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Thread: Replace master cylinder clutch Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-18-2014 09:23 AM
sailor Yes, same location & operation.
11-18-2014 08:22 AM
South03SVT This applies to the SVTs as well correct? My cmc is leaking and needs replaced.
11-16-2014 04:52 PM
eyycox I did the Clutch Master Cylinder on my 2003 SVTF thanks to you all and the info this thread (and the Ford Workshop Manual) it went off without a hitch! Here are my notes:

Start with fluid down to the 'min' mark

No need to take the battery out: popping out the air box and unmounting the fuse box is enough

As others have said, a pick with a 90 bend at the end is the perfect tool for popping the wire clips from the connectors. Take a look at your new CMC and notice the groove you can fit your pick into that sits under the middle/top of the wire clip (top is oriented towards the driver side). I was able to get them in a few minutes. Don't worry if they shoot off somewhere because as others have said, you never take out the wire clips on the new CMC so no chance to loose them: you just snap in the lines with them in place. Top (input) hose line popped out immediately. I didn't have any rust on the bottom (output) connector, and it came loose after a bit of tugging.

After taking the four sensors off, I followed the workshop manual to remove the entire clutch/break pedal assembly. I think it is easier than NotoriousOne's instructions since you can swap the CMC at the workbench. I found it easier to first remove the four bolts holding the assembly on before removing the break pedal locking tang (white plastic pin at the break pedal pivot). Note this is the opposite order from the workshop manual.

At the bench it took a bit of tapping to get the new CMC to line up with the bolt holes. I left the clutch spring installed and just held the clutch pedal down a bit as I tapped the CMC to get it to line up.

I bench bled the CMC next. I followed the instructions that came with my Craftsman Professional Brake Bleeder Kit (supposedly identical to MityVac MV8500) which basically says after filling with fluid to vaccum on each of the two ports while the other is plugged. I never got any bubbles out of it, so I don't think I effectively did anything other than fill it with fluid. Maybe its more important on other/older CMC designs? I used a couple rubber stoppers from the kit until I was ready to bolt the assy back in place. The ports angle up slightly when the CMC is installed so with a bit of luck you won't spill much when you take the stoppers out.

Reversing the removal to install the pedal assembly went smoothly, and the fluid line connectors snapped in easily

Now I thought the fun would start--the bleeding process. A lot of people mentioned they used a MityVac, but I think most are using it on vacuum. As bboyjamin mentioned, the workshop manual says to pressure pump UP from the bleeder. Someone else mentioned trying this and had trouble with the hose popping off the pump once pressure builds up. I experienced this too, but I was able to get around it by opening up the bleeder further and holding the hose on. I also vacuum pumped until the line to the pump was all fluid first.

I started pumping and to my surprise it actually worked and fluid in the reservoir started rising. I stopped when it reach the max (a couple 100 ML I think). I then tightened the bleeder with an open end wrench as best I could (a bit of a squeeze since I didn't remove the battery), and then I removed the hose. I had the valve closed enough that a drop of fluid was sitting in the valve so I knew air wasn't going in or fluid was leaking out. I then torqued the bleeder back to spec

Tested the clutch and never felt better! With this method, bleeding was super easy and I got it on the first try--no 20 minutes of pumping the clutch or using tons of fluid like others have described. Keep in mind that the cheaper plastic MityVac can only vacuum, it cannot pressure pump, so you'll have to spring another $20 and get the metal one.

Here are torque numbers from the workshop manual:

9 Nm for CMC bolts (x2) (11 mm socket I think)
23 Nm for Pedal Assembly bolts (x4) (13 mm socket)
21 Nm for Bleed nipple (10 mm socket I think)

Good luck!
02-04-2014 03:07 PM
squbbles1228 Nice how to! I think this may be what is wrong with my little Pepper.... i got an 05 focus ZX4 St model and she is pitch black... she has over 200k miles on her and i aint letting go of her so easy! back when it got cold outside i had to clean my throttle body cuz the cold weather made it have that sticky kinda feelin... but none the less i got that fixed and i recently replaced both of my fog light bulbs... and i did it all by myself! And i am a female... but i dont mind to get my hands dirty and greasy! Im a tom boy kinda gal... but i can clean up perty nice! anyways, some guys like it that im a rare breed lol and others are intimidated lol but i dont intend on being intimidating... i just like to work on my own stuff so that i know it gets done the right way... the only one i trusted with my cars was my daddy and he is gone since april of 2013.. so im glad he taught me all the things he did teach me! This is a very good how to! I come here for all my issues... thanks for being there and making these threads!!!! Yall have a wonderful day! And wish me luck on getting my little Pepper going...
01-19-2014 12:40 AM
bostonman This is the new Dorman SMC with metal rod (The older Dorman unit seems to be all plastic - still sell on ebay though):

Planning to use this instead of the all plastic one.

11-28-2013 01:26 PM
Free Play in clutch pedal

I just replaced my cmc and I am grateful NotoriousOne had posted his. I used a Dorman brand which has a metal housing. I wanted to get away from the plastic ones. Neverless installation went pretty good. My issue was bleeding. Tried pump method, then the mityvac which was better but still getting air bubbles. So I broke out the vacuum pump and had my son help me. This worked the best for me, just had to keep an eye on reservoir. Fluid was moving through system pretty fast. Did this until fluid was clean, but was hard to tell if all of the air bubbles were gone. Since the pump was pulling it out so fast. My question is there is some free play in clutch pedal. I don't remember if it was there before repair. Did a test drive and everything seems good. I might try and hand bleed it now.
07-19-2013 01:59 PM
Originally Posted by Notorious0ne View Post

Thanks to Oblivion

He gave a quick overview of some the tools you will need to do the procedure.
You're welcome.

And thanks for the tutorial! Although mine wasn't just a quick overview.
It was another 'how to' and I figured it wasn't necessary to create a third walk through to be put in the "HOW TO" archives.
07-19-2013 01:50 PM

Thanks to Oblivion

He gave a quick overview of some the tools you will need to do the procedure.
03-21-2013 10:29 PM
Notorious0ne Happy I could help guys!
03-21-2013 08:38 AM
akram1027 Good Hell I wish i would've looked for this before doing mine did it in the dark started at six finally finished around ten.... holy sh!t!

Sent from my PC36100 using FF Mobile
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