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Thread: Help!!! I think I broke it! Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-10-2013 10:11 PM
amc49 Uh, luck. New drums actually do nothing to cure squeak. The initial RMS of the finish may help slightly but that is worn off in one hour of use. There is no specific 'machining' done on drums to make them not squeak.

Focus rear drums squeak because of the thin backing plate and the way the shoes anchor down. Brake dust makes it worse, dry lube points where shoe touches plate make it worse. Fix either of those and problem goes away for a while. Actual problem is that the right angle end of shoe material digs into the drum to lock and twist until drum motion snaps it back loose to repeat again. The high frequency of it makes the squeak. A function of semi-metallic shoes, metal on metal always tries to squeak. If you knock off the right angle corner of shoe to not dig in anymore the shoe cannot dig in to make vibration. Works on any and all shoes I've used on Focus and takes maybe two minutes to do with shoes out of vehicle. I've got two sets of the loudest squeakers you ever heard on two cars and they haven't squeaked once since I fixed them using exact same brake shoes/worn drums, that was long ago............
01-10-2013 06:24 PM
malim
Quote:
Originally Posted by escott816 View Post
Thanks, We removed the bolts to change the brakes as per our chilton book. The book didn't say anything about the back plate coming off though. It just scared us. It was on there for hours and then fell off suddenly. We're going to bolt it back on and then do the wheel bearing. Quick question though, I've heard the pullers that you rent from the auto store doesn't work to pull the bearing? Is that correct? and if so where can I have it pressed? Thanks Again

Well any auto shop has a press that I am sure will press out the old and press in the new bearing for a price. However, I recommend you guys change the whole drum. When you buy the drums, it already has a new bearing pressed in. It's just easier, take of the 30mm nut, remove the drum and install a new one. Don't cheap out on the drum though, as the cheapo ones have a terrible bearing pressed that fail in 10k. Happened to me twice, so I went with a better drum and no problems.

This is important. When you change the drum and install a new one, while you are tightening you should spin the drum counter-clockwise about 10 revolutions every so often while tightening. This will ensure that the bearing in the drum is sitted correctly while you are tightening the nut. The torque on the rear nut is 174 lbs/ft, so please use a torque wrench, rent one if you don't have one. At the very least, use a breaker bar because you don't want that wheel flying off later.

I did my the rear breaks on my car with new shoes and hardware, but the breaks were still squeeking. So I've changed the drum and that solved the problem. The drum must be machined at least, if you don't want to replace it, so it won't squeek.
01-10-2013 05:47 PM
escott816 Thanks^^
01-10-2013 05:43 PM
emsvitil The 2 rivets normally hold the backing plate on.

But they just make it easier to put things together and aren't really needed.


The 4 bolts will hold everything together, you just have the fun of lining everything up.........
01-10-2013 05:43 PM
escott816 Thanks, We removed the bolts to change the brakes as per our chilton book. The book didn't say anything about the back plate coming off though. It just scared us. It was on there for hours and then fell off suddenly. We're going to bolt it back on and then do the wheel bearing. Quick question though, I've heard the pullers that you rent from the auto store doesn't work to pull the bearing? Is that correct? and if so where can I have it pressed? Thanks Again
01-10-2013 05:03 PM
malim Well, by removing the four bolts, you actually do remove the breaking plate/spindle assembly. The drum is attached to that plate with a 30mm nut. So just put the whole drum with the spindle back on and use those four bolts to attach it back.

If you are replacing the rear bearings, you have to unbolt the drum using that 30 mm retaining nut. You should have done it this way if you were going to replace the wheel bearing.

Also, pictures would help to better understand what you are talking about.

If you youtube on how to change the rear breaks on these cars, majority of the people remove the drum of the spindle by taking out that 30mm nut only and not removing the plate (four bolts). This is easier, however the nut can only be reused 2-3 times before it should be replaced.
01-10-2013 05:00 PM
escott816 I've checked the diagram on the fordparts.com site and it looks like it might have been 2 rivets? Does that sound right? And if so what can we do now? Thanks
01-10-2013 04:59 PM
escott816
Help!!! I think I broke it!

My husband is changing our rear brakes and wheel bearings. He removed the drum by unbolting the four bolts on the rear of the braking plate. He removed the old shoes, put the new ones in and when he tried to put the drum back on the braking plate fell off. Did we break it? we can't find and bolt or holes where it was attached? Thanks

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