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Thread: How to: Clean a Zetec IAC Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-26-2015 04:29 PM
amc49 Read higher up what I said about the possible rubber diaphragm in one, if so you just ruined it.

And why would somebody link to a page with most of the information gone, as in pics?

11-26-2015 09:18 AM
Originally Posted by xecutionr View Post
This thread is to help everyone with that nasty idle problem with higher mileage Zetecs.

Tools needed:
2 Jack stands
1 Jack]
flat head screw driver
8mm socket with ratchet
(1/4 inch is recommended, 1/2 inch is hard to use in tight spaces)
Carb/Choke Cleaner (semi large can depends on how much buildup there is)

Step 1: raise and support focus with jack stands

Step 2: get your flat head screw driver and take off the intake tube on the throttle body so you can gain access to the IAC when you take it off from underneath

Step 3: get under the car with your 8mm socket ratchet and start feeling up in behind the starter on the intake manifold there should be two bolts loosen them up and then take them out with your hand, they are easy to take out. The IAC Looks like this on the intake manifold, the silver cylinder looking thing.

here is a pic of the IAC location from under the car you can tell its really hidden away

Step 4: once the IAC bolts are out it should be sitting in there because of the tight space, it wont fall out because there is a wire connected to it. get back on topside of the car and grab this wire that my index finger is pointing/laying on and that is the wire you can use to pull the IAC out..

dont jerk manuver the IAC around from atop so that it can easily be pulled out.

Step 5: grab your carb cleaner and go to town on inside of the IAC valve



Step 6: let the IAC valve dry in the sun or just air dry until no cleaner comes out of it. then reinstall!

Hope this helps everyone that has this problem!

This is the best way to do the IAC. But use liberal amounts of patience. Lots of patience. Thank you xecutionr.
11-26-2015 09:13 AM
stratsurvivor IAC remove, clean and replace. Best description. Best way. But PATIENCE also required. Lots of patience...and Small hands or may have to pull intake mani...
07-14-2015 06:35 PM
tdevel1961 Ligardner I replaced my motor and am experiencing the same problem maybe my hands are just too big but I can't get to the bolts from the top I figure it would be easiest to pull the intake manifold.
01-01-2015 09:26 PM
diyengineer Found no gasket as you described. Installed new gasket and worked like a champ after resetting pcm.
12-28-2014 10:03 PM
amc49 You risk a serious leak by not using a gasket, the old rubber seal often is hard and having been flattened and then cooked into that shape it will NOT properly rebound to seal again. Or, asking for trouble there. Why the paper gasket is supplied, cheaper and if you leave the rubber double o-ring seal in place the paper easily seals that. Silicone by itself could too if put on competently but you see the problem there.......... You can make one up for like 50 cents from gasket material, I make all mine. Make the holes intentionally a little small to where the bolts have to screw in and you even have bolt holders to hold bolts in place while you reinstall part. I always install with top bolt missing and bottom in place, get threads well started and then part held well enough the top bolt goes in easy. Five minute max job there. On and off in ten.

If you get solvent/carb cleaner in the vacuum diaphragm that is in some of these you can kiss part goodbye. Diaphragm is located at the rolled press seam, why part has to have a vent breather on it if it has one. Depending on where the idle air is available, the IAC may not move at all at idle and could be fine. It is when the unknowing move things like throttle plate stop and other things to make the idle air different when IAC is older and carboned up shaft that the problems begin. The valve cannot move easily against shaft deposits when they are heavy and any change you make requiring a big change in distance then screws you. Why you never mess with butterfly setting even though one is there.
12-28-2014 03:47 PM
diyengineer Sounds like my problem.
11-23-2014 12:15 AM
Originally Posted by diyengineer View Post
Sounds like that is what my problem is, doesnt idle worth crap, turn AC on car dies.
When mine took a shit it just refused to idle at all, it would start, and immediately stall. To limp it home I had to keep my foot on the pedal to keep the engine at idle speeds when sitting. I cleaned mine meticulously, and it worked for a while, but it came back. Replaced it with a new one, never had a problem. On the gasket note, mine never had a fiber gasket, it used two o rings to seal. The new valve came with a fiber gasket, which I did not install, sealed just fine on the o rings.
11-22-2014 01:27 PM
diyengineer Sounds like that is what my problem is, doesnt idle worth crap, turn AC on car dies.
05-29-2014 10:33 PM
Yes....there is: Quick, Easy IAC Fix

Originally Posted by Daddy MO View Post
Also is there a way to test to make sure the IAC is even good before I put it back in since its a pain to get out. When I plug it in and turn the car on I dont see the plunger inside do anything but stay open about 1/16".

Getting it out was easy using a ratcheting closed 8mm wrench and a mirror to help with the top bolt. Getting it back on I know will be a PIA!!!!
There is a quick easy way to test the IAC on the car and perform an easy temporary, short term fix:

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