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Thread: Yanner's 2012 stereo install Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-03-2013 11:23 PM
Lite12 FWIW, I am running the stock 6spk HU, Alpine KTP-445U for the door power(all spk level, tapped in with Parrot harness), LC2i fed front spk level in from HU to rca out to sub, Alpine PLT-5 powered sub.
Just got the LC2i & sub installed today and haven't had time to do any tweaking but I have NO thump on turn on.
I have main power strait from the Batt to the sub in the hatch, LC2i is hot when key on from 15A fuse in rear panel, using GTO turn on to sub amp.
So far quite happy with the results, now just need time (and good weather) to install the door speakers and finish tweaking it.

I send out a big thanx to the many posts here that have helped me out on this project. I'll try to get a couple pics up once I get it all prettied up.
11-03-2013 10:35 PM
Lite12 One question, that 2" round "knob" on the pass side panel, what is it for? And how does it come off?
I have an Alpine PLT-5 sub installed, sitting along that side and am trying to figure out a good way to mount it without screwing it into the floor.
I want it to be semi easy to remove when space is needed, so may rig up a bracket that slides over that round thing, or remove it and bolt into the side.
09-07-2013 12:37 AM
mrpeaches
Quote:
Originally Posted by mister_eff View Post
Hi Yanner,

Another question from me. Were you able to eliminate the thump? What yellow/purple wire were you talking about?

Thanks
The way I got rid of turn-on thump was to buy a PAC TR-7, wire it to IGN switched power, program it for a 5 sec delay, and feed its trigger wire to the remote turn-on of my amp. The LCQ-1 turns itself on automatically upon sensing speaker level input, so now when the car starts up the power on sequence goes: Radio ---> LCQ-1 ---(5 sec delay)---> Amp. This eliminated turn on thump for me.
09-05-2013 07:18 PM
Yanner No, and I got ride of the car (suspension rattle/clunk). Sorry I can't help.
04-25-2013 09:34 PM
mister_eff
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yanner View Post
I wouldn't be using anything but CDs I am familiar with to play with audio settings. FM radio is limited in dynamic range and in my experience, many satellite radio stations (my experience is more with XM than Sirius) are very limited on bandwidth, with many stations sounding like 96kbps mp3s.

I got the remote for the lcq-1 instead of the amp figuring it would mesh better with the entire equalization rather than just turning the sub down.

Please let us know if you succeed in eliminating the turn on thump if you get to it before I do.
Hi Yanner,

Another question from me. Were you able to eliminate the thump? What yellow/purple wire were you talking about?

Thanks
03-17-2013 07:34 AM
majorChibi
Quote:
Originally Posted by mister_eff View Post
Hello Yanner,

What do your tweeters look like installed? Do they fit inside the stock tweeter housing?

I'm looking into upgrading my stereo (also 2012 SEL no-Sony) and I want to know how the tweeters would fit. It looks like you have the Polk db6501's which have 1"/25.4mm tweeters. Would slightly bigger tweeters fit? I'm looking at the Hertz 165 XL speakers which have 28mm tweeters.

Thanks, your thread has been super helpful for an uber-noob like me.
I have 28 mm tweeters from a massive audio ck6.
These were much thicker and wider than the stock tweeter housing. I had to break off one tab and "fabricate" little mounts to get it to stick to the stock panel temporarily. I put a thick 2-3" foam in the sail panel to provide support behind the tweeter. Its worked well so far (5-6 months). I just pulled my door off to readjust the xover and its held well.
03-16-2013 01:56 PM
mister_eff
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yanner View Post
The very first post says "I got the Polk tweeters to fit rather easily into the factory sail panels." So yes I got them to fit, so they look like stock when installed. I have a feeling slightly larger tweeters would fit but would perhaps require different or more modifications. I bent one tab back to make mine fit, so you might need to do more to make a bigger one fit.
Ahhh I missed that. Thanks for the reply.
03-16-2013 09:25 AM
Yanner
Quote:
Originally Posted by mister_eff View Post
Hello Yanner,

What do your tweeters look like installed? Do they fit inside the stock tweeter housing?

I'm looking into upgrading my stereo (also 2012 SEL no-Sony) and I want to know how the tweeters would fit. It looks like you have the Polk db6501's which have 1"/25.4mm tweeters. Would slightly bigger tweeters fit? I'm looking at the Hertz 165 XL speakers which have 28mm tweeters.

Thanks, your thread has been super helpful for an uber-noob like me.
The very first post says "I got the Polk tweeters to fit rather easily into the factory sail panels." So yes I got them to fit, so they look like stock when installed. I have a feeling slightly larger tweeters would fit but would perhaps require different or more modifications. I bent one tab back to make mine fit, so you might need to do more to make a bigger one fit.
03-15-2013 02:57 AM
mister_eff Hello Yanner,

What do your tweeters look like installed? Do they fit inside the stock tweeter housing?

I'm looking into upgrading my stereo (also 2012 SEL no-Sony) and I want to know how the tweeters would fit. It looks like you have the Polk db6501's which have 1"/25.4mm tweeters. Would slightly bigger tweeters fit? I'm looking at the Hertz 165 XL speakers which have 28mm tweeters.

Thanks, your thread has been super helpful for an uber-noob like me.
02-26-2013 12:32 AM
Yanner
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjbain View Post

I have another, more hypothetical question for ya, if you're willing: I'm assuming you used the two black wires as the source going into your crossover's 'inputs', and left the stock tweeter wiring alone. But unless the HU is powering BOTH the stock woofer and tweeter separately, shouldn't there be a source where the two sets of wiring merge into one set (that goes to the HU)? And wouldn't it be beneficial to tap that wiring to use as the crossover input? Or am I just over-thinking this??
Pretty sure you're over thinking it. The branch of wires connected to nowhere are practically as though they didn't exist as far as the rest of the stereo system is concerned.
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