|09-14-2014 05:34 AM|
|Tklein||NICE !! Thanks for this reply, lots of good info to get busy on !! Thanks; Tim Klein|
|12-29-2013 12:02 PM|
Ref. Sticking vent selector heater controls on 2006 ZX5.Remove drivers under dash panel,loosen hood cable nut and slide off, unclip data connector and set panel aside.Remove 4 screws from selector control ,cables attached, and let hang down. Unhook the black selector gate and feel the action of both front and rear flaps.The main culprit is the flap closest to the radio so as you move that flap you should feel the sticking or stuck condition at both of its far end positions.A deformed internal flap seal causes this jamming effect, so here follows my humble solution, that involves adjustable end stops.I used a 1/16" aluminum strip 3" long and bent up one end about 1/8" at 90 degrees and mounted it on the heater box with short self-tappers against the link of that flap to provide a forward stop.This stop should be carefully positioned so as not to allow the flap to drop into its sticky resting place.If you are close the aluminum is easy to bent so as to get a finer adjustment.The next step is to remove the radio surround panel,disconnect cigar lighter,remove the radio, pull two cables and set unit aside.Drill a hole in the heater box and install adjusting bolt bracket as shown in the photo. It is important to adjust these end stops as minimally as possible or the mechanism will bind. After the two stops are mounted a final check before reassembly is to install the black selector gate back in position and work "by hand" the mechanism through its full motion to confirm that no stickiness occurs in either of its end positions and that it transitions smoothly through its various modes.Although the flap is not technically as the designer intended, my air flow is normal and the cable controls work properly. The cost of materials is negligible and the labour maybe two hours work .The Ford car company does not need any more of our hard earned money so I hope this helps some other physically challenged heater boxes. The cost of materials was negligible and took maybe 2 hours, with a low difficulty scale.
|12-08-2013 07:38 PM|
|10-06-2013 02:51 AM|
I can hardly wait to get mine fixed. I forced it and now I only get air out of the dash and floor vents, No defrost vents at all. Since I live in Ohio I need to get this fixed before the snow flies. Ford dealer probably wants $500 to fix this problem.
I would try fixing it myself, but I live in an apartment and since it's my only car, I don't want to break anything else in the process or be stuck trying to reassemble the dash.
|09-30-2013 01:42 AM|
|MARVIN2828||Hmmmm I never would of known I have to check this out|
|09-27-2013 05:35 PM|
I discovered a few things that may help with sticky cables,it's just a weak spot in Focus's with high milage,even if you replace cables they may still stick.Mine did and this seemed to help.If you force it cables will stretch again then you have to replace cables.
If it's cold in morning,you used air the day before and your knobs are set to cool,let car warm up before moving knobs to full right or left.Just add enough warm air to loosen up that foam seal that seems to stick if left at full left for coldest air or for just vents in dash
Opposite if used heat day before.
If I don't forget I don't leave knobs full left or right when I park car or shut down for that day.
That foam-seal when door shuts to control air flow seems to stick when it's very hot or cold in cabin.Let car cool or warm up before moving knobs to extreme settings.The temp knob can get sticky or stiff also.If car warms or or cools down it will move easier also.
|09-27-2013 02:40 PM|
|Phestezio||mine started doing the same thing about 2 years ago, 2007 zx3, at first it would just get stuck on defrost and i could put a little force and it would free up until one day the cable just snapped... thinking it was just the cable i went to the junkyard and pulled 4 extra cables out of earlier model foci which have the same cable and connections and same blend door and door track, i also went ahead and got another track and 2 or 3 extra switches of each kind, i replaced the broken cable (hint: don't move any of the ac control switches after you disconnect them... it makes it slightly difficult to reattach them) and that fixed the nothing at all problem but the door still sticks to this day. i've thought that you could buy some AC cleaning foam that you inject into the blend doors and it fills up with soapy foam and drains out of the drain plug, my friend uses it at toyota occasionally, but i have yet to actually do anything about it, i rarely use my AC. Might try spraying a little silicon spray in there but i think a more permanent fix could be cleaning the entire blend door with the AC cleaning foam, however it may or may not work with the deteriorating rubber seals... only one way to find out for sure. has anyone tried cleaning the blend doors with AC system cleaning foam?|
|09-03-2013 09:19 PM|
Alright guys, everyone here is dead on accurate about the rubber seal on the blend door sticking. Wish I would have known about the silicon spray trick before I did the job, that woulda been nice!
This problem was driving me crazy for almost 2 years. I tried every jerry-rig method I could think of for a temp fix, but I decided it was time to do it for real this time. Pretty big deal considering I live in the midwest where defrost in the winter is a lifesaver.
The only real fix for this is to remove the entire heater core housing and replace. It is a hell of a job - removing the dash, crossbar member and all associated wiring harnesses. But I am an amateur and was able to handle the mechanics just fine; it just took a while. Took me a solid 3 days to get the job done. Get the Haynes manual - it is a must have.
What I did was practice ripping one of these cars apart at a pick & pull junkyard - that way you get to screw that car up instead of your own so you can learn what works and what doesn't. Pick a decent looking car, the idea being if it looks nice, it probably has lower miles on it, increasing the odds of getting a fully operable heater core housing. I lucked out in that area.
The part is I think in the neighborhood of $450 new but I got it at the junkyard for $60. You'll be able to inspect the blend door operation before you take it home obviously so make sure that checks out.
This job requires you to unhook your A/C hoses which will leak freon which is why its a good idea to vaccuum it out or have a shop do it. Reinstall heater core and have a shop recharge A/C unless you can do it yourself.
I'm almost positive this problem is created by excessive heat melting the little rubber flap that seals the blend door. Obviously it is designed to withstand the heat coming from your HVAC system, and I'm not sure of exact temps here, but I park outside usually and I'd notice after a couple days of inactivity things in my car (stickers, plastic, etc.) would be noticeably melted and I think that's what has happened here. Just speculation. I got one of those sun shades to keep the temp down in direct sunlight. Wish I had time and motivation for a full write up. In the mean time, good luck guys.
|08-17-2013 01:11 PM|
I got new cable on and I sprayed the door that slams shut with silicone spray.It helped but it's not a repair,door will stick again.
The rubber seal does get sticky,was so in my case,and then door gets stuck if left for over an hour.
I find that leaving vent knob one click from full left or right will keep it from sticking and you can move it to other spots when needed.
If you do go to full right or left it doesn't seem to stick if you only keep it at that position for a few minutes.
Other than that I see no fix,unless you clean out where you can't reach and replace the door you can't reach or tear the dash apart.
I accept it as a one of the weak points of a Focus.
|06-15-2013 05:22 PM|
I'll have to try what your saying.
To remove the center vent,I'm going to lube the blend door,is it needed to remove the radio?Is there any screws that need to come off?
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