|12-31-2012 06:57 AM|
|Sapperstang||So far it is fine.|
|12-26-2012 08:26 PM|
|amc49||I've never memorized which one but one post is always smaller by design, dunno why they do that..........|
|12-26-2012 11:52 AM|
Replacement batteries seem to have smaller diameter posts on them than the OEM battery - at least SEARS batteries do. This makes the battery terminal clamps a potential 'lose' fit.
The battery terminal bolt can be fully cranked down and you may still have a loose fit - especially if the terminal/post has been cleaned many times or excessively.
They make a battery post product that fits over the post to enlarge it for a better fit to the OEM terminal clamp. I don't know how well they work/fit but it might be easier than replacing the terminal clamps. It also may just be another point for corrosion to enter a connection - unseen.
Dielectric grease is always good for a battery connection to keep corrosion to a minimum.
|12-24-2012 05:26 PM|
|Sapperstang||Will do. I noticed awhile back while doing the oil or timing belt that nearly all of the wire coverings underhood are either cracked or gone completely.|
|12-23-2012 05:22 PM|
The external of it does bit matter, you need to pull back the boot and actually look at the wires. Good chance that they are broken in areas. Even with it fixed you should try to pull the boot off and take a look. Good luck.
|12-23-2012 04:22 PM|
|12-23-2012 02:03 PM|
@ 160K on a stock alternator, just consider it preventative maintenance. It'd of gone out soon anyways.
Do check the "Hatch Wiring" though. It was my initial thought of why your problems started and I didn't see anyone mention it (odd).
|12-23-2012 01:15 PM|
Well I read a few threads here with somewhat similar issues and I went out to look at all of the applicable electrical connections. The positive battery cable was loose. Not very loose, but it was and had some corrosion. I cleaned the cable and the terminal and tightened them up good. Checked all of the other cables and wiring and nothing seemed to be loose. I could swear I had checked all this stuff last time I had this issue.
Hit the key and it started right up. No clicks or anything. Earlier when it died it had no power at all. Could that slightly loose cable have been the culprit all along and cause symptoms months apart? Doesn't seem likely but the car seems fine now. I'd hate to think I replaced the alt and went through the hassle of wrestling the old one out and the new one in for nothing. Either way I guess I will wait and see. The radio is dead though for some reason. It had been acting up anyways so good time to replace it.
|12-23-2012 12:41 PM|
|oshoguno||Sorry to hear that you are still having problems. If it is not the alternator, pigtail or battery you might have a bad connection somewhere else, like the BCM. If you don't have the electrical chops to go further with this then it is time to get a shop involved. Try searching for a shop that specializes in electrical repairs (depending on where you are located). Dealerships are too expensive and small shops might not have the training and experience. I wish you luck.|
|12-23-2012 11:54 AM|
|Sapperstang||I ended up replacing the alternator (major pain in the ass). Today wife went out and the car was dead. I jumped it from my truck and it started right up. However, that ticking in the dash is back and the door ajar and seatbelt warning lights flashed with the clicking. Any major electrical draw immediately kills the engine and there is no power to start the car again. So I guess replacing the alternator did nothing. Not sure what else to do. Electrical issues just are not my expertise.|
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