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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-10-2012 09:27 AM
Originally Posted by whynotthinkwhynot View Post
I think he was referring to the timing belt inspection cover, which is at the top, beside the valve cover. It covers the cam sprockets.

Have you had any luck diagnosing the issue?
Yup! It was a bad coil pack. I checked the spark at the coil pack, and #1 had no spark. I replaced the pack, and it now runs like silk.
Thanks for all the help. Thats what makes this such a great forum.

10-10-2012 05:05 AM
whynotthinkwhynot I think he was referring to the timing belt inspection cover, which is at the top, beside the valve cover. It covers the cam sprockets.

Have you had any luck diagnosing the issue?
10-09-2012 06:06 PM
rangerbay To pull the timing cover off, it appears you have to support the engine and remove the motor mount.
Are you saying I need to replace the gasket?
10-09-2012 11:17 AM
disciplerocks Why did you pull the valve cover off? The timing cover would have revealed the belt and there is no gasket to replace.
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10-08-2012 04:44 PM
rangerbay I want to thank all of ya'll for the input and help. It was the coil pack. I pulled plug wires off the pack, and all had spark but #1. I replaced the coil pack and Voila! a great running motor. Now to have the timing belt replaced just in case it wants to crap out on me.

Do I need to replace the valve cover gasket since I removed the cover to check the t belt?
10-08-2012 03:31 AM
amc49 Nope. Sulfur smell means cat is WORKING, dead ones don't smell. The smell comes from unburned mix in motor hitting the cat, you can melt it doing that.
10-07-2012 11:39 PM
Fattie sulpher smell makes me think of the cat. pull that bitch off and pound it out.
10-07-2012 10:04 PM
whynotthinkwhynot I'd inspect the coil. It wouldn't be the first time that I've heard of a bad coil that ran ok at low rpm, but crapped out at high rpm. Do a secondary resistance check on cyl 1 and I bet you find high resistance or open circuit.

To properly inspect a timing belt you have to make sure you look at all the belt. This is done by marking the belt you can see with a permanent marker, and then bumping the engine until you can't find part of the belt that you haven't checked. Remove the coil plug-in to make sure it won't start, and key off, floor + hold the accelerator so it won't spray fuel when you bump it with the starter. Also, look at the wear on the teeth of the belt. On the back side of the belt you're looking for missing rubber or cloth showing through.
10-07-2012 09:24 PM
sleepyboy What about the plug wire, do you still have your old one to try? If that doesn't work then rent a compression tester and test your compression.

Oh and the lines on the back of the cam can still line up if it was the crank pulley side that jumped. Did you put the motor at TDC and check if they were both in line?
10-07-2012 05:11 PM
rangerbay NO warranty? Damn. Update: I pulled the valve cover off and what little of the belt I could see looked fine, and seemed to have good tension. The grooves in the othr side of the cams for that bar to hold them both lined up with each other.However, I pulled the plug on 4, and motor dropped rpm. also with 3 and 2. Number 1, ( closest to belt) not so good. No change in idle. Pulled brand new plug, inserted good old plug from #4, and still no change. Cylinder seems dead. Could I have dropped a valve?
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