|03-21-2013 11:30 AM|
|FoMoCus||Since the o.p. has done so much work already I may be beating a dead horse, but I have never really had luck cleaning an 02 sensor and I have actually made IAC valves worse by cleaning (yes even with the specified cleaners). My suggestion would be to replace the IAC and o2 sensors with new ones. At 170k miles, it wouldn't hurt. Even if it isn't the problem. They aren't that expensive and its a lot less troublesome than cleaning and doing all the other work you have gone through.|
|03-21-2013 11:13 AM|
lower motor mount
i saw on youtube how to replace it and it was the problem i was having not a rough idle lot of people confuse it with that but its more like engine shaking whole car change that lower motor mount and u will see a change.
|01-06-2013 11:38 PM|
I see lots of new post since I was here last, so...
Was in same boat. Did plugs, wires when got car. Helped, was needed anyway- was a factory orriginal 138,xxx when I got it. Then I replaced infamous PVC hose. Better, no stall out but still not perfect. Over thanksgiving, it got a timing belt and water pump- o-ring Leaking on pump. Still no change.
So, I had a good idle, good top end, but stutter and hessitation off line, random chug at most rmp, but it hated below 2,500 for the most part. Then right before x-mas, I lost #2. Ran great on way home from work, 2hrs later a 3cyl zetec. So, I tested plugs and wires with no change. Put in a new coil, and BAMB! All is ok. Idles at 600-750 like butter, snappy with ZERO hessitation or stutter. Who'd a thunk.
Anyway, not saying that is your problem, but really never thought about it. Still amazed it only dropped #2 and #3 still fired. Its like a new car, sort of. Still has list of issues, but now it runs like a gyro and not a top. LOL!
|01-06-2013 07:51 PM|
Until you have positively replaced the PCV line at rear of motor that goes directly to the intake do not post you have checked or replaced all the vacuum lines. Way too many do and have not a clue about that line which is generally what does this. In fact, nothing personal, but I have found that many if not most people simply do not have the ability to fully check all vacuum lines/leak points, but they sure say they do and by so doing box themselves into the impossible to solve scenario that has them replacing way too many parts for absolutely no reason at all. Even though it hurts to use it (me, anyway), your brain power is so much cheaper than unneeded parts that do nothing.
No need for smoke test, the EVAP system will post a CEL pretty quick if there is a leak, if no light then no leak. Of course it's your money..........I could easily simply block the entry to intake from EVAP, screw any lights set and simply see if the idle cures. How hard is that?
You can realtime measure the sensor one upstream O2 to see if it reads low/not switching at warm idle, that is the indicator of vacuum leak. Regardless of whether you are SURE you checked them all.
And yes, it is very curious how many think the engine is not running right when on these cars all that's wrong is bad mounts. Shows how hard it is for many to tell the difference in bad running and bad vibration, two different things. Or they buy the crap mounts and then since they changed them are again in that impossible to solve scenario previously mentioned.
|01-06-2013 07:44 PM|
|gary the wolf||replace the plug wires,,,l had to do that on my 2001 and 2003 focus,,,solved the prob.|
|01-06-2013 04:49 PM|
|11-07-2012 10:30 PM|
Going to schedule a smoke test asap to see if its a possible vacuum leak.
Will post results.
|11-07-2012 08:55 PM|
Did you ever figure out the problem?
|09-29-2012 06:08 PM|
|drlenger||I have had this same issue with my 2000 SE Zetec.....tried everything, replaced the motor mounts, fuel filter, pcv hose, fixed vacuum leaks, changed the pcv, changed the egr, changed the Idle Air Control Valve, cleaned the throttle body.......but finally found the problem...............the replacement motor mounts were from the local Orielly's Auto Parts and were made in China......went to our Ford Dealer, ordered the motor mount on the passenger side, transmission mount under the air box, and changed the anti roll mount underneath the steering rack......now you have to check and see if the motor is running.....it is like a different car, it used to shake so bad that the entire dash rattled, I actually wrapped the fuel pump with bubble wrap to keep it from beating against the body.|
|09-28-2012 04:55 PM|
|CannondaleZx3||I'm having this same issue with a 2001 zx3. Replaced PCV valve, dpfe sensor, cleaned IAC, fuel filter replaced, spark plugs, vehicle speed sensor(speedo dropout). All of this made it run better, but not well. Disconnecting the EGR system dramatically helps, but still get slightly shaky idle at around 700-800. Gonna try replacing the coil pack and wires. I would try disconnecting your EGR system and see if it helps your case(could help isolate?). Post your results if you find anything!|
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