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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-17-2013 11:05 AM
Originally Posted by QuickSiR View Post
Any updates on this swap? :)
You could pm him.
04-17-2013 08:06 AM
QuickSiR Any updates on this swap? :)
10-09-2012 08:00 PM
VillageT The upper engine mount for the 2.5 in the escape has a 3 bolt attachment at the cyl. head instead of the 2 bolt on the 2.0. It looks like part of the third bolt will have to be removed to provide belt clearance for the P/S. The bosses are on the 2.5D head to mount the 2.0 P/S pump. I have not been able to accurately measure the difference in the height of the engine mount pad that is part of the head casting. The distance from the mounting pad to the top of the head (valve cover parting surface) seems to be greater on the 2.5l by maybe .5". I need to get those dimensions to see if I need to fab new mounting brackets.
10-02-2012 08:30 PM
felixthecat I'd use a 23 escape manifold, a mild set of cams. A taller deck height, like you said means spacers, maybe you could use a 23 mount w/ shorter spacers. Figure out if a 23 escape pcm would work= The 23 escape is the only 23 w/o imrc, but uses the imtv, which would be great to use. Using a 20 manifold on 25 You might not have an issue w/ the grunt, but I'd remove the imrc= tumble flaps. The 20 has only length of runners, wheres the 23 uses two lengths of runners= imtv. A pcm swap you'd need. I'd add a 2.5'' flex back system for sure. Have you checked out a 25 Mazda 3?
09-21-2012 08:32 AM
VillageT He is where I am on the 2.5d Installation

What I expect from this engine swap is a nice drivable engine package with a substantial improvement in HP and torque. This is a daily driver with SVT suspension and 17” in wheels. Its fun to drive as is but a little more scoot would be very nice. It is also getting much harder to find a low mileage 2.3d so the price of 2.5 shouldn’t be much higher. Yes cost is a big issue on this update!

The issues with this installation appear to be as follows:
1) I plan using my existing MTX75 so the rear mounts should work as is. It may be worth while to put a lower poly mount in to help with engine roll but I will try the production mount first. The flywheel will be c/o 2.0l with an upgraded 2.3 clutch (I am pretty easy on clutches). The 2.5d front mount bracket is different but I should be able to use the 2.0d mount and a spacer to match the deck height change.
2) Some tape measurements of my wife’s 2.5d Escape intake manifold indicates that manifold should package in the Focus but the TB is a drive by wire. I would have to use a cable operated TB and this might require an adapter.
3) The cam position sensor (CMP) in the 2.5d will not work with my processor. Since the engine seems to run fine without it I could leave it disconnected but would not have a MIL function. Someone had responded in a separate post that the later D engine CMP sensor provided four signals per RPM while the 2005 only provided one. If there were 4 slots or bumps on the intake cam to provide a signal could 3 of those be removed or filled in?
4) The current plan is to let the computer continue to think it is a 2.0d and compensate for air fuel ratio with a tune. This means that I would have to use the 2.0d crank sensor, throttle position sensor, and MAF and EGOs. The VVT control will be deactivated and simply not connected. I have to find out what the default position for the cams is with the VVT off. I may look it some way to mechanically lock them in a best compromise position. Using the c/o MAF will certainly affect the HP and torque but low and mid throttle performance should be pretty good. A MAF upgrade would be first on the plate for upgrades and it would possible to install the complete 2.5d intake setup from the Escape by putting the battery in the back but the electronics implications could be very significant.
5) The exhaust manifold looks like it would package without a problem but the pipe diameter is larger and would require an all new exhaust system. One of the aftermarket Focus systems (2 in) should work fine.

I have been using the Escape as a reference simply because of convenience. I do need to spend some time with a Fusion to see if those parts will work better. The Fusion engine is listed with about 4 additional HP.

Any feedback or suggestions would be much appreciated.

Village T
09-10-2012 03:32 PM
1turbofocus On most it wouldnt matter , even with a new flashed ECU I feel the engine would start with no cam sensor hooked up

I would like to see some guys with 2008 to 2011 try this

09-10-2012 01:45 PM
VillageT Add 2005 2.0d 50 state to the list.

I disconnected the CMP sensor and drove it about 25 miles-ran just fine (MIL light came on of course). When I got back I disconnected the battery, emptied "keep alive" and restarted the engine with no problems. There was no perceptible change in driving characteristics.

Village T
09-08-2012 06:11 PM
VillageT I have been asking around on this one and Tom appears to be correct about disconnecting the cam sensor once the computer has "registered" the location at initial start. Timing is done through the crank sensor.

What is not known is the result if the computer looses this registry. This can happen if the battery is disconnected for an extended period of time. The computer will go through an initial start process that sets the timing, injector settings etc. These settings go into a "keep alive" memory that the computer holds after the engine is shut down for the next start.

Village T

I am going to be off work for a couple days and I plan to test what happens after the "keep alive" memory is dumped.
09-08-2012 11:04 AM
1turbofocus I will make a list here of the cams sensors that can be unplugged on the Duratec engine and update it as people post

Duratec 2.0 2006 ( Euro )
Duratec 2.0 2005

09-08-2012 11:03 AM
Originally Posted by euro-bred View Post
I have an 04 2.3. Where is this sensor? I can find out really quick if mine will start and run with it unplugged.
On the side of the head close to the end of the cams , very easy to get to

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