|10-28-2012 10:07 AM|
|10-28-2012 12:04 AM|
You need to do a datalog and stop guessing , a datalog will show fuel psi and in most cases show you whats wrong , do some datalogging
|10-27-2012 08:21 PM|
this is what i believe is my issue as well, it will start for a bit then die.
have you had it keep running for any amount of time? i had mine start but stutter while driving(accelerating and when getting on it) then would idle down and die at stops.
|10-27-2012 05:56 PM|
The voltage to the pump works like the , the 12 volt hot is hot all the time so if you check the 12v + side it will show good
The Focus fuel pump works off a ground base and the ground is regulated so you would need to check both the + and the - side to confirm you have both at the fuel pump wiring after the fuel pump module
|10-27-2012 12:07 PM|
|whynotthinkwhynot||Let us know how the diagnosis goes so we can continue to help you. You're inspiring me to eventually write a "Safety First" How-To once we get done with some re-arranging. Don't feel bad, safety is now my job at work in an industrial chemical setting, so I think about that stuff a lot. Sometimes those "old fashioned" diagnostic ideas aren't as smart as you'd think. There's no sense in sticking your face up a horses butt to see what it's been eating when you can just wait for it to poop on the ground.|
|10-27-2012 12:03 PM|
|10-27-2012 12:02 PM|
In case the inertia switch is bad for some reason- which is doubtful- unplug it, and use some wire to bridge the 2 points on the connector. That will bypass the inertia switch completely.
The fuel pump module is under the back seat on the passenger side. There's not a whole lot you can do here except check to see that there is 12v on the input side when the key is ON. The fuel pump connects to it on the side that goes through the floor.
Problems with the fuel sender might cause issues, but I'm unsure how to diagnose. I would expect a DTC from that one. I wouldn't expect a DTC from a bad fuel pump, or inertia switch.
Your start problem- runs for up to 30 seconds then dies- seems to me like the fuel system is allowing some fuel to get in the lines, then it when that runs out the engine dies. Since you've opened the lines up to air now- it might not do that again.
Um, for future reference, I don't recommend disconnecting fuel lines, and then cranking the engine to see if fuel comes out. I'm sorry I don't have pics, but I do have a friend who can tell you that the smallest spark you can't see from a bad spark plug wire will ignite that fuel and give you 3rd degree burns quicker than you can figure out how to put the flames out. He can also tell you how someone blasting an ABC extinguisher on you can give you lung problems even if it does stop the flames. Keep that stuff in mind next time you want to test fuel and use the electronic odometer trick to find fuel pressure- look for the reading [FP 111] in kpas. If you need to double check the fuel sensor for whatever reason, then get another under-hood fuel line and cut in a mechanical FP gauge.
|10-27-2012 10:26 AM|
Find the relay, then find another in the bay that is the same one. Swap them. See if that helps or if the other system controlled by the same relay now doesn't work with the swap. You'll eliminate the relay as a problem. There should be several of the same ones under the hood.
I can get you some relays from the yard if need be...
|10-27-2012 10:01 AM|
E The 00-02 had fuel pump problems. Doubt it's the wires unless they got damaged some how. They were well wrapped and insulated.
The relay should make a clicking noise as it switches.
|10-27-2012 09:44 AM|
|beat3rfocus||Check the wires under the seat from the wiring swap.|
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|