|Yesterday 10:03 PM|
You risk a serious leak by not using a gasket, the old rubber seal often is hard and having been flattened and then cooked into that shape it will NOT properly rebound to seal again. Or, asking for trouble there. Why the paper gasket is supplied, cheaper and if you leave the rubber double o-ring seal in place the paper easily seals that. Silicone by itself could too if put on competently but you see the problem there.......... You can make one up for like 50 cents from gasket material, I make all mine. Make the holes intentionally a little small to where the bolts have to screw in and you even have bolt holders to hold bolts in place while you reinstall part. I always install with top bolt missing and bottom in place, get threads well started and then part held well enough the top bolt goes in easy. Five minute max job there. On and off in ten.
If you get solvent/carb cleaner in the vacuum diaphragm that is in these you can kiss part goodbye. Diaphragm is located at the rolled press seam, why part has to have a vent breather on it. Depending on where the idle air is available, the IAC may not move at all at idle and could be fine. It is when the unknowing move things like throttle plate stop and other things to make the idle air different when IAC is older and carboned up shaft that the problems begin. The valve cannot move easily against shaft deposits when they are heavy and any change you make requiring a big change in distance then screws you. Why you never mess with butterfly setting even though one is there.
|Yesterday 03:47 PM|
|diyengineer||Sounds like my problem.|
|11-23-2014 12:15 AM|
|11-22-2014 01:27 PM|
|diyengineer||Sounds like that is what my problem is, doesnt idle worth crap, turn AC on car dies.|
|05-29-2014 10:33 PM|
Yes....there is: Quick, Easy IAC Fix
|01-29-2014 12:11 PM|
I've never seen any test suggestions on this forum. It's not an on/off valve, so the conventional test of applying 12v won't reveal much. Many of us just grab TB cleaner + a handful of Qtips, clean the living hell out of it, and then cross our fingers.
|01-28-2014 06:38 PM|
I found the answer for the gasket and it looks like whoever installed my motor half assed it and just made a gasket with some silicone stuff! I found the part number and pic for the actual OEM gasket. "Motorcraft CG-756 Idle Control Valve Gasket"
Still need to know how to test the IAC while off the manifold.
|01-28-2014 06:32 PM|
Diggin this up from the dead... I removed my IAC and it looked like there wasnt a paper gasket on there as someone mentioned previously on this thread. Looks like 2 rubber O rings maybe and some liquid/flexible gasket maker type stuff. So my question is do I need to make a gakset or go buy one from the dealer? Also is there a way to test to make sure the IAC is even good before I put it back in since its a pain to get out. When I plug it in and turn the car on I dont see the plunger inside do anything but stay open about 1/16".
Getting it out was easy using a ratcheting closed 8mm wrench and a mirror to help with the top bolt. Getting it back on I know will be a PIA!!!!
|11-20-2013 01:36 PM|
just an update I forgot i deleted that photo bucket account and i no longer have the pics.. I'm sorry everyone. plus i no longer own my focus…
|09-14-2013 12:02 AM|
|amc49||I don't hesitate to take that coating off and never had any corrosion issues ever............been doing it for years on metal TBs. Maybe the cleaner there was suspect, a strong alkali soap would produce that effect and quick. I use acetone and I guarantee the coating is gone almost instantly.|
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