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Thread: MK3 2012 Focus - Oil Change 101 Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 07:36 AM
okaythen
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
Coolant testers have been around forever, range from a pocket size with floating balls to larger ones with floating discs or floating lever/gauge.

Quite similar to battery hydrometers.

If the system hasn't had water/coolant added at any time it should be fine for freeze point/boil over protection.
I added some distill water when the coolant level was low, I guess I will get the coolant tester then! found one on amazon....convenient that those things exist, I got a lot to learn.

thanks so much for the replies
Yesterday 01:56 PM
sailor Coolant testers have been around forever, range from a pocket size with floating balls to larger ones with floating discs or floating lever/gauge.

Quite similar to battery hydrometers.

If the system hasn't had water/coolant added at any time it should be fine for freeze point/boil over protection.
Yesterday 05:26 AM
okaythen
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
"Cabin's engine oil & coolant temp"?

Not even close I'm afraid.

Coolant "strength" would refer to the coolant concentration as tested (tool that sucks out a sample to measure concentration/freeze point from the reservoir).

MANY hoses between engine, radiator, reservoir & heater to check.

BTW - a Dealer won't check everything thoroughly, they just look for obvious problems & do basic checks.
tool that sucks a sample to measure from reservoir.....I see I see, do you guys have/use that tool? is this kinda new thing? I don't recall that they have a tool like that, but older cars you change coolant much more often than our 100k miles. (I guess you can kind of skip this step? and just keep eye on the coolant level and coolant temp, oil temp? or no)

I should look up a diagram that shows which hose is which and whatever are under the hood, pretty sure it's out there somewhere.

thanks!
04-27-2016 04:36 PM
sailor "Cabin's engine oil & coolant temp"?

Not even close I'm afraid.

Coolant "strength" would refer to the coolant concentration as tested (tool that sucks out a sample to measure concentration/freeze point from the reservoir).

MANY hoses between engine, radiator, reservoir & heater to check.

BTW - a Dealer won't check everything thoroughly, they just look for obvious problems & do basic checks.
04-27-2016 01:36 PM
okaythen for "Inspect engine cooling system strength and
hoses." the cooling system strength you check cabin's engine oil and engine coolant temp right? and check coolant level. but for coolant system hoses I see the hose from the reservoir and that's it. where are the rest? or is the inspection ok for that one only?
04-27-2016 10:41 AM
okaythen
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arco-Zakus View Post
Oh, nooooo! You just destroyed your whole engine! (I make sure to clean off my funnel before using it after it's been sitting around.)



You could go to a dealer service department and ask them for a list of the things they check when they do that. Or check youtube. Keep in mind that the list can vary from one car to another. One of those videos shows the tech checking power steering fluid, which doesn't apply for our cars with electric power assisted steering (EPAS). We just have to make shure we have enough electrons.



Best thing to do is get a repair manual and study it. You'll get an idea from that what each of those parts does so you'll know what to look for.

An example is the rubber boots on axle ("half-shaft") joints, which are there to contain the grease inside and keep the dirt out. If the rubber cracks or tears then the grease leaks out, usually flung around the nearby area by the spinning of the axle. Even if you cannot easily see the damage to the boot, if you see the grease stuck to anything nearby you know the damage is there somewhere.

You can also search for videos on youtube for each of the listed parts.
hey thanks so much that was helpful, yeah youtube is great, have been watching some videos. thanks!
04-27-2016 02:04 AM
Arco-Zakus
Quote:
Originally Posted by okaythen View Post
I preloaded the new oil filter with a funnel, didn't see anything dirty in the funnel but it might have some small dirt/dust/etc that eyes can't see, funnel was inside a plastic bag but crap might still gotten in since it was sitting there for 1.5 years.....already finished changing oil so should be ok or? ...
Oh, nooooo! You just destroyed your whole engine! (I make sure to clean off my funnel before using it after it's been sitting around.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by okaythen View Post
... Perform multi-point inspection. (what's this? can't find more info in the manual) ...
You could go to a dealer service department and ask them for a list of the things they check when they do that. Or check youtube. Keep in mind that the list can vary from one car to another. One of those videos shows the tech checking power steering fluid, which doesn't apply for our cars with electric power assisted steering (EPAS). We just have to make shure we have enough electrons.

Quote:
Originally Posted by okaythen View Post
... I am not really sure what some of those things are, and inspection what do you look for? just anything unusual I guess? leaks cracks or whatever. Can't ignore those huh gotta figure out which thing is which and inspect all of them?
Best thing to do is get a repair manual and study it. You'll get an idea from that what each of those parts does so you'll know what to look for.

An example is the rubber boots on axle ("half-shaft") joints, which are there to contain the grease inside and keep the dirt out. If the rubber cracks or tears then the grease leaks out, usually flung around the nearby area by the spinning of the axle. Even if you cannot easily see the damage to the boot, if you see the grease stuck to anything nearby you know the damage is there somewhere.

You can also search for videos on youtube for each of the listed parts.
04-26-2016 08:54 PM
sailor Surprised the thousand page manual to describe all the electronics doesn't mention the basics of cleaning/lube etc. anymore, that's the way it goes I guess.

Locks should theoretically have a dry graphite lube (sometimes in liquid form where the liquid evaporates). I end up using WD40 up north here, seems to help prevent icing as well.

Hinges/pivots I moved from the old white lith grease spray to newer "penetrating grease" spray cans. Gets in where it can do more good before setting up and not as messy. Even use it for a quick grease of clean battery terminals to prevent corrosion.

99% silicone for rubber items (door seals etc.) like Castle brand. Cheap versions aren't as pure and don't last long (perfectly safe to the touch as well with the good stuff). Roll windows down & try to get it all on the seals, clean any overspray off teh glass afterwards. Windows/doors work smoother and it extends the life of the rubber items.

Yes, for other items you look for the obvious. Sometimes you can catch wear where things rub and reroute/pad as needed before they have an issue (wires & hoses). Brake pads can be seen to check thickness, better to get familiar B4 you're looking at the backing alone & think that's remaining pad material!
04-26-2016 08:22 PM
okaythen hmmm lube locks/hinges/pivots they don't have it in the manual, but pretty sure it's necessary, WD40 is good right?

checking belts/hoses, just look if any crack in the belts, too loose ? the same for hoses crack, tear, connections etc?
04-26-2016 07:22 PM
sailor Yup, oil change time is a good excuse to catch up on checking things over, when else do you get a chance to peek underneath in detail?

Even though you don't expect to see anything wrong yet, it's a good time to learn where the pieces are and what they should look like.

The chore can expand with other maint. done at the same time, this is also a good time to lube locks/hinges/pivots and treat weather stripping/window seals. General check includes all fluids/belts/hoses etc.. You end up developing a routine for a quick check of things as you move around the car.
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