|08-13-2015 05:32 PM|
|dhouse||2 views of the same thing. One stop only.|
|08-13-2015 05:31 PM|
|dhouse||Got it. Works great.|
|08-13-2015 02:05 PM|
|dhouse||To hamlorac or davmac - Hi. I think I understand the location of picture 2, as it appears to be below the radio, right behind the hvac control panel, the three ribs being the unique i.d. of the spot. What I can not make out is the location of picture 3. Can u or anyone else shed a little more light on that. I don't want to put this all back together and only have one stop installed. Thanks|
|08-06-2015 05:42 PM|
As is typical my long winded answer missed the point.
My center bolt is mounted approximately in the center of the air box on the left side of those reinforcing ribs just as pictured. Pay attention to the photo for the vertical placement (kind of resting just above the ridge) because that determines where the bolt enters the air box. The horizontal placement is not too critical because you just want to keep the flap from completely closing and the flap is the entire width of the air box.
The center bolt I used was M8x1.25 x 25 or 35mm long
I'm sure M6 would also work as would 1/4-20.
The only critical adjustment is how much bolt is threaded into the air box. You need to be able to twist the knob to nearly the end of its range before the bolt stops the flap. Obviously you want the flap to nearly seal to have the intended effect of changing the air flow.
IIRC I just grabbed the damper door by hand using the lever at the side to confirm the fix before reassembly.
Good luck with your repair!
|08-06-2015 01:41 PM|
|dhouse||davmac - Agreed - it is brilliant and simple. My question was length and diameter of the center, stop bolt, and it's positioning, which I think is important to get right. I can't believe it would take much force to prevent the damper from over traveling. I'd think 6 mm diameter for the center, or stop bolt would be adequate. His photo's though excellent and close up, skew scale perception, hence the questions. His center / stop bolt appears to be 8 mm relative to the small self tappers. Thanks for your input and thanks to hamlorac. I'm grateful to be able to save my daughter a lot of money on this fix. She's one of those broke college students.|
|08-06-2015 09:55 AM|
Assuming the question is about the center top bolt:
That bolt is sticking into the heater box about 1/4 - 1/2 inch or 8-12mm.
The bolt length is not too important. There is some room at the top. You can see that hamlorac uses a clip nut and an additional nut on top of the Al stock to jam the bolt when it has been inserted just enough to keep the flapper from shutting completely.
I had a thicker piece of Al stock and drilled and tapped it. I also used a second jam nut so once adjusted you could jam (tighten the top nut down) the bolt in position.
I suspect you are making this more difficult then it really is. Hats off to hamlorac because the idea is ingenious. Execution is not that super critical. The tricky part is to barely keep the internal flap from fully reaching its end of travel where it tends to jam. Give it a shot. It is not too bad, works and saves a nice pile of money. Sadly I suspect a new air box is only a temporary fix anyway.
|08-06-2015 07:18 AM|
|dhouse||Is your stop bolt 6 mm, 8 mm ? How long ? Thanks|
|08-05-2015 07:18 PM|
|hamlorac||To dhouse....Because of a lack of welding equipment I was forced to use a front licence plate captive nut arrangement off a car, to provide a workable adjustment device.Before fitting the device on the heater box ,a tight hole was made for that nut to fit into the bracket,the nut pushed in and then the adjuster bolt was fully bottomed out to crush the cage so as to provide as flat a surface as possible and then to mount the device flush on the heater box. The offending flap runs the full width of the heater box and butts up against that one inch flange where the bracket will be mounted. The adjuster when fitted will stop that flap from jamming into the flange area.I used a metric licence nut,bolt and lock nut but you could use 1/4 inch pieces just as well. Drill an exploritory 1/8 inch hole in central position on that flange and put a straight wire through the hole and work the flap against the wire to grasp the concept.If you cant envision this idea then fill the hole with a old screw.Hope thats clear as muck.|
|08-05-2015 06:06 PM|
|dhouse||I'd like to try this fix. That appears to be a jack lock threaded insert. What are the sizes of bolt hardware used ? Measured distances to drill the stop hole would be helpful. it appears approximately centered, though the bottom one seems a bit offset upwards. Why not just use the jack nut alone or with a washer to spread the force. Thanks|
|03-28-2015 11:36 AM|
The fix outlined in post 21 works. I used this fix and it has worked for over 1 year. Don't bother with the dealer. I'm sorry you paid $450, but your control cables may have been shot and needed to be replaced anyway. You will strip the cables due to excessive force needed to move the sticky damper doors.
$1000 is to replace the heater box. That will also fix the problem.
All cars have these kinds of weak points that create pattern failures. No dealer is going to mess with this finicky repair, but I was willing and can verify it is effective.
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