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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-31-2016 09:11 AM
suss6052
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daring 49 View Post
Actually it is NOT far fetched - the notion- that possibly Motorcraft might outsource their plugs- harken back to-
The Taurus SHO, transverse mounted six, from the 80s. That was a marvelous car. Why? Because they recognized, they did not need to re-invent the wheel, and that Yamaha, had the perfect engine for the application, and they went with it. I believe it was a rendition of Yamaha's Genesis engine, that featured 5 valves per cyclinder. Plus I recall supercharging. Light. Responsive. High revvving. I LIKE the idea of taking what's out there and incorporating it into product if that is what works best. Oh dear, I've digressed again.
The 3.0L DOHC Yamaha V6 used in the Taurus SHO was a redeveloped version of the pushrod 3.0L "Vulcan" V6 engine not some Yamaha Genesis engine, it also only had four valves per cylinder, not 5 as the motorcycle/ snowmobile engine did.
Quote:
In 1984, executives of the Yamaha Motor Corporation signed a contract with the Ford Motor Company to develop, produce, and supply a compact 60 DOHC V6 engine based upon the existing Vulcan engine for transverse application.
Quote:
The SHO V6 was a high-tech and revolutionary design when it debuted in 1988. Displacing 3.0 L (2986 cc/182 cu in), it was an iron block, aluminum head 24-valve DOHC engine with an innovative variable length intake manifold. Its oversquare and symmetrical design, which sported an 89 mm (3.5 in) bore and 80 mm (3.1 in) stroke, gave the high-revving engine an output of 220 bhp (164 kW; 223 PS) at 6200 rpm and 200 lbft (271 Nm) of torque at 4800 rpm at the flywheel, and it sported the added luxury of being able to be used in rear-drive applications. Redline was marked on the tachometer at 7000 rpm, and fuel cut-off occurred at 7300 rpm. The engine was capable of 8500 rpm, but it was electronically limited to 7000 rpm due to the Ford accessories in the prototypes malfunctioning at approximately 8000 rpm. This engine was only available with the Ford MTX-IV transmission.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_SHO_V6_engine
Ford Taurus SHO | Retro Junk Commercial
07-30-2016 11:26 PM
SoKalFocus I used to have a 91 Pontiac Firebird Formula with a 5 speed 305 V8.

Every once in awhile while cruising on the freeway EVERYTHING would shut off for a split second........and come right back on, was kinda freaky at night!

Never took it in cuz I knew it wouldn't do it for the tech and it only happened once in a blue moon.
07-30-2016 11:07 PM
Daring 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by Supramk3 View Post
Alright so i was just driving around and all the sudden, all power was lost.... no acceleration to be found and the whole car went in limp mode, as if i was trying to take off in 5th gear from a dead stop. this was true in all 5 gears.... just no acceleration at all with the pedal to the floor and every position in between. i limped it home and for S&G's, i shut it off and turned the car back on... viola, back to normal.


This puzzles me, absolutely no warning light, chime or message on the base models info screen. when i pulled over to look under the hood.. no smoke, leaks or abnormal noises. Just smelt like really hot plastic or something of the sort.


I am terrified to drive on the highway in fear of it going into limp mode again.
Who else has encountered this? I know DCT owners have, but what about the Manual drivers? I just had the ECU reprogrammed last week for a launching issue. is there a hidden issue i dont know about? Ive been trying to get out of my $8000 negative equity i have in this car since last thursday. with no luck. Im growingly HATING this car.
Plugs worked for me, but I want the flash update. MPG/bhp down, try the obvious least expensive first.

Hi. 2012 Focus SE, base model, 5 speed Hatch. I mean base model, no bells or whistles, but I hand it to Ford, THE HORN SOUNDS Marvelous! But when I use it people don't know it's me, because it has a large car sound in a itty bity econobox. Okay, it has Fog lamps, that work independently of headlights, just like Jeeps, power windows, mirrors, kickin' A/C, looks great in black even with steel wheels and the plastic wheel covers, and I don't care that the radio and programming displays are "low tech" pixel alpha-numeric only, the sound system is great, and steering control buttons, too- okay I digress.

I purchased it from the Ford dealer in Kennesaw, GA with 31K miles on it a couple years ago. I drove it much. I will keep driving it much.
Now, it has 73K. I noticed drop in power, especially over 3600 RPM, and my gas mileage went way down, averaging 22.8 to 23.4 no matter how gently and gradually I drove it, even on the interstates.
Wondered clutch? I think the clutch will need to be replaced within a year from now, however-
I went with the most obvious, despite 100K claim on tune up, researched plugs, came down to Denso vs NGK. Went with the NGK irridiums, 9.99 Advanced Auto, plus $10 rebate, lucky there. I may've read NGK most closely resembles Motorcraft, or possibly makes them for these cars. I could be wrong, but those were my available choices, NGKs were $2 more each. yeah, NO- Motorcraft outsourcing plugs to NGK? I doubt it, however- maybe not, Mazda Hatches sure do look like Focus Hatches, especially the unibody and suspension. Actually it is NOT far fetched - the notion- that possibly Motorcraft might outsource their plugs- harken back to-
The Taurus SHO, transverse mounted six, from the 80s. That was a marvelous car. Why? Because they recognized, they did not need to re-invent the wheel, and that Yamaha, had the perfect engine for the application, and they went with it. I believe it was a rendition of Yamaha's Genesis engine, that featured 5 valves per cyclinder. Plus I recall supercharging. Light. Responsive. High revvving. I LIKE the idea of taking what's out there and incorporating it into product if that is what works best. Oh dear, I've digressed again.

