|11-10-2012 02:11 AM|
Hi, just checked in again,glad your compression looks OK (like Whynot I go for simple first just in case...)
It MIGHT not be square 1 time yet, did you get a chance to check voltage at the battery with a volt meter? Since the alternator in these ISN'T independent of the car's electrical system, there still may be a voltage issue even if the alternator by itself "tested good".
I'm reading this WAY too late at night to feel like looking up the exact details right now, but that alternator pigtail mentioned ion an earlier post is basically a communications link letting the car know when the alternator is working hard so the engine needs more throttle to maintain rpm, as well as a link to the alternator telling IT how much power is needed.....
Kinda generic description, but maybe helpful when looking at "this wire is ground", "this wire is batt. voltage", "this wire signals the computer, and should show Blank voltage range"
So, step 1 is seeing if it's working right as a system with an independent meter.
(Just to check EVERYTHING)
'cause the system voltages you reported earlier would potentially raise havoc with the car's systems....
|11-09-2012 09:14 PM|
|oramman87||Had the alt tested 4 times they said it was good. Back to square 1|
|11-09-2012 06:38 PM|
|oramman87||It's about 45 min south of nashville but the car is at my fathers house in Spring hill I am gonna check out the yellow pages and get it rebuilt. Plus the new one is 175 at advance.|
|11-09-2012 05:49 PM|
|wannabe_svt||Hit it right on the nose|
|11-09-2012 05:44 PM|
You needa alternator, your VR is kaput. I suggest a local rebuild. Those guys are in every YP or business section, or ask around at parts stores who does the best rebuild. The idea is that they will be more interested in using higher quality parts to rebuild the alternator because returns are more damaging to that business model.
Where is Belfast? Believe it or not, I found a rebuilder in Crossville, which is not that big of a place.
|11-09-2012 05:13 PM|
|oramman87||On the test mode on the dash my battery is saying any where from 17 up to 19. I know that's not normal...|
|11-07-2012 09:31 AM|
|oramman87||I have replaced the pcv line already that is where my focus journey started. I did get the part from ford no heater hose. Thank you for all the advice, I am just determined to fix the damn thing now. When we took off the old iac I told dad there should be a gasket we couldn't find one. I stopped spraying carb cleaner a good bit back and went with a smoke test on the vacuum lines. I am even thinking Mabey some how we were off a tooth or two when we did the timing. But my father and I checked and double checked our work when we did it. I am not giving up I believe I saw the connector for the alt while I was going after the iac. I know this is prolly something simple and I have been going over the basics and trying to control my anger. I have been driving my 86 silverado for the mean time and she loves the gas lmao killing my wallet. I did replace the wires and I replaced the pigtail for the coil soldered then heat shrink. But thanks agin for the advice and giving me options instead of pulling at my hair.|
|11-07-2012 05:37 AM|
Those are the right plugs. Sorry, I have a theory for diagnosis where I look for the simplest cause that has been overlooked.
On that PCV line, low idle conditions are caused by the PCV collapsing under idle. Like AMC wrote, it most likely occurs at the elbow where the vacuum line enters the intake. Ford makes an insulated replacement that is supposed to prevent this problem.
Alternator problems are a big deal for this car. There are issues with the VR plug-in connector similar to the coil problems, and issues with the wiring leaving that connector being either melted in the harness or broken. Intermittent shorts are possible. We also have experienced weak VRs in most rebuilds inspiring me to recommend that everyone seek out a local rebuilder because the business model for those guys encourages the use of better parts. You can check your alternator output using the electronic odometer test mode while you drive the car. Simply press and hold the trip reset button with the key off, then turn the key on, and continue to hold. The odo display will change to read [test], and you can release the reset button. Now each time you press and release the odo reset button you will scroll through one of about 30 test functions. You are looking for the one that reads [bat 12.1] which is what is should read with your battery reading 12.3v at the terminals. I've noticed a .2v difference in mine, but you can't ride around under the hood with a multi-meter on the battery. There is also a FP readout that will give you fuel pressure, but it might display in KPas instead of PSI. The temp readout is definitely in C instead of F. The DTC code display doesn't work very well, and should be ignored. You should also remember that this readout is dependent on sensors, for example, some people who have bad temp sensors will have the readout jumping around and showing ridiculous temps like 200C, but you check it with an infrared thermometer and get nothing close to that. The same would go for a fuel sensor- if it was bad, then it might give bad readings back that you could double check with a mechanical gauge installed in the fuel line.
I think your problem is eventually going to end up being more simple than that, but your level of frustration might go over the moon before then.
|11-06-2012 09:08 PM|
Am I blind? I see mention of plugs changed but no wires. Simply pulling wires on these often breaks the carbon string inside to not idle right. Check for resistance, more than 5K ohms per foot of length and they are bad. Also, technically there are TWO PCV hoses, one in front and one that attaches to very bottom of intake, where it gives the most trouble. Most problems right where the hose enters intake, it sucks through side of hose where it has softened from continued exposure to fuel solvents. There is NO EGR hose that connects to PCV, that steel tube continues to the PCV valve up front and the second rubber hose I speak of. If IAC pulled did you known recover old gasket or rubber seal? Some use a flat paper gasket and some use a double circle rubber o-ring cast as one part. Either can have a tendency to stick to intake, if you put new part on with gasket, it will have two stacked and leak like sieve especially if the rubber one. Very hard to see up in there without a folding mirror. A local lean area at a vacuum hose leaking trips PCM into richening ALL cylinders since that is all it can do, meaning seeming rich is often a lean problem. 12.33 volts is not good either, that is around when batteries often start making car have seeming idle problems. A known good battery is 12.6 to 12.8 volts. Charge battery up FULLY and check alt output, dying alt can produce this stuff once battery is low enough.
Like he says, quit spraying carb fluid to find leaks, you're going to blow yourself up.
|11-06-2012 10:30 AM|
|oramman87||The plugs are all at .51 they are really really black when I pull them. The motor craft plugs are sp-478. I will check the tps signal I am sure there is a how to. I have pulled every vacuum line on the car except for the hard egr tube that connects to the pcv valve and checked them all over. There is no black smoke from the exhaust. I replaced the pigtail for the coil. When I turned on the rear defroster last night the rpms jumped then slowly went back down jumped agin then the car stalled.|
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