of them are variable timing devices, you're crying here about ONE. I had 96 ink key motors that all had to set for centered range on one fountain assembly only and 8X that to get simple two sides of 4 color for crying out loud, that's 768 centering adjustments!!! Then centered circumferential and matched backup on one side to the other across four big cylinders and then 8 sidelays as well as all cocking devices centered and not even talking about the overall form to the folder yet, several other things to center there too. At $10K paper cost for 5 minutes of running (2000 ft./minute) to test you need to be able to set those devices at 100% known good running position before you even crank a big b-tch like that press up. I did that all day long for 35 years.

Look at the later Ford twin VCT engines, they modified the cam timing instructions and cylinder markings to include EXACTLY what I'm talking about. There is now clearly a third holding fixture that holds the VCT cylinders themselves rock solid while timing the belt. Locking tool 303-1097....................Ford finally pulls its' head out after losing so much due to stupid procedures.,d.eXY

If you time without knowing EXACTLY where that VCT is you are pissing in the wind. Motorcycles were here 20+ years ago, pretty damn silly.
05-09-2015 11:57 AM
1turbofocus Magic no , doing it your way or the way the book says 90% of the time you will get a over or under advanced CEL

No on has put more timing belts on the SVT engine then I have , and even knowing the SVT engine like I do I get the light about 30% of the time , any more I shoot for close then adjust the intake cam according to the CEL and its spot on , less hassle , less time , less frustration

05-09-2015 04:19 AM
amc49 There's no magic there............but I suppose to the uninitiated there is. They certainly seem to have hell with it even on non-VCT ones.
05-09-2015 12:55 AM
1turbofocus If only it was that easy

05-07-2015 02:50 PM
amc49 Put the VCT cylinder back on its' internal end stop. When you loosen the sprockets the VCT 'springs up', or the spring snaps the cylinder one way to a dead stop, that is it. A third timing mark if you will. When you move the motor around that tends to pull the cylinder back off the stop, especially if oil has leaked out of the VCT due to wear.

You're really looking for 3 things there, TDC, camtool in backs of cams AND that cylinder on its' dead end stop, if it's not you rotate cam until it hits solid and then bar will go in back of both cams if all is right.
04-28-2015 10:17 PM
1turbofocus I can help you with that just give me a call

04-28-2015 09:59 PM

slim02svt, I need to know if you found an answer to your vct timing belt and cam issue. I have the same problem. Lock the cams at TDC, rotate engine twice and vct cam (intake) is off by about 10%. What was your fix?
01-29-2013 08:18 AM
tukaniSVT To take the TBelt cover off correctly without cracking it, you actually have to remove the bolts from the Passenger Engine mount to get to them. **MAKE SURE YOU SUPPORT THE ENGINE BEFORE TAKING THOSE OFF**

01-26-2013 04:00 AM
Originally Posted by SBK86 View Post
If you don't know if it has been changed and you're high in miles then I highly recommend you replace it or at least inspect it. If the belt on an SVT snaps you're in deep trouble since it's an interference motor.

I forget how easily it is to take off that top timing belt cover.. I think it's 4 screws but you also have to remove the valve cover to get to them.
The upper t belt cover does have four bolts but it goes on after the valve cover. This cover actually hides most of the vct gear solenoid wires.
01-25-2013 03:13 PM
nate4027 Didn't mean to hijack the thread but I will take it apart and inspect it, Thanks.
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