|Today 01:33 AM|
To the best of my knowledge, the only way to clean the IAC valve is to take it off and clean it. Throttle body should also be cleaned. I ran out of time before I could do that part, couldn't reach to clean it. I was out of daylight, needed to get the IAC V. back on because I needed to go places the next day, no way I'd have been in any condition to get under there again the very next day and try again.
But soon I'll have to to, and I've figured out I'll need some flexible tubing to spray through to get at the TB. Can't do it with the little red tube that comes with the can, it won't stay on being twisted around to try to get the cleaner into the TB. I hope that will be enough.
The car doesn't surge and drop now, and doesn't die at idle, but it does want to die on start-up when it's warmed up to operating temp. I'm pretty sure it's because the flaps in the TB are sticking from all the carbon.
|Yesterday 07:59 PM|
You posted in a thread on cleaning the IAC, seafoam in the fuel will have exactly ZERO effect on the IAC as that goes through the fuel injectors just before the intake valves (way downstream of where the IAC is located in the intake).
RPM can be seen exactly when using the test mode of the odometer. Hold the reset button in while starting, after start you can release it then press repeatedly to page through functions.
|Yesterday 07:36 PM|
How many miles would be considered 'Higher Mileage Zetecs'?
Mine has 121K on it. I just bought it a couple of weeks ago and I am beginning to have no faith in anything the seller told me as I learn more about the car so I have no real history on it.
My Idle does tend to fluctuate up and down a little, I do not have a tach in my Dash so not sure what the range is.
How much of a positive impact will Seafoam have on this?
Would running a few can's through the next few fill ups help much?
Since I just bought the car so there are a few things ahead of it on the list of repairs.
Serviced the Trans last weekend so that seems to shift much better now.
Just posted on the Village Ford thread asking about Motor Mount Costs.
The Idle is getting closer to the top though so I will have to deal with it pretty soon.
|04-28-2016 02:59 AM|
Monday, I tackled it again. And I did it! Holy cats, I had a lot of trouble getting the thing off. I must've spent a good 2 hours before I finally got the trick of that top bolt. I'm glad I had picked up one of those little mirrors on a telescoping stick, it helped a lot.
Finally got the IAC valve off, and spent the next couple of hours cleaning it. Had to soak it repeatedly in acetone. Soak, scrub, soak, scrub, until I finally got the carbon cleaned out. Awful lot of crud on there, not surprised it wasn't working.
Let it dry out, then like to never got it back on again. At long last I did, though, ad that was the problem. The car is running well now, not dying at idle.
I suspect I'll have to take it off again, though, because I wasn't able to clean the throttle body very well. Since then I've thought of away I might be able to do it, maybe with only taking the bottom bolt off and a slight loosening of the top one. I might be able to swing it out of the way to access the holes in the TB. I'm hoping so, anyway. If not, now that I've done it once, maybe I can manage it more easily if I have to do it again.
The gasket trick was a huge help, I don't think I could've gotten the part on again without doing that. I never did find my leather punch. Paper hole-punch made a hole that was just slightly too big to hold the bolts. But I found my circular tip wood carving tool, that worked well enough. I was able to cut a hole just right, held the bolts securely.
It was such a PITA, I'm tempted to never ever do that particular job again. Bite the bullet and pay somebody else. But I did it, and it worked. My car is happy again, and so am I.
|04-02-2016 03:50 PM|
|amc49||If you end up cutting a custom gasket to hold bolt in place, start by threading the LOWER bolt in first, that locates the part to swing it and then get the upper in easier. I thread both bolts into gasket maybe two plus turns to hold them on the part. I also get both started in manifold without touching the wrench.|
|04-02-2016 04:47 AM|
I have a hard time with just feeling for it unless it's something I'm already familiar with. Even when I look to see where it is, then think I have it firmly in my mind, when I shift position, I often lose it. I think having the ratcheting 8mm will help. Once I get on the bolt, I won't have to keep taking the wrench off and re-finding it.
It'll be a few days before I get back to it, I have company coming from out of town.
|04-02-2016 01:35 AM|
'I find it much easier just to feel where the bolts are and go for it.'
Likewise, the hands are what are doing the work and they need the easiest access, that commonly means not looking at it. I look to locate spatial coordinates like starter closeness then shift my position once I have the area locked in my head. Most of the work is by feel only once you get in your head what you are touching.
|04-01-2016 12:22 PM|
I have found that attempting to look at the IAC while trying to remove/reinstall it is almost pointless. I find it much easier just to feel where the bolts are and go for it.
I use a combo wrench, but I guess anything that fits in there will work.
|04-01-2016 01:35 AM|
|jbear||On the OTC motion sickness stuff, I'd fall asleep under the car. If I made that far.|
|03-31-2016 08:18 PM|
|amc49||I seem to do quite well on OTC simple motion sickness pills for cheap, just never thought of doing them under the car.|
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|