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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-22-2015 03:20 PM
amc49 Get in line behind the millions more that do the same.

People just can't grasp how you NEVER take anyone's word for the condition of ANY battery when chasing issues, it just kills you left and right.

Why the first line in the diagnosis book starts with the words 'Is the battery a KNOWN GOOD battery at proper volts and fully charged and has passed a loadtest at proper CCA'.

So many grab another thinking it's good then the problems escalate, ergo, I have met the enemy, and he is ME...............................

And the numbers of people that think because the dashlights or headlights or radio are on so battery MUST be good? Where have they been?, that wasn't true even in the '50s. There are entire truckloads of ******* still out there and contagious as hell.

No insult intended or implied to the OP at all, it's just that this simple stuff causes BILLIONS of dollars wasted in a year to the American public, most of who were asleep in science class instead of paying attention. The knowledge can be found in any book but we don't like to read. Ergo, one gets what they deserve. Really? Is that all we got?

Note to the unwashed masses, this guy suspected battery early and saved his own you-know-what, you should all be so lucky (or smart, that figgers in there as well). When you are smart you make 80% of your good luck and get rid of 80% of the bad. And I don't mean smart like did good in testing or able to ramble off the biggest words or whatever, I mean like sitting down for a minute to just think about how simple things work on this beautiful God's earth. The rules are practically cast in concrete, you just have to use them instead of shovelling them all aside to play dumbbutt.

Use your local auto store's ability to check your battery for free, it is a life and budget saver!

Sorry to jack your thread sj, but it just seemed like the time to say it. Luck to you and yours and Merry Christmas to all.................
12-22-2015 02:42 PM
sjbambrgr8 Sorry to waste everyones time and I learned a big lesson. The battery had a short in it. The old battery was bad and so I swapped it for another one that supposedly had been checked and was supposed to be a known good battery according to my associate. As I got further into checking I suspected the battery so took it to O'Riellys and had it checked and it was bad. Got a new on this morning and all is good.
12-21-2015 12:51 AM
iminhell
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjbambrgr8 View Post
I think I found the issue. Both O2 sensors. I talked to an electrician and he said a better way is to just go across each fuse that way all the systems that need to stay charged etc. are except the individual system you are working on. I did that and when I checked it initially across the fuse I was drawing 4.5 amps. I unplugged the front O2 sensor and it dropped almost 3.5 amps. Then I unplugged the rear O2 sensor and it dropped to 0 amps across that fuse terminal.
I will replace the sensors tomorrow and do some more checking. On fuse 36 I'm getting a draw of .15 amps which seems a little high but I will cross that bridge once I address the oxygen sensors.


Well 4.5 Amps isn't going to cause a dead battery/no start in a hours time with a good battery.
So I'd say odds are you have 2 problems and one is a weak battery. Just because it can start a car does not mean it's a good battery.
12-21-2015 12:29 AM
sailor Tough to make guesses without a diagram, idk if that fuse is even supposed to be powered key off.

The one thing I think of first with a parasitic drain is the alternator, it isn't on a fused circuit for easy testing and it's always hot so a bad diode can drain the battery when the car is off.
12-21-2015 12:09 AM
sjbambrgr8
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
LOW resistance when checking positive battery cable to block would be a problem, as that would indicate a short to ground. High would be OK, as you're trying to power anything turned on with the battery in the meter!

Key on the O2 sensors will definitely "power up" as the heaters will be working. shouldn't be any draw from them key off.
Key was out of the ignition when doing all the testing. I haven't checked the resistance through the positive cable to the block again since unplugging the o2 sensors. It is late so I will put that on my agenda as well as checking resistance through o2 sensors.
12-20-2015 11:18 PM
sailor LOW resistance when checking positive battery cable to block would be a problem, as that would indicate a short to ground. High would be OK, as you're trying to power anything turned on with the battery in the meter!

Key on the O2 sensors will definitely "power up" as the heaters will be working. shouldn't be any draw from them key off.
12-20-2015 11:02 PM
sjbambrgr8
Quote:
Originally Posted by emsvitil View Post
I can't see how an O2 sensor by itself would be the problem.

Somewhere on the O2 circuit there's a short.

Switch the locations of the sensors and see if the bit amp draw stays in front or moves to the rear.
I checked resistance through the ground cable of the battery to the block of the motor and got 1.7 ohms. When I checked it through the positive battery cable to the block I got 65-70 ohms. Might explain it if the o2 sensor shorted internally to the exterior of the sensor then to the exhaust. I just don't know what would cause that.
12-20-2015 10:53 PM
sjbambrgr8
Quote:
Originally Posted by emsvitil View Post
I can't see how an O2 sensor by itself would be the problem.

Somewhere on the O2 circuit there's a short.

Switch the locations of the sensors and see if the bit amp draw stays in front or moves to the rear.
I have replaced many O2 sensors and have never seen them do that either but it is weird that I unplug them and the amperage drops. Would it do that if the short were upstream of the plug? It seems like it must be shorting out in the sensor because when I break the circuit at the plug the short ceases to exist. I could check the resistance across the plug on the sensor side. If it were shorted together internally I would get a reading or check each terminal to the exterior of the sensor to see if it shorted to the exterior of of the sensor then found a ground through the exhaust pipe.
12-20-2015 10:46 PM
sjbambrgr8
Quote:
Originally Posted by BC_ZX3 View Post
Sounds like a dead short to me in one of the battery cables. Where the battery cables pass by the EGR tube, check for burns, brittle plastic and exposed copper. I'd check the entire length of the heavy cable.
That is what it seems like (direct short to ground) and it may still be part of the issue. (see my response about O2 sensors in a previous post.) I will deal with the O2 sensors because I know that is an apparent issue. There are 4 leads off the positive terminal and one goes directly to the alternator and it is good. Two go down under the intake by the starter and they are good to that point. I would have to pull the starter to see the rest because that is the only way I can see them. The forth wire is about a 12 gauge wire and it is good as far as I can see. I may still have an issue but I have a place to start now with the O2 sensors.
12-20-2015 10:46 PM
emsvitil I can't see how an O2 sensor by itself would be the problem.

Somewhere on the O2 circuit there's a short.

Switch the locations of the sensors and see if the bit amp draw stays in front or moves to the rear.
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