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Thread: Does your vent selector stick? Have you broken the cables? Read on, Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-01-2015 12:22 PM
sailor Posts about sticking at the ends refer to the heat control blend door, not the multiple doors controlling defrost/vent/floor.

Center position on the knob (floor) isn't QUITE exact on mine for example, there's a transition there between defrost settings & floor/vent settings that's often sticky because a lot moves at once there.

For myself, just keeping it on either side of that position avoids leaving it right at that "sticky" transition point - either in the defrost/floor side or the vent/floor side. Not being heavy handed when moving it through that point has avoided troubles with it so far.
02-01-2015 10:12 AM
catfish77 There are a lot of post about the door sticking at the extreme ends but none for in the middle. I keep mine in the blend setting most of the time and mine will stick there. It is very difficult to get it to switch to vents or feet from there. Is the door sticking or does it have to do with the track? Same fixes as mentioned or different?
09-14-2014 05:34 AM
Tklein NICE !! Thanks for this reply, lots of good info to get busy on !! Thanks; Tim Klein
12-29-2013 12:02 PM
Flap fix

Ref. Sticking vent selector heater controls on 2006 ZX5.Remove drivers under dash panel,loosen hood cable nut and slide off, unclip data connector and set panel aside.Remove 4 screws from selector control ,cables attached, and let hang down. Unhook the black selector gate and feel the action of both front and rear flaps.The main culprit is the flap closest to the radio so as you move that flap you should feel the sticking or stuck condition at both of its far end positions.A deformed internal flap seal causes this jamming effect, so here follows my humble solution, that involves adjustable end stops.I used a 1/16" aluminum strip 3" long and bent up one end about 1/8" at 90 degrees and mounted it on the heater box with short self-tappers against the link of that flap to provide a forward stop.This stop should be carefully positioned so as not to allow the flap to drop into its sticky resting place.If you are close the aluminum is easy to bent so as to get a finer adjustment.The next step is to remove the radio surround panel,disconnect cigar lighter,remove the radio, pull two cables and set unit aside.Drill a hole in the heater box and install adjusting bolt bracket as shown in the photo. It is important to adjust these end stops as minimally as possible or the mechanism will bind. After the two stops are mounted a final check before reassembly is to install the black selector gate back in position and work "by hand" the mechanism through its full motion to confirm that no stickiness occurs in either of its end positions and that it transitions smoothly through its various modes.Although the flap is not technically as the designer intended, my air flow is normal and the cable controls work properly. The cost of materials is negligible and the labour maybe two hours work .The Ford car company does not need any more of our hard earned money so I hope this helps some other physically challenged heater boxes. The cost of materials was negligible and took maybe 2 hours, with a low difficulty scale.

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12-08-2013 07:38 PM
Originally Posted by fozziebear View Post
My 07 has a problem with sticking too.What I found is not in the cables or blower housing but the bled door it self.The rubber seal Ford uses gets sticky over time and doesn't release from the housing where it makes contact.If the center vent and duct is removed you can just get your hand to the top of the blend door and you'll feel it stick.As a short term fix spray some silicone spray on the blend door and work it limit to limit several times.This will last several months then it will need to be done again.
My solution to prevent sticking in my '07 is quite simple and effective. The vent blend dial range is from 8 o'clock thru 4 o'clock position. If you don't want it to stick, just quit moving it to the stops at the 8 and 4 o'clock positions. My dial is never moved to the lower hemisphere...beyond 9 and 3 o'clock, so the vent dial no longer sticks. As for HVAC system performance, I have no need or desire to use the full defrost or full upper vent positions. A blend position suits me fine.
10-06-2013 02:51 AM
Codyfox I can hardly wait to get mine fixed. I forced it and now I only get air out of the dash and floor vents, No defrost vents at all. Since I live in Ohio I need to get this fixed before the snow flies. Ford dealer probably wants $500 to fix this problem.
I would try fixing it myself, but I live in an apartment and since it's my only car, I don't want to break anything else in the process or be stuck trying to reassemble the dash.
09-30-2013 01:42 AM
MARVIN2828 Hmmmm I never would of known I have to check this out
09-27-2013 05:35 PM
roberted5 I discovered a few things that may help with sticky cables,it's just a weak spot in Focus's with high milage,even if you replace cables they may still stick.Mine did and this seemed to help.If you force it cables will stretch again then you have to replace cables.

