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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-20-2016 03:27 AM
ferret15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ajpaoluccii View Post
Great write up sir
I take a lot of cars to get their oil changed and it usually cheaper than what I pay for in the store. A long with a cheaper price. It's all personal preference.
Idk man, I just buy mobile one with a rebate and its like $25/change which I do either 2 times a year or 10k miles. If I spend $15 on a conventional change i'd have to do it atleast 4 times a year. So idk what kind deals your really getting but i'd rather run full synthetic in my car. If your putting on more than 10k miles every 6 months i wouldn't hesitate to do an oil change at that high of mileage with Mobile 1 , there are guys pushing past 10,000 miles and having the oil tested and its coming back as used, but still good.

That being said, I've found I can price out the whole change at less $10 if were looking at bottom dollar/change spent.
06-19-2016 10:36 PM
Ajpaoluccii
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2012sel View Post
I always drain first, just in case a full oil pan would make a bunch of oil come out of the filter hole. Probably just a habit.

I don't think it's necessary to rev, but shouldn't hurt as long as you allow enough time for the oil to get up to pressure before you do. As for how long to check for a leak, at least 1 minute.

I think I'll preload next time and see if the initial engine noise is not so loud. This time I didn't preload and was a little uncomfortable at how much noise the engine made before the oil filled the engine. Try it both ways and do what you like.
EDIT: Next time I'm going to crank the engine for a few seconds with the accelerator floored. Gas is shut off when you do this but the oil pump should fill the filter.

Keep your receipts and record each oil change in a log. You should be fine.

Anybody else have an opinion on the questions? Please share and explain why. Thanks.
Great write up sir

I used to change my own oil on my 2013 focus, and recently I got a job at a rental car company. I take a lot of cars to get their oil changed and it usually cheaper than what I pay for in the store. It definitely surprised me because the only reason I changed my oil myself was because I thought I was saving money. Not only did I have to get dirty I was also paying more. I have become very good friends with the fellows at my local express oil change, and they take very good care of my car. A long with a cheaper price. It's all personal preference.
05-11-2016 09:19 PM
sailor However you typed that, it's almost totally impossible to understand.

Jacking from the front of most Focus models folks use the rear motor mount area of the crossbar as that was listed as a jacking point. Since it's off center, the front won't lift evenly and you need to carefully let it down on your jack stands set at the same height to level it & make it secure.

DO make sure wheels at the rear have the brake set and are chocked, assuming you are jacking on concrete so the jack can move on the floor as you lift the car.

Jacking when the jack sinks in & won't move is more hazardous, as the car needs to roll on it's wheels to stay on the jack saddle properly.

I'm assuming a typical floor jack from your description.

If you jack the front with that offset position and don't have the rear wheels locked in position, it can be a hazard because a jack has little strength against sideways movement. Small or cheap ones can collapse sideways as the car moves, so you need to watch out for that VERY closely if jacking so the rear wheels roll instead of the jack moving on the floor. Obviously NOT a recommended method.
05-11-2016 09:03 PM
okaythen my floor jack the front right wheel is higher so it is off the ground some. when I am using the floor jack since all the weight are in the front from the car, the front is leveled but left right wheel will be in the air. so when I am pumping it it will move to the right a little bit. is this normal or floor jack suppose to be very stable. well I used some painters tape to make both front wheels same height, now it seems to move forward some when I am pumping it, I guess rear wheels are off in the air some. don't use it get a new one? (I think it just moves to the front/right then moves back since it's not leveled)

the floor jack is craftsman 50523, got many good reviews in different sites maybe I got a crappy one.
05-01-2016 04:08 PM
sailor That'll work for your occasional use.

Best for a simple good/bad check of the system.

The float type is popular for it's familiarity (been around forever) and unlimited reuse. Easy to see what it's doing and you can recheck repeatedly. Better to have on hand for shops/enthusiasts who use one more as you can make changes/recheck without using up multiple strips.
05-01-2016 03:02 PM
okaythen cool thanks, I will just get that amazon test strip
05-01-2016 02:28 PM
sailor okaythen - "strength" refers to concentration, and either the float gauges or the new test strips of that type can check it.

That particular strip type also has a PH test included to warn of poor coolant condition.

More testing goes on now simply because of it's availability. When all coolant was of the two year variety test strips didn't exist & the main concern was checking freeze point before Winter.

With long life coolant now being typical (5 yr. change) there's demand for testing to make sure it's OK beyond the basic "strength" test for boil over protection/freeze point.

From my experience some of this testing is trickle down from large trucks that have more concerns with coolant condition (running more miles/years) as they can actually have corrosion/cavittation from pinpoint boiling that over time can actually hole an iron cylinder in contact with the coolant. Hole a cylinder and at the least you're down for a preventable major rebuild (cylinders are replaceable inserts in those diesels).
05-01-2016 01:52 PM
block At MOST, I changed the coolant once in my 99 Contour, which I owned for 15 years (bought it new). 140k miles. Radiator never leaked and I replaced the hoses at most 1x.
So don't worry about it.
05-01-2016 12:57 PM
okaythen
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
The testers have different purposes.

The one you're looking at is for coolant concentration, the test strips are for coolant condition (anti-corrosive additive levels).

Going too long by time only isn't that bad, but it's good to do it at least annually (don't tell anyone you let it go too long). Short trips & sitting can leave more moisture/contaminants in the oil that longer drives help evaporate, your trips sound good for the car.


Edit - looking into it more, there are multiple types of test strips avail.. Not just the additive type I'm used to but also ones that can show mixture concentration, PH for bad water added etc., and ones for other contaminants that can result from old coolant.
what's the difference between coolant condition and coolant concentration, manual says check coolant strength which one is that? I guess both should be checked at every oil change?

this is for coolant condition right? http://www.amazon.com/Cool-Trak-3115...ifreeze+tester

so glad I talked to you, I feel better about my car.
04-30-2016 06:39 PM
sailor The testers have different purposes.

The one you're looking at is for coolant concentration, the test strips are for coolant condition (anti-corrosive additive levels).

Going too long by time only isn't that bad, but it's good to do it at least annually (don't tell anyone you let it go too long). Short trips & sitting can leave more moisture/contaminants in the oil that longer drives help evaporate, your trips sound good for the car.


Edit - looking into it more, there are multiple types of test strips avail.. Not just the additive type I'm used to but also ones that can show mixture concentration, PH for bad water added etc., and ones for other contaminants that can result from old coolant.
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