|03-21-2013 08:57 PM|
|finalfantasy||I didn't get bolts with the new pump, reused the old ones but the "pan" head seemed to cock slightly when torqued down...|
|03-21-2013 09:37 AM|
|03-21-2013 09:36 AM|
Due to seeing this thread im now a member here, what a bloody help this was! Had to do it twice though, firstly i saw a leak and managed to somehow make it worse!
So we took the pump out by dropping the engine and replaced it with the rubber and some sealant which we thought would work, put it all back together, filled the car with coolant first (big mistake) which leaked all over the driveway.
So we went and bought a new pump and fit it again but i managed to turn the pump around and wiggle it out of the engine bay and managed to get the new pump back up the same way! So the second repair went much easier and faster than the first which was awesome!
The leak was coming from the bearing that the pulley attaches too, what an absolute bloody joke the thing is though the receipts that i had with the car said it had its pump changed as part of its MOT back in january which was a shambles as it wasnt new AT ALL!
I managed to get a new pump for the car for less than £20 and the receipt showed the pump at £35 second hand? Weird although i dont care as its now done and complete!
But yeah thanks again, much appreciated!
|03-18-2013 12:25 AM|
|finalfantasy||can anyone mention of cleaning the housing surface where gasket meets? Should the gasket be lubricated with coolant at all?|
|10-09-2012 12:48 PM|
|Phacade||Good to know, thanks!!|
|10-08-2012 09:14 PM|
Unfortunately, I can't. The trash came today.
However, mine was very yellowed - the way old plastic looks when it sits out in the sun too long - and the cracks were hairline fractures that I mistook as scratches. Closer inspection though revealed that they were indeed cracks and went all the way through the plastic on the underside of the tank. It didn't leak with fluid just sitting in it, but under pressure, it was squirting out and spraying on the belt - which in turn flung it all over the engine compartment.
So, I'm not 100% certain that my water pump needed replacing, but I'm glad I've got it done regardless.
|10-08-2012 12:41 PM|
|Phacade||Can you post up a picture of what your overflow tank looked like? I'm wondering if I have some leaks as well. I'd hate to replace my water pump only to find out I have a leaky overflow tank.|
|10-05-2012 11:25 PM|
The photos here were invaluable, thank you! However, as everyone seems like they've had different experiences, I did as well. Deciding to do everything to avoid fiddling with the motor mount, I dropped the A/C compressor AND removed the compressor mounting plate. Once I did that, this job just got a whole lot simpler.
Getting the old pump out and the new pump in took a little patience but I noticed with the new one, while looking at the pump in sorta an isometric view, no two sides of the pump (bolt-hole to bolt-hole on 4 sides) was the same. So, it's kinda like a Rubik's Cube... I successfully turned the pump until the right "edge" allowed me to insert the pump (pulley-side first as noted above), rotate it 180 degrees and viola... I was in business.
I also ended up having to go buy a new overflow tank as mine was developing cracks and was probably leaking under pressure. Those little suckers are expensive! ~$78 from the dealer - the only place in town that had one in stock. (Didn't want to wait to order one.)
Thanks again to everyone who's contributed to this thread.
Smack-dab in the middle of doing this and following this guide. Got the pump loose and can see how many a butt-kicking of the factory engineer is necessary. Just needed another 1/4" clearance?!
Will be loosening the A/C compressor tomorrow as I think I can get it out without dropping the motor. But, I have a capable floor jack just in case. Will report back when complete.
|09-26-2012 10:50 AM|
This was very helpful and informative. Did this job last night. Take out and removing the pump was a breeze, lowered the engine just enough to get it out...no knucklbusting here!!!
|02-11-2012 09:47 PM|
I just had the water pump go on my 2003 ZTS, and not wanting to blow $400-500 on a shop doing it, I did what any self-respecting fellow would do: googled it, and found this thread. Fantastic resource.
Took me and my dad almost 3 hrs this afternoon. Did not remove the motor mount (well, it never came off the car, it was loosened), nor the AC pump. Extracting the pump was exactly as described (the manufacturing engineer who said that was enough clearance between the motor and frame needs a kick in the junk.. just sayin'), but reinstallation was considerably harder. We wound up using a prybar between the (stuck to the motor) motor mount and the fender to wiggle the engine around a little. Seems the replacement pump was *slightly* larger than the OEM (maybe 1/16th of an inch) and it took an act of Congress to get it back in the cavity.
Another thread had a diagram of the serpentine belt (thank god!) but it took my dad (a retired automotive engineer and guy who's been working on cars for 60 years) and me (former helicopter mechanic and tech guy) about 20 minutes of head scratching and google-ing (mostly headscratching) to figure out the belt tensioner. My dad was looking for the 1/2" square drive hole for the long breaker bar. I wound up getting up under the car and looking at the tensioner for a minute before I realized how it worked. The 12 or 14mm open end on the pulley bolt was the trick, but only after I stuck another wrench on the end of that for some leverage. My tensioner was was stiff. When the belt goes eventually, its only going to take me 15 minutes to slap a new one on. Sweeet....
Thanks so much for the photos and clear description. This thread was instrumental in helping me save a couple hundred dollars that I didn't have to start with.
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