So, plugs in hand, dialectric grease too, before hopping to it, I decided to search some more while my hands were still clean, and found this:

https://www.cars.com/articles/2012-1...1420682568190/

From where I quote:
"The problem: Affected vehicles, which are built between Jan. 1, 2012, and Oct. 22, 2014, and equipped with 2.0-liter engine, exhibit a loss of power. The vehicle will operate normally again after the ignition has been shut off and turned back on. An "Engine Malfunction Service Now" message may be displayed on the dash. The problem is due to a software glitch in the powertrain control module.
See More Service Bulletins
Corrective action: Dealers will update the PCM software with a new program that eliminates the problem. Additionally, if the most recent software update for the transmission control module hasn't been done, dealers will also update that software and perform an adaptive learning procedure.
Warranty info: This repair is being done free of charge under the new vehicle warranty, extended warranty or federal emissions warranty, whichever is applicable.
What owners should do: Call your local dealer with your vehicle's identification number to determine if it's involved in this service bulletin. You can also call Ford directly at 800-241-3673 or NHTSA at 888-327-4236. Reference TSB No. 15-0009."
---------------------
I called Roswell dealer, Service Manager called me back. He was great, said could be change in driving conditions, heat, plus running the AC, and it does average 90F temps in Hotlanta, okay- he said run a quarter tank of gas and calculate manually to get accurate read on MPG, I doubted his lack of trust in car computer and still do, but it is a method of building trust in him and his service department, costs nothing except a quarter tank of gas and some miles. He also said- he didn't want to charge a $120 diagnostic fee yet, without accurate data.

Asked about spark plug change interval, he also echo'd the 100K recommendation. I mentioned service bulletin and he had no interest. So on that I'll call the dealer from where I bought it, in Kennsaw, they're great in their service department, straight up, no BS. But the symptom in the bulletin says warning indicator, and my check engine light never came on or any warning indicator.
Finally-
I pulled a plug, hoping to find a half disintegrated electrode, so that I could feel good about that being the correct diagnosis, you just need new plugs, and you don't need new wires. Well, there was some carbonization, not severe, clean given the 72K mile status of the plug, I'd say. Gap was possibly significantly over proper spec, idk, they were Motorcraft originals, and all four were closer to .060 on all. I already bought the plugs, so went with it. Easiest plug change I have ever done, the I4 is a lovely engine, mine is normally aspirated super base model. Still fun as heck with a 5 speed and nice shifting feel, it's a nimble car. I do have the KN conical filter that comes with the plastic cover replacement. I realize maximum performance from that would entail freeer flow but I also Uber drive late nights, for fun and a write off- so I can't have loud pipes, and I don't want to mess with variable tuning kits available, mostly because of no space for it and I'd rather just wait for the RS which I aim to get gently used in 3-4 years after a couple production runs. I figure no need for new wires since the big voltage/current happens at the end of the wires, as coils are on top of the plugs, how brilliant. I also like direct injection, more brilliance. You could say, I just love these engines, and I think Ford rocks this world with their Ecoboost line, which I don't have, no turbo, and I'm fine with it for now. These engines are awesome. I am so jazzed to hear about ALL RS models coming out of Germany to the rest of the world. I've digressed again-

Can't help it, back in the 70's, when the Capri production came to the US, they were simply not as good. I had the grand fortune of falling into a '74 Merkur Capri, that the guy I bought it from in 1984 obtained overseas. Germany. He was selling it because he bought a new GTI, and didn't have space in his 2 car garage, as the other side was occupied by a covered real old Porsche convertible. I think it was a 356 Speedster convertible 20 years old back then, so - late 50s vintage.

Anyway that Merkur was AWESOME. The ONLY 2.8L Capri I ever saw. And it blew the doors off other Capris made here, in performance, plus quality. It was tight, a poor man's BMW, it actually blew the doors off most of those in the same displacement class, too.

FOCUS, dude, FOCUS, okay, right...

