|11-22-2012 05:12 PM|
rpo, nothing personal but your last post has figit room all in it. You're being somewhat vague and it does not help to fix your problem. What EXACT BRAND are your 'dealer' parts? If not FORD specifically, well, there is part if not all of your problem.
I like much cheaper parts that what Mr. Ford sells too, but in the case of engine and transmission mounts for Focus cars that is almost always a mistake.
To someone earlier, the torque converter clutch cannot partially release to cause vibration unless it is affecting idle speed, the idle will appear to fluctuate more. Car will also have a tendency to try to die or die outright right at the slowest speed point of the braking since dragging converter will drag motor speed down to try to die. If motor idling clean as far as speed there then not converter. Generally the hydraulic issue that causes converter clutch dragging goes pretty much the other way from intended, it would be odd indeed to have the clutch pressure modulated so perfectly that the clutch barely kisses the friction surface to simply vibrate but not pull idle down to die.
Low idle speed can easily be slightly clogged PCV or aircrack at throttle blade too.
Oh, uh, happy Thanksgiving y'all....................
|11-22-2012 03:01 PM|
Engine operation seems to be the place to keep looking when you can.
Starting simple, and checking basics, will at least rule out some possibilities - and it's normal maint. you'd do sometime anyways.
1. Pull plugs, check deposits & condition, check wires & coil.
2.Run a compression test while the plugs are out for baseline numbers & to rule out mechanical issues.
3. A little deeper, consider checking cam timing - especially if the belt is getting a bit "old".
4. Off track a bit, check the serpentine & everything it drives to make sure things are turning smoothly - something to look at if it turns out your timing belt is due for replacement. Don't want to miss a possible issue by skipping right past it!
5. And anytime you happen to peek under the hood, just look at things to see if they look "right". Wiring connectors & routing, same for vacuum connections & lines, it HAD run right before - so we're looking for anything that might have given up the ghost or been damaged somehow....
|11-22-2012 11:59 AM|
I have a passenger mount and transmission mount new from dealer. The Torque Strut Mount was new as well, but I found the vibration was greater with the new one than with the old one so I put the old one back. I am thinking of ordering a Torque Strut Mount from RockAuto. The Torque Strut Mount I got from the dealer looked used and may have been returned. I don't know if the Torque Strut Mount could be responsible for the vibrations. My old one looks better than the new and the dealer wouldn't take it back because it had been installed. As for the transmission, it works perfectly right now so I am reluctant to touch it for anything other than a fluid change.
I must be getting used to the vibration as I feel it less and it does help my back like a vibrating lazy boy, but I don't what this to damage any thing else in the car so the hunt for the vibration will continue .... next paycheck.
|11-22-2012 04:30 AM|
Disagree all you like but if you knew anything about balancing you'd know why 4 cylinders vibrate more than others. All the other cars with 4 cyl were either RWD (2 opposing 90 degree rubber mounts, one on each side of motor) or if FWD, had 4 point mount (or more) which stops it much better than 3 point mount which Focus has. One of Ford's mistakes. Quite literally there is nothing on the engine itself to restrict the motor moving front or rear, the damping is mostly up and down. The secondary vibration of a four is partially front/rear, once the hydro mount loosens up it does not damp that out any more as it barely did even when mount was new. In fact, once mount is dead it does not dampen in the up direction much either, only down. The reason for the 'Focus shake'.
While anything is possible, it would be extremely unusual for the transmission to cause it. If trans is working correctly other than that complaint, it will most likely be a mistake insisting that someone pull or disassemble trans to stop vibration on these cars. There is simply no up/down or side to side moment to make vibration in trans, it all rotates.
First part you should be looking at is the passenger side engine mount, that's where most of it comes from although others can contribute.
|11-21-2012 08:29 AM|
If you have not had a transmission service in the last 60k miles do it it will be money will spent. I believe in the old fashioned service by dropping the transmission pan changing the filter and topping-up with ford transmission fluid.
I do not believe in those expensive flushes they are trying to push and in most case they do more damage then good and are more expensive. The dropping of the pan method should cost no more then $100 This may not help the vibration but it will help make your transmission last much longer.
|11-20-2012 07:21 PM|
I have considered the transmission as the source but will approach that as a last resort as anything transmission related work is expensive. The vibration is intermittent. When the car first starts cold, there is very little vibration and some days there is none. After a few minutes, the vibration increases and after driving for more than 30 minutes the vibration is strong. Pulling up to a red light is tough as the vibration reaches its maximum just as the car stops.
I read in many places that vibration on a 4 cylinder engine is normal and that all 4's will vibrate. I disagree. I have owned 4 cylinder cars for the past 40 years and the Focus is the first that has given me vibration problems. All the others have developed a shake if there was a vacuum leak or a bad plug, but I have never had a vibration like this.
I'm thinking I may have the fluid changed and the transmission adjusted after Christmas as I know it will be over $250.00
|11-20-2012 06:51 PM|
I have read on youtube a mechanic commenting that most vibration complaints come from auto cars he believes the torque converter in the trans not releasing properly at idle. This is a known problem with Ford torque converters. I also have the same problem and my idle is around 590 rpm in drive. The tranny issue seems to make sense.
In my case I do not believe it's the engine mounts, but the vibration is consistent.
|11-20-2012 11:23 AM|
|11-19-2012 11:51 PM|
There is a You Tubedeo named: "Zetec Engine Rough Idle - Issue solved"
In a nutshell, the person thought it was his MAF, turned out to be a crack in his air tube under the throttle body (vacuum leak).
|11-19-2012 09:24 PM|
|rpokorny||I replaced all 3 although none looked bad. The dog bone and the transmission mount actually looked like new. The passenger mount had no cracks in it, but it did feel like it lacked any fluid inside.|
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