If it's cold in morning,you used air the day before and your knobs are set to cool,let car warm up before moving knobs to full right or left.Just add enough warm air to loosen up that foam seal that seems to stick if left at full left for coldest air or for just vents in dash
Opposite if used heat day before.

If I don't forget I don't leave knobs full left or right when I park car or shut down for that day.

That foam-seal when door shuts to control air flow seems to stick when it's very hot or cold in cabin.Let car cool or warm up before moving knobs to extreme settings.The temp knob can get sticky or stiff also.If car warms or or cools down it will move easier also.
09-27-2013 02:40 PM
Phestezio mine started doing the same thing about 2 years ago, 2007 zx3, at first it would just get stuck on defrost and i could put a little force and it would free up until one day the cable just snapped... thinking it was just the cable i went to the junkyard and pulled 4 extra cables out of earlier model foci which have the same cable and connections and same blend door and door track, i also went ahead and got another track and 2 or 3 extra switches of each kind, i replaced the broken cable (hint: don't move any of the ac control switches after you disconnect them... it makes it slightly difficult to reattach them) and that fixed the nothing at all problem but the door still sticks to this day. i've thought that you could buy some AC cleaning foam that you inject into the blend doors and it fills up with soapy foam and drains out of the drain plug, my friend uses it at toyota occasionally, but i have yet to actually do anything about it, i rarely use my AC. Might try spraying a little silicon spray in there but i think a more permanent fix could be cleaning the entire blend door with the AC cleaning foam, however it may or may not work with the deteriorating rubber seals... only one way to find out for sure. has anyone tried cleaning the blend doors with AC system cleaning foam?
09-03-2013 09:19 PM
lgwayne Alright guys, everyone here is dead on accurate about the rubber seal on the blend door sticking. Wish I would have known about the silicon spray trick before I did the job, that woulda been nice!

This problem was driving me crazy for almost 2 years. I tried every jerry-rig method I could think of for a temp fix, but I decided it was time to do it for real this time. Pretty big deal considering I live in the midwest where defrost in the winter is a lifesaver.

The only real fix for this is to remove the entire heater core housing and replace. It is a hell of a job - removing the dash, crossbar member and all associated wiring harnesses. But I am an amateur and was able to handle the mechanics just fine; it just took a while. Took me a solid 3 days to get the job done. Get the Haynes manual - it is a must have.

What I did was practice ripping one of these cars apart at a pick & pull junkyard - that way you get to screw that car up instead of your own so you can learn what works and what doesn't. Pick a decent looking car, the idea being if it looks nice, it probably has lower miles on it, increasing the odds of getting a fully operable heater core housing. I lucked out in that area.

The part is I think in the neighborhood of $450 new but I got it at the junkyard for $60. You'll be able to inspect the blend door operation before you take it home obviously so make sure that checks out.

This job requires you to unhook your A/C hoses which will leak freon which is why its a good idea to vaccuum it out or have a shop do it. Reinstall heater core and have a shop recharge A/C unless you can do it yourself.

I'm almost positive this problem is created by excessive heat melting the little rubber flap that seals the blend door. Obviously it is designed to withstand the heat coming from your HVAC system, and I'm not sure of exact temps here, but I park outside usually and I'd notice after a couple days of inactivity things in my car (stickers, plastic, etc.) would be noticeably melted and I think that's what has happened here. Just speculation. I got one of those sun shades to keep the temp down in direct sunlight. Wish I had time and motivation for a full write up. In the mean time, good luck guys.

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