|11-24-2012 01:18 PM|
OK, back again with my update and ?'s.
So, got t-stat O-ring. was going to change, but am going to hold because....
Got car in the air, and thought I'd look over the underside before I drained coolant. Noticed coolant drip on A/C compressor. YAY!!
So, I know I'm gonna have fun now. No water out of weep hole, just wet around water pump housing. Which brings up the question, about how long should it take to change the pump, and timing belt? Sitting on a solid 141,xxx unmolested 01 zetec. Will do t-stat o-ring then, too. Standard DIY with hand tools, and a few pnuematic low power stuff. PITA, no dought.
|11-22-2012 07:54 AM|
|cyfocus01||Sweet. Thanks. I'll stop in there tomorrow and try that number. That's nice its an o-ring and not a gasket, too.|
|11-22-2012 07:12 AM|
|G Ford Fan||
The part number at napa for the t stat o ring is: 1087
Ztw: not sure on that...i believe you could be correct....wagon with a ztec?
No, rtv alone i would not recommend....you need a new o ring, but also coat the new o ring with a little (don't goop it on heavy) blue rtv , but let the rtv cure overnight before you put coolant back in the system or run the car....
|11-21-2012 09:59 PM|
Good info here, finding it usefull.
Couple questions: ZTW, wagon with a ztec? and a gasket to t-sat?
Reason being, my 01 ZTS with ztec leaks at the bottom of the t-stat housing, right where those 3 screws are and the upper rad hose attatches. No problems with t-stat, just the leak, "leaving its mark" for a while.
My NAPA guy only could find t-sat and the o-ring for main housing. Do you recall the part number for the t-stat gasket? Or do you think I can get away with an RVT gasket?
|11-20-2012 10:09 AM|
|G Ford Fan||
I know it's old (original), but the car only has 45K on it and it's working perfectly so I figured I'd just stick with it.
THanks for the feedback!
|11-19-2012 07:51 PM|
|amc49||They MUST have the disc on back of stat on these or heater does not work, you'll find them.|
|11-19-2012 02:03 PM|
|G Ford Fan||
Update, Job done......some thoughts.
I wanted to thank everyone who posted in this tread with suggestions. I very much appreciate them.
I have some thoughts on the job after having finished it this past weekend. I have been turning wrenches for over 20 yrs now, both professionally for ahile (not anymore) and on my cars and equipment.
1) this job is a PITA as far as water pump jobs go. I ended up having to remove the a/c compressor, a/c compressor bracket, motor mount and drop the motor about 3" to get the pump back in without messing up the gasket and small amount of blue RTV I put on the o-ring. I have a vehicle lift in my shop and I still ended up on the ground when I had to let the motor down with a floor jack!
2) If i had this to do over again, I'd opt for a motorcraft water pump eventhough it's twice the cost. The NAPA "new" replacement is OK and is not leaking, but the hub where the fan mounts is different and the water pump pulley fit on very tight. The pump itself also did not seem to fit the cavity in the housing as snugly as the OEM pump did. Again, it's not a HUGE difference, but I noticed it so I wanted to make mention of it.
3) my original 12 yr old pump was not leaking, but I had a gasket failure (the rubber o-ring failed). I speculate this may have had something to do with the major front end collision my grandpa had with the car when it was about 2 or so yrs old, but I could never prove that fact. Sometimes these things can take years to show up and I suspect the big jolt may have slightly hurt that gasket and it just took a long time to show up as based on the condition of the bottom of the pump, it had been leaking to some degree or another for a long time now.
Although a PITA, it's a job well worth tackling as I can see how shops would want $600.00 to do this job (parts and labor). I also flushed my cooling system while I was at it.
I did replace the gasket on the stock thermostat, but not the thermostat itself as Napa did not have one in stock and the stock one has a check valve in it, I don't think some of the aftermarket ones do. I also put a slight amount of blue RTV on the gasket for the thermostat as well, then let the car sit overnight (about 24 hrs give or take) before i put any water back into the system and ran the car.
So far so good, no leaks.
Thanks again guys.
|11-14-2012 10:13 AM|
|G Ford Fan||
excellent, thanks so much gents!
That was my game plan, I think I'm going to hold off on the housing as I don't think it's leaking there, I think it's the T-stat cover to housing seal that's leaking and I did not put any RTV on that before when I had the T-stat out prior.
I will do so this time and see how it is.
The ater pump seems a bit challenging, but I'm going to give it a go this weekend hopefully.
It's currently "marking it's territory" HAHAHA. (not severe, a small spot each time i stop and i checked the fluid level this morning and it's still at the full mark)
I was also going to put a very thin bead of blue RTV on the water pump o-ring/seal as well, not much, enough that you can still see through it just for good measure.
I also think/agree it's HIGHLY important to let the RTV dry overnight before adding water. When I was younger I never did that and sometimes had leaks. I started allowing it to dry first a few years ago and have not had any problems.
One last thing, do you all think I should just spend the $100 and get a new ford water pump or try the $50.00 NAPA job. I'm tempted to just buy the Ford and be done with it......but if the NAPA ones are good quality and will last for ahwile, I'd rather save the $50.00. I'm just concerned with fitment, as sometimes the aftermarket stuff is just a bit off and that can cause leakage problems down the line.
|11-14-2012 01:26 AM|
I just cleaned the housing, the mating surface on the head, and put in a new gasket...
I smeared Ultra-Black RTV into the housing groove, installed the gasket/o-ring, then smeared Ultra-Black over the gasket/o-ring and housing mating area...........
On the thermostat side I smeared some Ultra-Black RTV around the o-ring.
Let dry before adding water.
It's not leaking, and hopefully never will.........
|11-14-2012 01:01 AM|
Loosen water pump pulley bolts before you remove the belt, easier.
Don't overtighten the new housing, only run bolts down until they hit solid and no more. Any more and all you do is preload the housing so it cracks early. If leaking between front stat cover and housing itself, the crush on the stat gasket is not very much, I've added a .040" thick washer suitably ground to fit same OD as stat and glued it on top of stat to add more crush without buying new cover. Still working now years later. Of course you can have no crack in cover.
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