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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-27-2012 12:58 AM
bumble21 I know what your saying. Brakes are the most important thing in a car, if they don't work your fk'ed I was just saying was all. Torque is 174 ft lbs from all data when I did mine iirc . I do understand the rear brake drum setup. It is the same as pretty much any drum setup. Just like anything else in a car if you don't know how to do it don't bother. It'll cost you more to replace something 3 times then just having a professional doing it. Pushing in the brake pedal is what makes the adjuster automatically adjust that is all I was tying to say as for my last post
10-26-2012 04:15 PM
xxMichaelAnthony It would be nice if people actually knew our rear brake set up before they started spouting a bunch of useless info about a different drum setup.

Adjust the cam on the bar to the shortest position. The drum will go right back on. Firmly push the pedal once after its all back together and its adjusted where it need to be.


The hub is a sealed bearing. No need to turn the drum while tightening the hub nut to seat the bearing like you have to do with tapered bearings. The hub nut is torqued to 173ft/lbs IIRC
10-26-2012 03:49 PM
amc49 Trying to be patient..........

Don't know where you got the '10 turns' thing from but it is totally and absolutely worthless. The torque is around 200 ft.lbs. on the nut, anything else and bearing is scrap.

Your last post says absolutely nothing. There is NO ADJUSTING THESE when brake goes back together, you make them way too loose so drum goes on easy and first time brake is worked they adjust automatically if you put it back together right.

Reason for animosity is that you are working on brakes, anything else is moot. Brakes can KILL YOU and SOMEBODY ELSE too, if you are not 100% clear on what to do you should not be touching them.

Forgive me for being a jerk.
10-26-2012 02:31 AM
bumble21 As for why the drum won't go on the adjuster in the drum style brake acts similarly to the piston in caliper brakes. It keeps the shoes/pads close to the contact surface so when you depress the pedal the pads do not have to travel far to creat contact. Just like how you must depress the piston in calipers to get them back over the pads and rotors you must bring the adjuster back to close to put a drum back on. This is why "pumping" the brake system after service is necessary to push the pads back to where they almost touch the metal
10-26-2012 02:27 AM
bumble21 I honestly don't understand the animosity. Forums are here for people to learn and share from what I know everyone on this forum used to know nothing about cars cut him a break. Bdah I found it easiest to adjust this by taking a thin flat head screwdriver and lightly tapping it to get it to close, sometimes if its old it'll get jammed a little and take some finesse to get the teeth moving. Also just as whynot said make sure to torque the nut correctly. I believe the procedure is 10 turns counterclockwise while torquing the nut down to get it to seat the nut on the bearing properly. If you don't you'll be replacing the drum in like 6 months from the deafening humming you'll get (been there its quite obnoxious lol) good luck
10-26-2012 12:06 AM
amc49 He just said so, if you are going to question it you won't get much more help...............

Nothing personal but if you can't figure it out you don't belong working on brakes.

You swing the 1/4 circle shaped quadrant on the bar with the little spring on it one way or the other to make shoe setup wider or narrower. Can't make it any clearer than that.......

After that one or two times pushing down on brake pedal will adjust it if you put it together right.
10-25-2012 09:38 AM
bdahlka
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkyle View Post
You have to adjust the bar or "adjuster" to the smallest distance, Then put the drum on and pull the parking brake a few times to set the shoes out to the drum. Make sure to torque the spindle nut properly so you dont waste the bearing.

How is this accomplished? Is this why i cant seem to get the drum on?
10-24-2012 06:15 PM
whynotthinkwhynot
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffkyle View Post
You have to adjust the bar or "adjuster" to the smallest distance, Then put the drum on and pull the parking brake a few times to set the shoes out to the drum. Make sure to torque the spindle nut properly so you dont waste the bearing.
Yes that's correct, however the next time you take your drum off, try removing the 4 bolts holding the hub instead of the big nut that holds the drum to the hub. It's much easier, and about all you need is some blue thread lock.
10-24-2012 02:23 PM
TerryB I had the same problem. I ended up camfering the edges of the pads to get them started. Then I tapped the drum on opposite sides to get them on.
10-24-2012 02:19 PM
jeffkyle You have to adjust the bar or "adjuster" to the smallest distance, Then put the drum on and pull the parking brake a few times to set the shoes out to the drum. Make sure to torque the spindle nut properly so you dont waste the bearing.
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