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Thread: Heat not working. Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-25-2012 03:19 PM
Fattie thanks , its nice having heat again.
11-25-2012 02:49 PM
markwb Well, good to hear you have resolved the problem. Don't be too hard on yourself now, we all can make mistakes at times. Congratz on the fix! :) stay warm.....
11-25-2012 02:41 PM
Fattie so i feel like a complete moron. after replacing all the parts all it was was a fuse.

now i had checked all the regular size fuses , but i never checked the really big ones under the hood. sure enough , the 40 amp was blown , 3.50 $ later i had working heat.

i really feel dumb. but now i have heat again , and an extra blower motor , switch and thermal fuses.
11-18-2012 02:34 PM
sailor Shucks Dang!

Your results just reminded me of hearing that it's a "switched ground" system...

So, remembering the no power at the motor result you got, the culprit is likely in the power supply side.

Blade type fuses have test ports on the top, you can probe for power on both sides without removing them to both check the fuse & see if the circuit has power...
Luck!
11-18-2012 11:26 AM
Fattie
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
Fuse, Switch, resistor, motor.

In order of ease to check, you already checked for power at the motor - so next check the fuse for power on both sides (installed) - then look for power at the resistor pack & lastly the switch (just 'cause it's hardest to access).

FWIW, a good procedure with the meter is to test a known good 12v. source, to make sure you've got a good ground & the meter is working/set right.

Just hooking to metal doesn't always work due to ungrounded parts or poor connections. (getting fooled is easy, getting dependable results takes some effort)

Luck!
thanks , i tested my other focus' heat at the blower motor and when the switch was off both wires read about 11.5 then with the switch on 4 one wire read 11.5 the other read 0.
11-17-2012 05:07 PM
sailor Fuse, Switch, resistor, motor.

In order of ease to check, you already checked for power at the motor - so next check the fuse for power on both sides (installed) - then look for power at the resistor pack & lastly the switch (just 'cause it's hardest to access).

FWIW, a good procedure with the meter is to test a known good 12v. source, to make sure you've got a good ground & the meter is working/set right.

Just hooking to metal doesn't always work due to ungrounded parts or poor connections. (getting fooled is easy, getting dependable results takes some effort)

Luck!
11-17-2012 01:48 PM
Fattie
Quote:
Originally Posted by LouBomb View Post
did you check your coolant?
lol , yea. the blower motor doesnt have power. nothing to do with the heater core.
11-16-2012 12:39 PM
LouBomb did you check your coolant?
11-16-2012 12:22 PM
Fattie thank you for your help
11-15-2012 08:29 PM
markwb
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fattie View Post
results , one wire read .25 , the other would go to .10 then right down to 0.

so there is a little power im guessing , but i think i have a short somewhere.
There is no power at the connector (+12vdc) This is certainly not good. A ventilation control schematic will be necessary. We do not know how or if power to operate the blower is coming direct from speed changer switch or relay controlled or what not.
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