|02-04-2017 11:16 AM|
Getting into multiple questions unrelated to the high idle there, new thread of your own to get deep into it would be better.
HVAC system uses a blend door to control how much worm or cool air comes in, heater core is ALWAYS hot even in summer. A/C core is only cold when that's working, and A/C checks are another subject once you get past whether it works at all with the compressor running intermittently as normal.
Normal heat doesn't blast you with hot anywhere, the multiple outlets spread it around too much. Dash, under dash, under seats for the rear area. For the hottest air a low fan setting works in cold weather, blast a lot of cold air through from outside and it doesn't get a chance to warm up while moving through the heater.
Max setting for heat is normal for short trips, on longer ones I end up moving it down - sometimes to just above the center position. But 3/4 to full is the Winter starting position for local driving. Fan on 2 unless I need to defrost hard, and initially that won't be hot air. Fan on 1 after driving a while & the car gets warm, I prefer the low flow of hot air to a lot of cooler air.
|02-04-2017 09:35 AM|
When i say lack of heat, lets mention that in my Subaru, i just can't leave the heat to maximum while cruising, ill be cooking... But in the Focus, if i want to have some confort, it needs to be set at Max and Power blower level (at least).
I might also add that i have no cool air either in the summer. Could the lack of heat/cool air relates to (low/poor) Prestone level????
|02-03-2017 01:55 PM|
Temperatures or temperature reports from the sensor so low as to affect idle speed would be quite unusual. Even though it's an 'idiot' gauge, the temp gauge should be low at that point.
You still should check the actual reported engine temps as a first step, either with a scan tool or by using the 'test mode' of the odometer.
|02-03-2017 11:58 AM|
|Byron King||Never heard of a thermostat making a high idle, but you never know. When did this start? High idle is typically caused by a vacuum leak. As for the heat, check your antifreeze level. Can't tell you how many people have brought in a car with the "heater broken", but in reality they had so little antifreeze it worries me to know it was being drove.|
|02-03-2017 09:38 AM|
Hi to all, mine (2005 ZXW) also has the high idle (and the reduced fuel efficiency).
Ive read in that thread that:
- if your heater is not as efficient as it should be (it is as i had to settle it to the highest warm position to get some acceptably hot air);
- and if you have a high idle;
It could be the thermostat.
Any one to second that? How hard is is to change the thermostat?
|01-09-2017 12:11 AM|
There is commonly a seal around the throttle shaft inboard, but if it has gone bad then the outer dust seal o-ring for the TPS can be the stopper of a minor vacuum leak there.
Lots of people clean the TBs with solvent and then those inner seals swell up from solvent exposure, working the TB at that time can easily tear/shred the seal since exposure also makes it much softer too. When I clean one I wait 24 hrs before moving it. Zero issue then, the solvent being a VOC evaporates over time to then leave the seal pretty much like it was before.
If you yank TB with no gasket change..............well, often a mistake, the gasket takes a set and no way does it reseal like before. I don't care how good it looks.
|01-08-2017 03:13 PM|
|charliebrownboy||Thank you for reply. I did exactly the same as mine was also cracked allowing a vacume leak. I have since sold the vehicle.|
|01-08-2017 03:26 AM|
2006 Focus idle issue solved
Just went through all this. Started when I cleaned the throttle body...No vacuum leaks, but found the Throttle Position Sensor broke on the side.
Replaced throttle body with sensor attached, now works fine.
|11-20-2015 01:15 AM|
If you get a tune from Tom doesnt the "ECU learning" thing get turned off?
I just started having issues after changing my battery also, it was going on 5 years and before i started having any issues i just replaced it because i know these cars are bad for burning up alternators.
I thought my IAC was causing problems so i unhooked it but i still had issues. It wouldnt start correctly when it was cold but with it unhooked the idle wouldnt jump around like it had been.
I have an AEM A/F gauge installed in my exhaust and i notice when the car revs up during idle my gauge is showing lean. It goes from normal where it bounces around 14.7 down to around 12
Ive cleaned my IAC, MAF, and the Throttle body. First was the IAC then put it back in but i never thought about the gunk running down into the IAC i may need to check it again.
I wonder about the TPS though, how long do those things go before they need cleaned or replaced?
|02-04-2015 06:25 PM|
|Nmarzoli04||Poked around a bit tonight and found that the TPS was a little loose on the TB. Think that could be it?|
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