|11-25-2012 03:19 PM|
|Fattie||thanks , its nice having heat again.|
|11-25-2012 02:49 PM|
|markwb||Well, good to hear you have resolved the problem. Don't be too hard on yourself now, we all can make mistakes at times. Congratz on the fix! :) stay warm.....|
|11-25-2012 02:41 PM|
so i feel like a complete moron. after replacing all the parts all it was was a fuse.
now i had checked all the regular size fuses , but i never checked the really big ones under the hood. sure enough , the 40 amp was blown , 3.50 $ later i had working heat.
i really feel dumb. but now i have heat again , and an extra blower motor , switch and thermal fuses.
|11-18-2012 02:34 PM|
Your results just reminded me of hearing that it's a "switched ground" system...
So, remembering the no power at the motor result you got, the culprit is likely in the power supply side.
Blade type fuses have test ports on the top, you can probe for power on both sides without removing them to both check the fuse & see if the circuit has power...
|11-18-2012 11:26 AM|
|11-17-2012 05:07 PM|
Fuse, Switch, resistor, motor.
In order of ease to check, you already checked for power at the motor - so next check the fuse for power on both sides (installed) - then look for power at the resistor pack & lastly the switch (just 'cause it's hardest to access).
FWIW, a good procedure with the meter is to test a known good 12v. source, to make sure you've got a good ground & the meter is working/set right.
Just hooking to metal doesn't always work due to ungrounded parts or poor connections. (getting fooled is easy, getting dependable results takes some effort)
|11-17-2012 01:48 PM|
|11-16-2012 12:39 PM|
|LouBomb||did you check your coolant?|
|11-16-2012 12:22 PM|
|Fattie||thank you for your help|
|11-15-2012 08:29 PM|
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