|02-26-2014 09:36 AM|
Here is a photo of the one I took off my car. I replaced it when I replaced the alternator. I soldered the new one on and covered the splices with heat shrink tubing. Re-wrap the harness with electrical tape.
I purchased a new pigtail from here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5716pt/overview/
|02-26-2014 07:28 AM|
|bcLVSn95||Can anyone repost or fix the pics in this post?|
|03-08-2013 11:53 PM|
im having these same issues, except the battery light. i installed a high output 200amp alternator and my rockford t1000 loses power. then my lights flicker off and on, so i unhooked the amp and drove around, i noticed when i slowed down and just pressed the gas slightly the dash would click and the lights would flash off and on. ive tried everything to fix this, i cant find any issues.and this is a brand new motorcraft high out put 200 amp. its like the computer is resetting everytime the i rev the engine
|03-08-2013 07:26 AM|
|FortWayneFocus||Borg Warner makes the pigtail too, part number PT5751, you can get them at OReilly and Advance, if you don't want to spend the $40+ the dealer now wants for it.|
|10-10-2012 08:56 AM|
|09-26-2012 11:59 AM|
Okay, since there seems to be no additional info from anyone on my previous question, let me ask this:
What is the significance of cutting behind the "fusible link"?
In the first post of this How-To thread, this statement is made:
|09-25-2012 10:25 AM|
I replaced the alternator clip this past weekend. Everything seemed to be good for the 1/2 hr test I took the car on, but the next day things started to go downhill again. Now we're experiencing the same battery indicator/stalling/lights/radio problems we had before. (The under-dash clicking hasn't returned yet, but I expect it to.)
Some folks have suggested replacing the (three?) main power cables in the engine, but are those cables a source of the same symptoms of electrical problems that this clip is? And if so, why would they not show up until after replacing the alternator? (I guess I understand the clip failing due to R&R after alternator replacement, but not the main cables!)
I'd rather not just start replacing electrical components in the hope that I hit the right mysterious combination. Is there something else I should be considering?
|09-21-2012 10:00 AM|
|02-27-2012 10:54 AM|
Just did this fix cause my lights were dimming at random, the gauges were dimming and the radio screen was fluttering on the SVT, welll Im not have as many problems that red wire was definitely loose but I puled that wiring harness 13 inches back and found NO fuseable LINK so I just followed the directions that came with the kit I cut it back 4 inches and soldered in the new harness.
still have a fluttering radio sometimes not as often, I checked all the grounds and they seem good... any other thoughts ill test the alternator and get back
|09-20-2010 10:37 AM|
Update for part numbers and pics.
(I have the unfortunate task of doing this once the connector comes in on Wednesday)
I will take some pics, and update the first post since there's nothing up there anymore.
At any rate:
Ford Part: 1U2Z-14S411-TA
Motorcraft Part: WPT-118
^^^That (MC number) is most likely what the Ford Dealer will find the part number listed as now in the computer.
And yes...I put in a new alternator, and it was in fact that little 3 wire connector.
Visually it looks perfect, but if I pull it out about 1/2 way and wiggle it around just right, I can finally see 14.5 volts versus 12.8 on the volt meter.
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