|12-09-2012 03:28 PM|
OK, your barometer/MAP sort of sensor is just part of the MAF. Apparently your voltage is good according to the test mode. I'm fairly certain that the ECU sees the same thing as test mode does. Which leads me back to that you must have a grounding problem on the chassis somewhere.
Check the wires that come off your negative battery terminal. There is the big wire that goes to the engine, and then the 2 little wires that go to the chassis and into the wiring harness. I'm starting to think that your problem is the big wire. I have seen it before where an SVT ran on the ground strap wire I mentioned earlier until that finally melted through, and the engine stopped. All because the main ground wire was loose where it connects to the engine block. It can happen, that's why we first recommend checking battery terminals, then alternator output, then the other side of the battery terminal wires.
|12-04-2012 08:46 PM|
OK this is what the test gauge shows
(r 318) (nr 315) (dtffff) (cf 1,2,3,4 all 00) (dtc none) (E 0) ( 0 ) (59 44) (t 748-60)
(tg 247-258) (f 120) (fp 77) (fg 496) (79c) (c9 550) (bat 14.2-14.5 w/lights on 13.9-
14.2 ) (bf -o) (hb -9) (slp -6) (LC 95-96) (Cr -6) (PO 2) (P3 80) (P9 20)
(an0 169-173) (an1 86-88) (an2 64-65) (an3 86-88) (an4 86)
dont really know what ALL that means but maybe it will help.
Thanks for the time!
|12-04-2012 03:15 PM|
|focusmachnone||OK, whynothtinkwhynot, I put the dash in test mode and the battery shows a constant 14.5-14.9 at idle and at cruise. ???? But I will let it warm up and give you all the test data. Also where is the MAP sensor located on the 2.3 duratec? I have one and might as well replace it.|
|12-02-2012 09:14 PM|
|whynotthinkwhynot||Really? That could be indicative of something else. You might want to use the electronic odometer trick to monitor voltage while you drive. Key off, press and hold the odo reset button. Turn the key on, hold the odo reset button until the odo changes to [test]. Release the reset button. Now each time you press and release the reset button, you will scroll through one of 30 test functions. You're looking for the one that reads [bat 12.1] or in your case with a battery reading 13.1, you might show 12.9. Typically the reading is off by about .2v from what you measure on the battery. It will stay in test mode until you turn the key off, so if you start the car it will show alternator voltage while you drive. That way you can see for yourself if something is amiss with your alternator or nearly anything else. You might have a good alternator, but if the field wire is bad, then your alternator won't put out continuous voltage. Once the field wire breaks, as we've known people who have that problem, then you won't have alternator voltage whether the alternator is good or not.|
|12-02-2012 08:59 PM|
|focusmachnone||OK, cool, thanks, I will check those out this week. I appreciate you taking the time to read my post and offering advice on how to fix it. I was really lost. Will post later on anything I find. Probably will go a head and check ground on head. I noticed that my headlights flicker a little at idle but are fine during drive. If tach goes below 2K then I notice the flicker again but more evident during idle at 800.|
|12-02-2012 06:07 PM|
|whynotthinkwhynot||Wait.... all those are sensors.... which should get both hot and ground from the ECU. The PCM looks at the output voltage and compares that to the return voltage to "see" what's going on. It might be that your ground by the ECU is loose or the terminal is cracked. .|
|12-02-2012 06:05 PM|
Add some grounds. One that might be missing is a ground to the cylinder head. Yes, the big cable is connected to the transmission and the engine, but the intake manifold- where all these parts are likely grounded via the harness- is only connected by the intake manifold bolts. Typically there is a supplemental ground on the cylinder head. Find a screw or bolt somewhere that is holding down a bracket, and run a wire from there to the chassis.
Your problem could be on the hot side also, so you might want to investigate the harness that all those wires go into. IIRC, those should all spring from one harness. Look for any wiring damage.
|12-02-2012 05:49 PM|
|focusmachnone||Bump, to see if any answers. Also checked all the grounds on the car they seem to be tight and clean so I guess I will have to take it to a shop. Never had to do that before. HHMMM, where to take it. I will have to investigate. If anyone has an idea about these problems or a similar problem let me know.|
|12-01-2012 02:11 PM|
|focusmachnone||Ok had the battery and the Alternator checked and both show good. Battery 13.2 and Alternator charging at 14. something didnt see all of it. Ok going to check all grounds but then what. And where is the MAP sensor located. It is hard starting and that is a sign of a bad MAP (I have one so I might as well replace it)|
|12-01-2012 10:33 AM|
|focusmachnone||No work done to car recently. I was planning on getting the battery and Alternator checked out at AZ to day. I will post results when found.|
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