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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-05-2013 09:15 PM
Red Jay 918 am i the only one running ZXM1 springs on ZX3B dampers?
03-10-2013 12:48 AM
Originally Posted by yomanwill View Post
For me a good spring and damper set is more appropriate, overall I have been satisfied with the stock ride. After putting it on the lift I noticed that the suspension/brakes needs some TLC: Front sway bar bushings are clicking, front brakes are getting worn down, ride feels a little softer than "new" etc.

Also for the ~$1,000 I would spend I coil overs I can get this instead:

Ford Damper kit
P/N M-18000-ZX3B from
($159.50 + $25 shipping Tousley Ford)

H&R Sport Spring Set
P/N 51662
($206 +16.83 shipping Tire Rack)

Moog front sway bar links
P/N K80066
($17.97 x 2 = 35.94 + 11.75 shipping Rockauto)

Energy Suspension front poly bushings
P/N 9.5158G
($20.90 Amazon)

Energy Suspension rear sway bar grommets
P/N 9.8105G
($13.90 Amazon)

Alignment at local shop (~$75)

Total For suspension upgrade/fix:$564.82

Not related, just needs to be done:
AKEBONO Front Pads
P/N ACT1339
($53.79 + 11.75 shipping Rockauto)

P/N 12061093 (120.61093)
($51.79 x2 = 103.58 + 11.75 shipping Rock Auto)

Tires on hold for now, I think I will wait until I'm finish installing above / do more research. Also, I was not able to find 20mm rear bushings w/ zerk fittings for the rear sway bar, only 20.5 mm, but they seem to be in good shape, so I will hold off.

Edit: Updated with prices and P/N's (hopefully it helps others to build / price out their own systems)
Do you think this prothane bracket would work for the RSB brackets?

P/N 19-1163

See page 8 for some dimentions.
11-03-2012 12:46 PM
yomanwill Finally got around to getting alignment done...Let's play a game. Can you spot the mistake(s)?

Talked to the service adviser about the the numbers being way off. He said it was because the car was lowered. I didn't feel like giving a trig lesson and walked out.

Maybe I'm reading it wrong. Maybe because the tech tech knew that the camber caster could not be adjusted he didn't hook up the sensors and only worked on the toe. The impression I got was that they thought it was measured correctly all the way around.

They noted that left rear toe adjustment was seized, that's why they didn't adjust it.
09-11-2012 11:27 AM
RAF_S197 Gotcha. Thanks
09-11-2012 08:54 AM
Originally Posted by RAF_S197 View Post
Will that 08-2011 seat work with the frpp kit which has the 2006 springs?

the spring on the right is for our car specifically. the one on the left is upside down so the narrow side would go at the bottom. ford changed the shape of the springs 3 times with the c170 chassis
09-11-2012 01:44 AM
Originally Posted by blueflow94 View Post
dont use that seat. that is for the 06-07 spring. use the seat that comes with your car which looks like this.

Will that 08-2011 seat work with the frpp kit which has the 2006 springs?
09-06-2012 01:54 PM
RAF_S197 I'm running the frpp kit for 06-07 on mu 2009 and I'm getting a metal to metal sounding clunk while driving at under 40 miles an hour. Any idea what this could be?
Here is a pic of my top strut bolt. I believe it's on all the way tight.

Here is a picture of the stance. Perfect for a DD IMO.

07-31-2012 10:41 PM
Originally Posted by yomanwill View Post
The HR springs have “tight” or small coils on both ends and the Ford has a tight wrap on one end and a large wrap on the other.

which would have fit on your car but thats fine too. can't help you on the rear though. poly is good, just don't use it on your engine mount unless you want vibrations
07-31-2012 08:07 PM
yomanwill Well between vacation and the wrong parts I got somewhat delayed, but I have made some progress. I made this chart to help me understand all of the changes, hopefully it is right:

I returned the H&R springs (08’ to 11’) and went and got Ford M-5560-ZXM1 (06’ to 07’) racing springs they are actually meant to go with a different damper set (see image). The HR springs have “tight” or small coils on both ends and the Ford has a tight wrap on one end and a large wrap on the other.

Day 1
Worked put in the brakes, no big issue. I then took a crack at the front sway bar. The swaybar bushing bolts were seized. All I had was some hand tools and an impact. I was able to fit the hand tools in, but could not get enough leverage. I went through the top of the engine 3/8" impact, with the longest extension bar, and a swivel but still could not get it. I was unprepared for the amount for rust and seized bolts. Shelved for another day and moved on to the next item.

I then started on the struts, overall pretty typical. Put the springs and dampers together, but it did not fit in the steering knuckle, the strut diameter was too small relative to the knuckle diameter. Turns out I was sent a “M-18000-ZX3” kit and not a “M-18000-ZX3-B” . So I put the old strut back in, dissembled the new one and got the correct dampers sent.

Day 2
Sway bar: Gave it some PB blaster (did nothing). I then dropped the subframe as far as the power steering lines would let me. This gave me enough hand tool access / leverage. The subframe has access holes on the bottom, I lit up my torch and heated up the nut and was able to break the bolts free. This burnt up the bushings, but I had new poly’s anyway. I also put the front struts in.

I then moved to the rear. The rear sway bar came off with an impact in less than 10 min, but the rear pinch bolt that holds the lower control arm only came part of the way out. So, now I’m stuck I can burn the bushing out and press in ploy’s, use an air hammer to “push” the bolt out, but risk damaging the bushing, or get new lower control arms.

This is where I need some input. I hear that the Focus has “passive” rear steering. How does it work? Any options on the rear control arm? I don’t think I want to go poly on a single part of the suspension. Also, my driver side trailing arm bushing is squeaking, I was going to ignore it, but it will only get more difficult with time. Again, keep the rubber or go poly?
06-28-2012 01:29 PM
st12131 that explains why my "lift" spacers only gave me .5", I'm using 1st Gen springs. I should get the extra .25" when I swap to your old SES setup!
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