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Thread: tried everything electrical problem on 05 ford focus need help Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-20-2015 01:53 PM
TracyJH I had the same problem and then I found this site and a gentleman said to clean up the grounding wires on the negative side of the battery. I did and the clicking, flashing, and stalling stopped. We then added another ground off of the battery to the engine. Now it starts a lot faster. I am glad I found similar problems here because I am only out a battery saver relay I changed thinking it was the problem.
01-12-2015 07:39 PM
sailor Good move & a nice first post!

Welcome to FF

When that is recommended, it's seldom believed. Tx for posting your experience with it.
01-12-2015 07:00 PM
Grumpyman
Grounding Issue

My son came home describing a clicking noise under the dash and the headlights going dim. I removed the ground wire coming off the negative connection to the battery, sanded the paint off to bare metal, cleaned connector, used dielectric grease, tightened down the connection, and no more problems.
09-02-2014 08:26 PM
Jutro Here is a video of the clicking:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhrs...6BL4rgORh_DxvA

And the relay clicking when I turn off the car:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TGo...6BL4rgORh_DxvA
08-27-2014 12:01 PM
Jutro Same exact thing has been happening to my 2005 ford focus zx4. Wasn't the battery, nothing in the fuse box, so now I'm replacing the alternator. By the way who else agrees that the location of the alternator is a pain in the butt?!
01-03-2013 06:32 PM
whynotthinkwhynot
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2005fordfocuszx4 View Post
Speedometer and mileage not working - check engine light battery light seatbelt light oil light and coolant light stay on on my dashboard. I recently got my fuel injection switch replaced in my 2005 ford focus zx4. The next day when I turned my car on my speedometer and mileage was not working and all lights on the dashboard stay lit. What can be the problem?
Well, the first problem is that you've posted in a thread that was started 4 years ago. Give us a good description of what your problem is in a new thread using the yellow "New Thread" button on the previous page where the threads are listed. This will give you a wide variety of responses from our regular members, and hopefully we can solve your problem.

I'm personally interested in what you mean by "fuel injection switch"- is that a relay? There are no switches in the EFI circuit. I'd be taking it back to that mechanic and asking him why this problem wasn't there before he worked on the car.

Here is a link to the main page of General Technical Chat so you can start your own thread.
01-03-2013 05:59 PM
mikeeshaq If one of the diodes went out in the alternator, then very possibly AC is being applied to the battery and alot of strange symptoms would appear

Get a multimeter, set to AC Volts, see any? then you have a problem
01-03-2013 05:48 PM
kubiak213 any luck getting it fixed since then?
01-17-2012 01:23 PM
2005fordfocuszx4 Speedometer and mileage not working - check engine light battery light seatbelt light oil light and coolant light stay on on my dashboard. I recently got my fuel injection switch replaced in my 2005 ford focus zx4. The next day when I turned my car on my speedometer and mileage was not working and all lights on the dashboard stay lit. What can be the problem?
08-07-2010 11:35 PM
Try_Duk Wow they would not have gotten one dime if I left with same issues unsolved.They would have removed what they installed , that just sounds more like part swapping then diagnosing.Hear a lot of this now days.Sorry but part swapping gets very costly, just sounded like you are paying to train mechanics.I just would not have paid nothing for parts unless vehicle was repaired.Now I would not pay the bill either if a shop that replaced my ignition module ,plugs , wires, cap, rotor and coil to solve a misfire.This just tells me they just part swapped until they found the problem.Problem is, more and more shops do this instead of finding the problems through proper diagnosing.Demand either they find/fix the problem or remove and refund for all the non corrective parts they installed along with the part swapping training you provided to their mechanics at your labor rate.

I would be looking at Voltage Supply/Defective cable/wire or poor cable/wire connections.Mainly the ones supplying the fuse panels.Would also be looking at grounds and their connections.Would include ECU along with wiring and connection connectors.Best to stay with one place that is trustworthy for repairs and not just replacing parts and charging without resolving the problem , as taking your vehicle to multi shops/people you keep repaying to have the same things checked/retested.Don't pay for parts if you leave with original problem.Ask questions why and what each part your charged for is and why it was replaced.Usually electrical switches and sensors don't all go bad at once or very very rare.If they tell you they are stumped but here is a bill for 5 parts plus install and Diagnosing labor charges, only pay for diagnosing labor time, remember your car hasn't been fixed so why did they put new parts on it but its still broke and doing same thing, They can swap the parts back out or eat the part costs!
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