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Thread: MK3 2012 Focus - Oil Change 101 Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 10:42 PM
JoshuaCurrie Thanks for the helpful pics and walkthrough because my 2014 focus is almost due for an oil change. Almost 5k put on it in 2 months. The dealership changed it before I bought it at 45K. I was feeling kinda overwhelmed but not now on my oil change. Thanks.
Yesterday 10:36 PM
sailor Haha - don't screw it in without wrench in hand to tighten it.

Cheaper to dump oil out the hole by trying to fill it without a plug than have it come out later.
Yesterday 10:08 PM
Arco-Zakus Even as simple as it is, you still have to stay focused. ;) Simple errors (like a drain plug left finger tight) can have big consequences. (That is not one I had to learn about first hand.)
Yesterday 08:55 PM
mukti
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arco-Zakus View Post
Yes. Continue doing your own oil changes if at all possible.
Now that I've seen how simple it is, I fully intend to [emoji2]
Yesterday 07:51 PM
Arco-Zakus
Quote:
Originally Posted by mukti View Post
... Should I do anything about this? ...
Yes. Continue doing your own oil changes if at all possible.
Yesterday 02:49 PM
sailor Better to ask than wonder.

More oil on the filter could have been a loose one, seeping a little. The amount I saw matched sloppy lube of the ring, you DO want lube done for better installation/easier removal.

Don't like mangled bolt heads of any type myself, that one shouldn't cause a problem from the appearance.
Yesterday 11:07 AM
mukti Okay, probably just my inexperience with cars is making me more worried than I should be. Thanks!
Yesterday 10:42 AM
sailor The "covered in oil" pictured (dirty at the edge) is prob. from the oil wiped on the sealing ring when installing a new filter. Take a finger full & slop it on would be typical, no need to precisely apply the oil so none drips to the outside of the ring.

For commercial oil changes, drain bolts are a disposable item. Depending on car brand/policies of the company they can be replaced at every change. (one outfit I know replaces all Ford & Honda ones at each change)

As long as it holds until the next change, it's done it's job as far as they may be concerned. If you're unhappy enough, they might just give you a new one to make you happy.

Oil color is hard to tell at a glance, fresh can vary quite a bit by brand/type & used is supposed to be dirty when it's doing it's job. What I see on the side of the pan looks like normal dirty oil.
Yesterday 09:52 AM
mukti When I got my oil changed at the dealership for the first time (free one from purchasing the car), the oil seemed dark when I looked at it immediately after the change. Since it was a dealership, I assumed I could trust that they changed it. I'm out changing my oil with my father's help, and when we started to drain the oil, he said it looked much darker than it should (I'm a bit over 10k miles, and the first oil change was at 5k). There were a few other oddities we found, like the filter was covered in oil. It didn't look like it was leaking, since the felt panel didn't have anything on it, but there was a layer of oil coating the filter... I just assume they did a sloppy job.



When we went to unscrew the plug, we noticed that it seemed to have been tightened far tighter than it should have been; and again, the oil was super dark. The plug looks like it might have been slightly stripped as well




We didn't slip at all when we were unscrewing the plug, so we know we didn't do this. Are these always like this, or was it likely stripped by the dealership?

Should I do anything about this? Would the dealership do anything?
Yesterday 09:41 AM
block Yep...Chrysler dealer didn't put my wife's Caravan's air filter on right one time and it was likely them who lost one of the clips that hold the air cover on.

Has anyone noticed rust underneath when changing their oil? I'm not sure what it's called, but there is a frame member along the back end of the "felt" engine bay cover (under the back of the firewall in other words).

That frame member is getting very rusty along its front edge. I bought my car just as winter was starting in 2013, but did not drive it until Spring, so it saw almost no salt that year. When I did the first oil change summer of 2014, it was already rusting. I'll likely keep this car at least 10 years and it will be extremely rusty if I don't do something now. I bought black semi-glass Rust-Oleum...
I figure this won't be covered under warrantee (right?).

The "felt" engine bay cover stays wet (I washed mine and it definitely absorbs water). It surely absorbs/holds salty water for days on end in the winter against the metal. The screws and felt under them were still salty from winter (as of a week ago when I changed the oil and washed the screws and felt).
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