|07-08-2014 03:19 AM|
Gotta figure the timing was off a little at least, if only from a floppy belt.
If NOTHING changed, it couldn't have solved the problem - it would just be coincidence that something else touched during the job was the real fix. (like a poor electrical connection)
|07-07-2014 09:19 PM|
I was standing there as it was changed. The original belt felt like leather, almost if you could imagine lasting 240k miles on the original OEM belt. At least the last timing belt job was done at the Ford dealership by the looks of it. Replaced the belt, and put the same spark plugs back in (they looked fine). Instantly fixed all of my idling issues, stalling, and low power. I was sucking up gas left and right trying to keep up with traffic, especially stop and go traffic where I couldn't really step on the gas. Locked the cams in place, belt went on, worked like magic. Originally, I know I needed to get the timing belt done, but it wasn't a right now kind of thing. I thought the idling and power issue was a separate thing, so when I asked my buddy about it, he said before we chase down power issues let's fix the timing belt. I must have been flying down the road after it was repaired -- I had to be heavy footed before fixing the belt, no real power until about 3400 RPM, I had to make it shift often to keep up, and you might as well tow it over a bridge because there was no power to be had. Engine did not jump timing.
|07-07-2014 06:14 PM|
|amc49||More like they fixed something for $5 and then tossed the timing belt job at you to get more money. Timing belts especially ones that have not jumped do not affect idle at all. Haven't seen that in a lifetime of messing with them. They can even jump and the idle be perfect, just down on major power seen that too. They are either jumped or not, if not they are not contributing to bad idle unless by some odd reason flopping dead loose. If car is running fine higher than idle then no way can it be the belt.|
|07-06-2014 02:35 PM|
|methamp||Had all these issues happen on my car. Turns out the timing belt looked fine at first glance, but really needed to be replaced. As soon as a new timing belt was on the car, it ran like a dream with no issues or roughness.|
|05-23-2014 10:06 PM|
If you can have the car checked with a code reader
I just replaced the timing belt on our 2001 Focus DOHC and the symptoms you describe sound similar.
I was able to drive it to Auto Zone and they found the following fault codes P0193 This is a fragile plastic that has 2 screws attaching it to the end of the fuel rail on the passenger side of the car. Pull a Part has them for next to nothing$ Parts stores want 70 to 170 $$$ for the same part. It is easy to break so be careful.
P0 443, EVAP System Canister Purge Valve
P0113 this is the Intake Air Temperature sensor and may have the Mass Air Sensor incorporated into it. FOR EACH ISSUE CHECK YOUR WIRING FIRST so you are not just swapping parts.
Best of luck
|02-18-2014 10:45 AM|
|djack2112||A intermittent coil firing problem is always a big pain. In the past it would always seem to rear its ugly head at the wrong time, in which, evades being detected. But that would have been the second place I would have probably looked, if the vacuum hose hadn't fixed it.|
|02-18-2014 10:42 AM|
Ah, I see,...well that is good to know that there are two of the possible culprits. Thanks for the post. I just love being able to make minor fixes on my automobile, especially since I am disabled, and on a fixed income. I grew up in a auto/drag-racing garage, so I've been exposed to all sorts of autos, it now comes down to whether or not I can do it with my physical limitations.
thx sailor, :)
|02-18-2014 08:51 AM|
Just recently fixed my problem.
Changed all 3 mounts back to Motorcraft (The autozone mounts were junk and the automatic didn't like the aftermarket dogbone) which made a huge difference.
But the real fix was.....the coil.
I wasn't getting a CEL but installing a new coil,car idles perfectly and made all the difference in the world.
|02-18-2014 01:47 AM|
|sailor||djack2112 - there are actually TWO ventilation hoses on the engine, one from the air intake to the cyl. head area that supplies air to the engine & one from the PCV valve to the intake manifold that recycles crankcase vapors to be burned. It's a flow through system to work more effectively.|
|02-18-2014 12:46 AM|
|djack2112||One other thing though, my hose that was the issue is solid and very hard plastic of some sort, with rubber ends on it, in which, one end turns and attaches to the area by the backside of the cylinder head, and the other slides over an outlet that protrudes from the bottom side of the intake. It also has some sort of heat resistance rubber sheathing around it too. It does have a part number on it as well.|
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