|11-04-2012 03:04 PM|
|gary the wolf||check flex-pipe,,,,|
|11-04-2012 12:13 AM|
The ceramic is for the brakes... so the label says....
:-) thanks for the heads up. every one needs a remainder every so often.
|11-03-2012 11:40 PM|
I pretty much never actually torque exhausts anyway, no need. Never had a problem.
Not correcting you, just trying to help........................
Ceramic? That's a new one on me. I've got copper, aluminum, and nickel for high heat.
I like studs in aluminum, repeated pulling of steel bolts has a tendency to wallow out the aluminum.
|11-03-2012 01:15 PM|
|Magus2727||^^ thanks. Dont think i ever said at any time not to use anti-size on the ARP bolts. I have every type of anti-seize (normal. with copper, with ceramic, etc) so I have the right compound for the right job. You do have to realize though that when using anti-size it becomes a lubricated bolt so you need to adjust your torque when fastening.|
|11-03-2012 04:41 AM|
|amc49||Magus, you should use some antiseize on those bolts. Even ARP will lose some hardness when cooked repeatedly. In my experience steel bolts just have a tendency to seize up with long term use in aluminum heads at exhaust locations. Antiseize works well there, what it was truly made for. I use it at all exhaust places like converter flanges, I've never broken a part it was used on.........|
|11-02-2012 02:31 PM|
Took it to very nice local shop, and despite having it for 3 days, and having to get the power steering and alternator bracket out of the way, were able to remove stuck stud, and put it all back together with new gaskets.
It is again, a measure quieter, but still has that old truck sound when I stomp on the gas. Leak from somewhere after the cat? or maybe the EGR itself? The tube to the manifold I know looked fine.
|09-10-2012 11:11 PM|
|oshoguno||A right angle drill is what is needed though. It could be borrowed or rented from a shop, a cheapo one bought for about $50 or you might know someone in the trades who can get their hands on one. It is at least worth looking into. An even better idea than my original one is to buy one or two reverse drill bits (the bit cuts when the drill is in reverse). If the bolt turned for you in the block then it isn't that tight and a reverse drill bit, when it cuts, can turn the whole bolt out for you.|
|09-10-2012 01:31 PM|
would there be any purpose in putting a thin film of the exhaust grade "patch" putty on both sides and then bolting up so you get more of a "squishy" gasket that might better seal between the manifold and the head?
This is one reason why I am going with ARP bolts, there appear to be quite a few of these threads over the last few months.
|09-10-2012 01:22 PM|
And the right angle drill is a bit of a specialty tool as well....
good luck - it won't be the first vehicle to run without one of the exhaust studs....
often seals well enough with the rest torqued down right....
|09-10-2012 01:01 PM|
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Unfortunately, none of them worked out for me. I can't get centered on the bolt to drill for the extractor, since the power steeering pump bracket is in the way. So I tried form an angle, anyway. I got the bolt (which broke well below the surface of the head) to move, maybe one turn, but then nothing.
Im not taking the head out, and im not taking the whole front of the engine off to get a square shot at the bolt.
I just put the new manifold on, minus that one bolt. Had no choice, really, wife needs the car to drive 60 miles to work.
I am due for a timing belt, and I may have a shop do that for me, I'll just have them look at that bolt too, maybe that have a magic tool for it, or can more easily try on of the suggestions above. I don't have the resources for some of those, like welding on a nut, or a gas torch, or whatever...
It sounds a little quieter, but I think most of that sounds is coming from that bolt that was already weakened.
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