|01-19-2013 01:04 PM|
|MattB488||Well the weather is actually really nice out here today (about 45 degrees) and I'm out doing a little upkeep checking fluids and such and actually thought about pulling the blower real quick to see. Ill let you guys know what I find. And yeah once this resistor blew I figured it was the motor itself since I just replaced the switch and the fuse, coupled with the noise the blower makes.|
|01-17-2013 03:16 PM|
I got a 'like' new blower motor/assembly (less than 400 miles I pulled it myself from a 2001) that I'll list in 'For Sale' section if you are interested, $35 +shipping. I won't need it til I sell it...lol - let me know.
Just got a P0340 code - got that sensor too but I'm thinking I'll need it if the 3 year old warrantied plug wires don't fix it.
|01-17-2013 12:27 PM|
X2 on the above advice.
All I can add is that on mine, when it started squeaking on low speed I was able to "fix" it by dripping a bit of motor oil on the shaft. (old style oil can filled with 30W)
|01-17-2013 09:44 AM|
|rsnow||the fan is usually easy to pull out since you have everything down already. i would do a quick ck to see if there is rust or the fan is hard to turn. if anything the noise maybe some leaves etc. in the fan, you can clean out while you have it out. Its funny, under the cowl there is a place for a cabin air filter but they are never installed from the factory. Trash can get down to the fan over time.|
|01-17-2013 09:42 AM|
The part number for the blower motor I picked up was TYC 700105. IIRC I paid ~$40 for it from Amazon. Also, if your going to replace your resistor pack again, Amazon has them (Dorman 973-012) for ~$15.
|01-17-2013 08:00 AM|
|Montag||The resistor pack is installed in an air duct to cool it, since resistors of that size tend to build up heat. It probably failed the second time because it got too hot. You can get away with testing it first, but it needs to be installed before you run current through it for any length of time.|
|01-17-2013 01:43 AM|
2000. Blower motor going bad?
I have a 2000 se that the heater is acting up in. I bought the car with 74k miles on it and as far as I know it's completely stock. Early last year my climate control fan speed switch burnt out. Not a big deal, $28 at a local car auto parts dealer. Right after this new year, my heater again stopped working. It was the same symptoms as last time so I assumed it was the switch again, tore the switch out and opened it up and it was spotless inside. After some troubleshooting I found it was the F64 fuse in the engine compartment fuse panel. Also, the fan had quit working on all low speeds, so I replaced the resistor pack so I had heat again at variable speed, but left the glove box out and the resistor pack hanging down till I could get into a garage to change it since it's cold out. Well about 30 minutes into driving yesterday evening the resistor pack went bad again, it just stopped blowing on lower speeds and works on 4. My question is, do you guys think the blower motor itself is going bad causing it to draw too much for the resistor pack to handle? It makes a little bit of odd noise when it runs. And as soon as the resistor pack failed I reached down and the wires and pack itself were pretty warm. Any other ideas to check while I'm at it? I would just like to do everything at once and get it buttoned up and not have to worry about it again. Thank you!