|01-22-2015 05:24 PM|
|histo12||I got a problem like yours...code 1235. got this code for almost two months now.It starts fine 80 % of the time even in very cold weather in the north east... 10 deg. I hear some noise like yours tick tick....like its coming from the ignition switch.... when it becomes louder and increasing in frequency that's the time when it starts stall but it never dies. like yours sometimes there's no DING sound when you open the door even if the key is on ignition(my key is permanently in the ignition because it is hard turn the key to start not until you tap the with screwdriver). It is also in this condition when it fails to start ... no light on the dashboard also... again like yours...planning to change the relay which could be the cause of the clicking too but not sure..Were you able to resolve your problem?Planning to change the ignition switch but it could be expensive ... with all he chips in the key tobe program by the dealer ONLY???. I DON'T know if ordinary garage can reprogram it .I' [planning to have a dealer check it and it may turn up very expensive just to have it check. I don't know if I have a choice.... NEED ADVICE|
|07-31-2013 09:31 AM|
Need help weird p1235 code and more
Almost three years ago I bought an 03 focus hatchback 2.3. Two months in my air bag light started flashing, did that for a few days, then i started hearing a quick like tick tickticktick sound left side dashboard. when this would happen my head lights would flicker with the tick, radio crackle and turn sound off, sometimes around second gear there would be a drop in power, and finally throw an engine code-p1235. Fuel pump control mod. Had it replaced. Fixed the issues for about about a month, keeps coming back. From where I bought the car I had a three year warranty, I had, new battery, two fuel pump control mods, new battery cables, new car ground, new fuse panel, tested the fuel pump, sent to ford for two weeks to be worked on by 20 year ford guy, was fine for about 6 months and now my warranty is gone. Started to days ago, again. Their are all the previous things going on,but now there is a tick that happens every so many seconds in my dash, even with the key just turned forward. Couple of times, I've went to start my car and nothing, no dash lights, no open door ding nothing. Please help
|02-17-2013 06:49 PM|
My Fuel Issue
My first issue was the usual one-engine loosing power, shaking, flat spot when accelerating. I replaced the fuel filter, fuel delivery module (FDM) and PVC valve. This didn't fix the problem.
I parked the car and let it sit for several months, and now the engine starts, but immediately dies. The fuel pump primes when the key is turned on, but it's like it quits running when the key is in the "run" position.
I don't know if it is the fuel pump driver, it's circuit, the PCM or what
I charged the battery, and now the car stays running, but of course, it still runs like it did before. The "check engine" light is on, so I'll just hook up a scan tool and read the codes. I know it needs O2 sensors already.
|02-17-2013 04:52 AM|
|amc49||Just for the record, a cleaned original fuel pump (one with the early issues) can go much longer than the 40,000 miles mentioned higher up. I'm at 100K (total of 180K) on one of mine now, still original pump. Thinking a lot of the trouble was early ethanol fuel which was not filtered as well as now. Once issues started showing up the fuel had to be made cleaner or lawsuit city on the fuelmakers' heads. The cleaned pump now going longer than the original new part........|
|02-16-2013 01:32 PM|
|a_2000_se||^^^ I've got one that I'd send you but it would cost more to ship it than a salvage yard charges. ~$5 usually.|
|02-16-2013 03:16 AM|
So, what happened with Nick Stone's Focus? He said he was gonna say what the problem turned out to be once he got it resolved, but I don't see it even though it's been quite some time ago.
I'm having a similar issue myself with my Focus, although with mine, I think it really IS the driver module.
|10-05-2012 06:58 AM|
|sleepyboy||I had to replace mine before. Though this was after dropping a SVT pump in. Ran good, went and filled the tank and then it crapped out and of course the tank was full of fuel too. I nursed it back home, drained the tank. Not sure if the SVT pump burned up the FPDM or the other way around? In the end I ended up replacing the whole pump assembly to the newer style and replaced the FPDM.|
|10-05-2012 06:45 AM|
Nice hole cutting job there.
I have seen one FPCM go out in 7 years according to a FF. This was discovered after replacing the fuel pump and the vehicle still had the symptoms of a bad fuel pump. It is definitely rare. I also remember reading an article about FPCM that were not grounded. I don't remember what situation that caused, but it was repaired by connecting the factory ground to the L-bracket you described.
|10-05-2012 02:11 AM|
If you don't we're going to start there.
So lets try and get this no fuel pump priming thing fixed first.
The priming is controlled by the "Power Hold Relay". It's located in the underhood fuse box. When you turn the key to 'Run' power comes from the ignition switch to the PHR, from there it goes to the Fuel Pump Relay, on to the pump:
So we've got 2 relays to check (we know the fuses are good, don't know if power is actually there, but lets assume it is).
The relays are a bear to remove. Every time I try the plastic cover pulls off first.
If the cover pulls off the PHR, push the silver part with your finger (battery connected). You should hear the fuel pump prime. If it does that relay is good, as is the fuel pump relay. And if all that dies happen, it's not a fuel issue.
But lets just hope none of that happens and this is an easier fix.
No fuel pump prime, disconnect the battery and remove the relay. If you look at the part # on it you'll see there are a couple in the box with that same # on them, they are interchangable (still doesn't make them any more fun to remove). Swap a good one in and see what happens.
Hopefully the car runs again. Then it's simply a matter of replacing a relay.
Actually lets backtrack 1 step first. The grounds.
There are 2 to check.
The first is for the PHR. It's the Black/Orange wire on the negative battery terminal. But if this guy is bad you'll notice other things not working. All this stuff:
If any of that is working, the ground is good.
So on to the next, the ground for the FPDM (the real FPDM). It's a solid black wire coming from the module and grounds under the rear seat, flip it up and pull the carpet on the passenger side back. You'll see this box (left of the fuel pump):
The ground is the one on the L bracket. Remove it, clean it with some emery cloth and put it back, just to make sure, you're there so why not.
Turn the key and see what happens.
If nothing them move on to the above relays.
These 2 are what I'm thinking are the issue. There is one more thing that could be the issue with fuel pump power though, the actual ignition switch.
|10-04-2012 10:57 PM|
Good luck on fixing your issues. Ive got a doozey going on right now myself. If any one can help walk you thru it, Iminhell can. He's very knowleable and always seems willing to give a hand.
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