|10-30-2012 04:57 AM|
|Mitch1989||Glad you figured it out. I'll keep your issues in mind in case they happen to me! :)|
|10-29-2012 06:13 PM|
UPDATE Put a new relay in.....NOT
Put a new starter switch in.... NOT! Crap have to pull the starter....
Several hours later..and parts store gave me the WRONG starter.
More bleeding from my hands and arms. Correct starter..works!
After a week of driving the problem is resolved.
Thanks to all who replied-Neil
|10-14-2012 05:21 PM|
Why, That looks like the narrowed field is. Logic monster says the back side of the engine isn"t thta hot. But.....If it is the original starter, it has had some cycles on it.
I looked at the removal, and I hate to think what my not so small hands will look like after this excercise.
|10-14-2012 05:13 PM|
I've seen the ignition switch do this, but I usually expect other problems associated with a bad ignition switch. I'd hate for you to replace it, and that not be the problem.
I'm sort of miffed by the starter relay having burnt looking pins too. All that relay should do is provide a way for the PATS and NS switch to prevent the car from starting. The inertia switch cuts off the fuel pump, so it's obviously working. The starter relay breaks the hot going to the solenoid (the real starter power relay) so that the car won't start either in gear or without the transponder signal from the RFID chip in the key.
Is there anywhere in your area that rebuilds starters? Look in the YP and see if you can find a local rebuilder, either that or ask at local shops. That's who uses those, and what keeps that business in business. Most of the time a local rebuilder will rebuild your starter or alternator cheaper than you can purchase one at a parts store. The work is typically more reliable too because returns are more damaging to small businesses. We've found that local alternator rebuilds are much more reliable.
An old man somewhere in the back of my mind is telling me that an engine that won't start hot has a problem with the starter solenoid.
|10-14-2012 04:53 PM|
|223splatfactor||It's an AT-I don"t think there is room for a hammer !!!!!!!|
|10-14-2012 04:18 PM|
|BC_ZX3||Um, I know it's crude, but have you considered giving the starter a gentle nudge with a rubber mallet? (I'd put it in gear and bump start it if it were a MTX to isolate the starter motor as the problem.)|
|10-14-2012 03:48 PM|
Yes, I'm a former electrictian, and I always shoot the ground first.
It just failed about an hour ago, fuel pump frimes-dash light do the self check.....and nothing. Wife is stuck at Walmart, her team is playing right now, and she is NOT happy !! Me either!!!!! Neil
|10-14-2012 03:44 PM|
|whynotthinkwhynot||BTW... did you check your grounding? We had another FF with a similar problem that was due to grounding. There should be one big wire off the negative battery terminal that goes to the engine block. There should be a copper shoelace that goes from the engine to the chassis, and 2 small ground wires that go from the negative battery terminal to the chassis and the wiring harness.|
|10-14-2012 02:15 PM|
UPDATE !!!!! The starter relay showed 3 terminals that were discolored-probably hot.
Replaced with new one from parts store..........Still have the same problem.
Thanks to all who have responded. I really appreciate it. I guess next is to pull the starter. I AM Not looking forward to that!
|10-08-2012 06:05 PM|
|BC_ZX3||Wires can become more flexible, electrical connections that are "border line" expand when subjected to heat, intermittent connections result. Cools down, things contract, back in business... temporarily.|
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|