|11-12-2012 10:17 PM|
|Incognito27||Thanks Tonne , will let you guys know how it turns out|
|11-12-2012 10:14 PM|
|11-12-2012 08:27 PM|
|Incognito27||Not to side track this thread ,but i am also having a issues , i have CEL for P0401 - EGR Flow Insufficient . However i have changed my DPFE sensor and still no change. Is there a way to test the DPFE to see whether it is in fact the cause or do i need to look elsewhere in the EGR system for a fault.|
|11-12-2012 03:29 PM|
|micsachek||ok i found out the my intake manifold had a vacuum leak and that was the reason for all my problems. also i found a wire that was melted and shorting out which was why my car was stalling. i now have no check engine light on so just want to say thank you to all of you who helped me with advice!|
|10-02-2012 08:57 PM|
fairly self explanatory, the heated O2 sensor has a resistance heating element in it. It makes it so it reads more accurately faster where the non heated ones require a long warm up so it runs on the predefined fuel tables longer.
Heated should yield you better emissions and MPG sooner....
|10-02-2012 05:40 PM|
|micsachek||is there a difference between a heated oxygen sensor and a regular oxygen sensor? i fixed most of these problems im having but its still idling bad. only code i got reading is p0136 so i hope if i can fix this i will be in the clear! wish me luck and any advice is helpful|
|09-29-2012 05:50 AM|
|micsachek||ok well so far i changed my dpfe sensor as you told me then found a collapsed vaccum hose. i changed that out and the code for the dpfe sensor is gone. i recently changed my down stream 02 sensor but since the check engine light was still on i took it and now it has 2 codes showing. p1131 which is my upstream 02 sensor. i bought and changed that out now the other code came up on autozones reader but not o'rielly's reader and that code is b1676 i believe. something to do with high voltage. my light is still on and im going tomarrow to see why. i cant win at this moment :(|
|09-23-2012 11:22 AM|
You started this thread by saying you wanted directions on how to replace the EGR valve and you've added other symptoms as you've posted and it's gotten worse- multifunction light on, PATS light comes on intermittently, minor oil leak, car stutters - do we have all the symptoms now?
Did you do any preliminary EGR valve testing? Take Mile30's advice; that fitting is a PITA, I personally think your EGR DTC code is a big red herring.
|09-23-2012 10:42 AM|
I needed to use a torch to remove that rusty nut from the fittings when I swapped header-for-stock a few weeks ago. 'Statie' gave me an inspection ticket and I had to change to stock and back... that fitting on the header I had to cut off, put the header in a vise and heat the thing until it was cherry red... then used a 1 1/16" wrench to get the old one off.
It's not fun, go with the cheaper ideas first; that fitting is a bear!
|09-23-2012 02:02 AM|
|micsachek||yes i am sure its oil, my trans fluid hasnt dropped at all, i have been checking that frequently.|
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|