|05-25-2016 05:13 PM|
|amc49||I feel your pain. Just hoping my joints don't deform all out of shape like my Mother's due to the severe arthritis she and I both have. She, Lord love her, looks like she has the feet of a monster. Hands the same way. Has severe osteo too due to 6 children but no bones broken yet. Scared if she fell it would be like broken glass.|
|05-25-2016 04:40 AM|
I know working under a lift isn't a walk in the park either, but lying flat on my back isn't a nice relaxing position for me. It's painful, and getting down on the ground and back up again is very difficult, as well. I felt bruised all over my back for about a week after, and had cramps over my ribs for a couple of days. My knees are just getting over it now, weeks later. With a lift, I know I'd have a stiff neck and sore shoulders, but at least I wouldn't tear up my knees, and I wouldn't have the bruised back. This was with a nice thick cushion under me. Plus there's the trying to scoot around to get a better angle at something. With a lift, you just take a step or turn around, instead of sliding your whole horizontal body around different ways.
It's a moot point anyway, I don't have access to a lift. Just sayin' I wish I did.
I've had a lot of fractures, (nobody's beating me, I have severe osteoporosis) and I still feel most of them, at least part of the time, like when I'm under a car, or the weather changes.
I'm just glad most of what I need to do to this car will not require me to get under it, or, if it does, it'll only be for a short time, not most of the day.
|05-20-2016 02:21 PM|
Working from underneath is often a can't win situation.
Craning your neck and reaching overhead can often be more difficult than laying on floor/creeper and reaching up - at least you can relax and lie flat for a rest in between attempts when it's lower.
Walking underneath is much easier to get to things repeatedly, but not great while working on them.
It's the getting up & down to crawl underneath that's the hard part of not having it lifted.
|05-20-2016 01:27 PM|
|amc49||Actually, with a lift then your neck hurts like hell from looking straight up.|
|05-20-2016 12:09 AM|
Part of my problem is that it's hard for me to lie flat on my back under the car, I get cramps in my back and over my ribs. Other issues I mentioned earlier in the thread. Wish I had access to a lift, that would make jobs like this much easier. It is a very simple repair, but getting at the part to get it off, was not easy for me.
|05-15-2016 09:18 PM|
If you're like me you train yourself to yank that cable, get out of the habit and somewhere you WILL get bit.
Taping wrench works fine but if IAC was sticking before, you need to relearn to let PCM locate the stem properly and common for me to change the TB butterfly setting so need it anyway. Any time the butterfly position is touched the IAC resettles in a different spot and range.
|05-15-2016 09:12 PM|
All I can add is that the reset is often desired, to quicken relearn now that it's working differently.
Not necessary, but another good excuse to do it the safer way with the battery disconnected.
|05-15-2016 08:53 AM|
I cleaned mine yesterday.
Took a while as expected from reading this thread but surprisingly there was no cussing involved!
Here's what I can add about it:
I used a ratcheting box wrench instead of a socket/ratchet which made it easier to control. I don't have metric ones but luckily 8mm is the same as 5/16 SAE.
Instead of dealing with the reset that occurs from disconnecting the battery I wrapped my wrench in black electrical tape so I did not have to worry about the starter.
After unbolting it I Remove the air tube from the Air Filter to the intake, pulled it out the top then disconnected the plug.
As AMC49 suggested I cut the gasket bolt holes smaller than the bolts so that they would stay in place as I fished it back down to reinstall.
I threaded the bottom bolt all the way through the gasket and the top bolt 1/2 way through the gasket so that when I set it in place I could start the bottom bolt and run it in part way before starting the top one.
All in all it was a pretty simple repair and the car runs great now.
Thanks for all the inputs everyone and the Great pic's from my_beautious_zx3 and Oblivion.
|05-04-2016 01:33 AM|
To the best of my knowledge, the only way to clean the IAC valve is to take it off and clean it. Throttle body should also be cleaned. I ran out of time before I could do that part, couldn't reach to clean it. I was out of daylight, needed to get the IAC V. back on because I needed to go places the next day, no way I'd have been in any condition to get under there again the very next day and try again.
But soon I'll have to to, and I've figured out I'll need some flexible tubing to spray through to get at the TB. Can't do it with the little red tube that comes with the can, it won't stay on being twisted around to try to get the cleaner into the TB. I hope that will be enough.
The car doesn't surge and drop now, and doesn't die at idle, but it does want to die on start-up when it's warmed up to operating temp. I'm pretty sure it's because the flaps in the TB are sticking from all the carbon.
|05-03-2016 07:59 PM|
You posted in a thread on cleaning the IAC, seafoam in the fuel will have exactly ZERO effect on the IAC as that goes through the fuel injectors just before the intake valves (way downstream of where the IAC is located in the intake).
RPM can be seen exactly when using the test mode of the odometer. Hold the reset button in while starting, after start you can release it then press repeatedly to page through functions.
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