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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-28-2012 07:15 PM
H8VTEC Ok, the pump is getting power. I checked the connector with an ohmmeter. I also disconnected the fuel line on the fuel rail and i see fuel spitting out of the line. I'm guessing its going to be the FPDM.
12-15-2012 12:12 AM
H8VTEC
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
To simplify from the description & diagram, the two wires from the "Driver module" under the rear seat to the fuel pump - one power, one variable ground - either not functional to the pump is ONE failure mode.

The other failure mode is a bad fuel pump - wiring fault internally, or mechanically frozen.

So - If you go by the color codes & where the wires actually go, you can test for a continuous circuit right from the plug to the driver module under the rear seat. No continuity (ohm meter), either the wiring is damaged or the fuel pump is "fried".

If you have continuity, momentary application of 12v. power to those wires & the pump should run, if it doesn't it's "locked up" aka "frozen". and No - if it's locked up it won't work, so it won't pump anything...

luck!
Ok, so the pump being bad is out of the question then. I hear it come on and I'm getting 40PSI when the key is in the ON position.
12-14-2012 11:52 PM
sailor To simplify from the description & diagram, the two wires from the "Driver module" under the rear seat to the fuel pump - one power, one variable ground - either not functional to the pump is ONE failure mode.

The other failure mode is a bad fuel pump - wiring fault internally, or mechanically frozen.

So - If you go by the color codes & where the wires actually go, you can test for a continuous circuit right from the plug to the driver module under the rear seat. No continuity (ohm meter), either the wiring is damaged or the fuel pump is "fried".

If you have continuity, momentary application of 12v. power to those wires & the pump should run, if it doesn't it's "locked up" aka "frozen". and No - if it's locked up it won't work, so it won't pump anything...

luck!
12-14-2012 10:06 PM
H8VTEC Ok so to break down....
Causes:
Open or shorted FP PWR circuit
bad fuse, relay, inertia switch?
Open FP RTN circuit to FPDM
this is the wires from the fuel pump to the FPDM?
Locked fuel pump rotor
Would the pump kick on if its locked? Would I get fuel pressure?
Damaged FPDM
Self explanatory.
12-14-2012 09:35 PM
BC_ZX3 P1237 - Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Malfunction
Indicates that the FPDM has detected a fuel pump secondary circuit fault. The FPDM will send a message to the PCM through the FPM circuit, indicating that this failure has been detected. The PCM will set the DTC when the message is received.
Causes:
Open or shorted FP PWR circuit
Open FP RTN circuit to FPDM
Open or shorted circuit in the fuel pump
Locked fuel pump rotor
Damaged FPDM
The FPDM sends a 75% duty cycle (750 msec ON, 250 msec OFF) through the FPM circuit to the PCM while the fault is being detected by the FPDM. If the fault is no longer detected, the PCM will return to sending an "all OK" (50% duty cycle) message to the PCM. The PCM will keep P1237 stored in Continuous Memory.
The FPDM controls pump speed by supplying a "variable" ground on the RTN circuit.

12-14-2012 09:22 PM
H8VTEC Ok....replaced the fuel pump with a spring top fuel pump, had to cut the old bracket inside the tank....what a pain! It now gets 40psi but i got a code P1237. So i guess i have a short somewhere. Any suggestions on where to start?
12-08-2012 02:32 PM
H8VTEC
Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
Only 7 would sound fuel pump, not the FRPS. The sensor read 7 and you manually got 7, so it's working.

Pull the line before the Fuel Filter and see if that makes a difference. Hell, just replace the Fuel Filter being you're right there.
If there's no change you're going to be replacing the pump. How you want to go about that is up to you; cut an access hole or drop the tank.
Just make sure the pump you buy has the spring top (update pump).
I replaced the pump with a new one from a local parts store. I cut an access panel, way easier than removing the tank. What do you mean by spring top? Should i get it from the dealer?
12-07-2012 09:24 PM
iminhell Only 7 would sound fuel pump, not the FRPS. The sensor read 7 and you manually got 7, so it's working.

Pull the line before the Fuel Filter and see if that makes a difference. Hell, just replace the Fuel Filter being you're right there.
If there's no change you're going to be replacing the pump. How you want to go about that is up to you; cut an access hole or drop the tank.
Just make sure the pump you buy has the spring top (update pump).
12-07-2012 06:19 PM
H8VTEC Ok, checked fuel pressure manually and its only getting 7 psi. I changed the fuel pressure sensor and still no luck. Any other ideas?
12-07-2012 01:48 AM
H8VTEC
Quote:
Originally Posted by iminhell View Post
39 actually, but 7 is definitely under spec.
There's no easy way to do it but I'd almost put a mech. gauge on it and double check that pressure.

Did fuel spray out or did it stream out? Meaning, did it seem like there was good pressure.

Could be the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor is bad. If it sees low pressure it will send more voltage to the pump and actual pressure might be so high that the car floods almost instantly.
Fuel didnt spray out, but it did push it out....but not 45psi like.i'll check pressure tomorrow with a mechanical gauge. I'll connect it after fuel filter.
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