Anyway, plugs changed, I took my loved to the core Focus SE for a drive up GA 400 from Holcomb Bridge to Windward Pkwy and back, about 16 miles round trip, mostly interstate like highway, 65-75 mph. My horsepower is restored to what it was before, my air conditioning was on the whole time. My MPG final reading when I came back at the end of the off-ramp, was 33.8. I'm stoked.
So, if such symptoms plague, and you're over 70K, I'd say, do the cheapest, easiest thing first, and ignore the 100K recommended service interval. Worked for me, cost me 40 bucks, 40 minutes (took my time, forgot my gap checker that ate 10 minutes walking back to apartment to fetch it where I was distracted by cold, sparkling water beverage) and the time it took to research and run to Advanced Auto and back.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it. I will have my RS in good time. A crotch rocket with four wheels, 350 hp eprom limited probably, transferred via 6 speed, AWD with torque vectoring, held fast by body and ass hugging Recaro leather- I'm drooling like a mad man.

Oh yes. And finally-
Finally, I went with the recommended gap settings in Advanced Auto's computer for the NGK irridiums, .033
06-09-2014 09:31 PM
sailor Check this thread from the recall & problems archive:http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/mk3-tsb-recall-problems-archive/281609-weird-issue-2012-se-5-speed-no-power.html
06-09-2014 07:48 PM
Johnnytsunami
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrajet429 View Post
Just experienced this today 44k mi . Driving at 70. Slowed a little and car would only do 65. Got off the interstate. In town very sluggish acceleration.Pulled into a gas station to see if maybe something blocking intake. Just for giggles turned off engine . Restarted problem gone. No engine lights . Wonder if throttle by wire is messing up. Plan on going to dealer. I have always had the sluggish take off problem also. Scares me to think how this car will be once the miles roll up.
I have an appointment coming up to see if the service department cant figure anything out. But like you said, this scares me especially since I am experiencing this at only about 12k miles....
06-08-2014 07:29 PM
cobrajet429
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnytsunami View Post
I have this exact same problem going on right now with my car. Started yesterday when i was driving down the highway doing about 75 with cruise control on. Hit some traffic and slowed down to about 30 and when it was time get back to speed my car wouldnt budge. Put it in 4th, down to 3rd, nothing. No power, no acceleration. Pulled over and turned it off, started it again a few minutes later and it was fine.

Now today while running errands I can feel the car being sluggish and not as "peppy" as it usually runs. Got on the highway and in 5th gear I can usually feel the car pull as it increases speed. Now its struggling to go from 60mph to 70mph Does anyone have any sort of idea about the problem here??? I have an appointment to check the car out with a local dealer as its still under warranty, but I feel like as soon as I turn it in the car will run fine and make a liar out of me.

Just experienced this today 44k mi . Driving at 70. Slowed a little and car would only do 65. Got off the interstate. In town very sluggish acceleration.Pulled into a gas station to see if maybe something blocking intake. Just for giggles turned off engine . Restarted problem gone. No engine lights . Wonder if throttle by wire is messing up. Plan on going to dealer. I have always had the sluggish take off problem also. Scares me to think how this car will be once the miles roll up.
05-30-2014 07:00 AM
Borski Just for reference of some discussion that has previously happened on this when I had the issue: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/duratec-ti-vct-performance-2012-current/318145-intermittent-engine-power-reduction.html
05-30-2014 06:54 AM
Borski
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnytsunami View Post
I have this exact same problem going on right now with my car. Started yesterday when i was driving down the highway doing about 75 with cruise control on. Hit some traffic and slowed down to about 30 and when it was time get back to speed my car wouldnt budge. Put it in 4th, down to 3rd, nothing. No power, no acceleration. Pulled over and turned it off, started it again a few minutes later and it was fine.

Now today while running errands I can feel the car being sluggish and not as "peppy" as it usually runs. Got on the highway and in 5th gear I can usually feel the car pull as it increases speed. Now its struggling to go from 60mph to 70mph Does anyone have any sort of idea about the problem here??? I have an appointment to check the car out with a local dealer as its still under warranty, but I feel like as soon as I turn it in the car will run fine and make a liar out of me.
Have you gotten the ECU flash from TSB 12-5-5? Back in 2012 I had the same issue, not as extreme as yours, but the same as in this thread and this fixed it up for me.
05-30-2014 02:30 AM
Elizabeth I got the reflash. I got a letter for it, and took it in. No problems prior, nor since with drivability.
05-28-2014 04:30 PM
Johnnytsunami I have this exact same problem going on right now with my car. Started yesterday when i was driving down the highway doing about 75 with cruise control on. Hit some traffic and slowed down to about 30 and when it was time get back to speed my car wouldnt budge. Put it in 4th, down to 3rd, nothing. No power, no acceleration. Pulled over and turned it off, started it again a few minutes later and it was fine.

Now today while running errands I can feel the car being sluggish and not as "peppy" as it usually runs. Got on the highway and in 5th gear I can usually feel the car pull as it increases speed. Now its struggling to go from 60mph to 70mph Does anyone have any sort of idea about the problem here??? I have an appointment to check the car out with a local dealer as its still under warranty, but I feel like as soon as I turn it in the car will run fine and make a liar out of me.
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