|10-05-2015 08:04 PM|
Focus ST rust on door & hood seams!
Just purchased my white 2013 Focus ST from a private seller a few weeks ago. Get home, vacuum, clean & wash. While drying I notice slight rust bubbles beginning to form on both rear doors [at the seams] and the hood [also the seam]. Bought it with just over 38k miles so it's out of the original warranty even though it was only 33 months old. Dealer confirms the rust but can't do anything as it's out of warranty. Suggested I call Ford, same story. Contact BBB, same story. Dealer body shop confirmed the same, improper assembly/lack of paint or seam sealer.
Ford's rust "perforation" warranty goes for 5 years. It appears as though mine won't rust through [perforate] within that period but likely thereafter.
So, it looks like Ford won't do anything and I'll have to spend the $ to get it fixed else I'll have rusting doors & hood in not too many years.
We all know that rust doesn't occur overnight and this is obviously due to a lack of proper assembly/paint/seam sealer.
If your Foci is still within the 3yr/36k warranty carefully look at all the door, hood & hatch seams. IF you see any rust forming take it to the dealer, get it documented and fixed [I'd ask them for new panel[s]].
|01-19-2014 10:39 PM|
Yeah that's rail dust for you.. Sucks, I had an F150 white n the tailgate was full of orange..
Not only does it happen on fords it's on all vehicles and any color just you notice it on white.
Here's a range rover with rail dust
|01-19-2014 09:44 PM|
|01-19-2014 09:03 PM|
|CunFFS13||I'm wandering if Ford took care of your car under warranty?|
|09-29-2013 11:15 PM|
I have a white platinum hatch and the back of my car is covered with iron particles constantly. I use iron x about once a month to keep it looking clean.
In my experience clay will not get all of the particles out and the larger ones will be left behind. Plus iron x neutralizes the oxidation and stops the pitting that the iron is doing to the paint. Clay will take the particle out but can leave small pieces behind that can continue to do damage.
Sent from my Nexus 4
|09-29-2013 09:16 PM|
I did not read the entire thread but this "rail dust." Many many ways to fix this... I use this:
|09-29-2013 07:07 PM|
My car is Oxford white and exhibited the rail dust on the rear hatch off the lot. I've clay bar'd and waxed it twice within 10k miles using Mcguires products and it most definitely did not eliminate the contaminants in the clear coat. Yes, you can greatly reduce the signs of it by using a clay bar but sadly it will still be there. They are most severe directly under the rear window hatch area. I may have to look into the iron-x product but its a frustrating dilemma!
*edit*-I may give serious consideration to having a pro detailing shop try to get the hatch area perfect. At least that way I can combat minor rail dust as opposed to trying to reverse the severe stuff that's been burried from day 1.
|09-13-2013 02:51 PM|
|Krizayjm||Shaunaf61 like other comments. Buffing the car won't likely get the embedded particles in the paint off. You will have to clay the vehicle. I am the OP that complained about the spots and after claying my car they are gone. I would also suggest investing in a bottle of Carpro Iron X. Not cheap (about $20) but works wonders. Spray the whole car with iron x, spray off, then finish off with clay and a good coat of fresh wax|
|09-13-2013 11:51 AM|
|09-13-2013 11:21 AM|
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